watkins

Damnit.. I seem to always have some sort of stupid problem like this... the treads on my case are stripped where the drain plug goes in... unscrewed my plug before my last trip and 1/2 the threads came out with it... I ended up just coving the thing in lock-tight and screwing it back in (feels like only 2 treads are holding it in) and prayed! Didnt leak.. whew.. now.. I have 2 Weeks until New Years, how can I get this fixed?

I got mine through modquad... its nice insurance... even though the aluminum ones look better I hear the plastic ones protect much better (thats what I have).

So What do you all think? Can i get by with this frame after I tweak it back into place? I really dont have the time right now to get a new frame and get it up and running by new years.

I'd go to Glamis if I were you, Ocotillo was great this past weekend, but it will be a dust bowl on New Years.

I will give it a shot wallrat, thanks for the tip. Just hope hope hope hope to get it all fixed by New Years.

Welll... good news is the motor isnt blowing up anymore.. the bike is running good... bad news it that the shee decided to practice gymnastics today and thought it would be fun to do about 5 cartwheels. DIdnt really mess me up too bad.. i got thrown outa the way.... however the subframe is alll jacked up, I'd rather not mess with it myself unless its pretty simple how much would you think a shop would charge to straighten out the frame? I know i can get a good frame off ebay for less than $300... also.. the front plastics are not fitting really good... possibly frame damage there as well???? A-Arms look good, no cracks or bends. Thought the front right shock was toast.. but must have just been fade because after a while it built up resistance again..... anything else I should check? The bike seems to ride straight still.. I fired it right back up and rode it back to camp. I will get some pics tomorrow.. tonight i think in gonna take a hot bath.

Our group will be off gecko probably near pad 3 if there are spots available, otherwise look for my tundra stuck in the sand off gecko, Ill drive in until I get stuck and thats where I will setup camp.

I'd just be a little cautious if there is any timing advance. I was at 156 with my 21cc domes but also had +4 timing.

Well.. Im not sure about that. I was running 21cc domes at sea level and destroyed a set of pistons because I detonating on pump gas. I think it really depends on each bike and the elevation that they are at. I now run 50/50 race gas with my 21cc domes.

Whats the best way to check for airleaks besides using a leakdown tester? I have tried spraying start fluid and break cleaner all over the carbs, boots and cylinders and didnt notice a change in RPM.... is this the best way? I just dont want to drive all the way out to glamis this weekend to have her fall apart on me in like 2 min again.. like i said I did ride it a few weeks ago but never was in the High RPM ranges ever.... just trying to save myself some pissed off time out in the dunes. Also, I did install a temp gauge on the bike, if its running lean will that be apparent at all on the temp gauge? Will she heat up faster and hotter? or will she just go *poof*. So no thoughts on the throttle sticking? Could that be caused by and air leak? It only does it when hitting the powerband.. 0-1/2 throttle its fine.

Well.. revisting this one again. Bike is all back together, went riding 2 weeks ago.. seemed to be fine.. however i never got to open her up... the jackasses that were leading wanted to go 10mph the whole time (what a waste of a trip) so im still a little concerned since I am heading out to mother glamis next weekend. I tore the bike down completly and its all rebuilt. The last trip to be safe I jetted up (340 mains) and ran 50/50 race gas.... think i will be ok? Would it have blown up regardless of the rpm range if detonation was going on or if a air leak was present? I checked for airleaks by spraying it down with starter fluid.. seemed fine, but i dont have a leakdown tester to be safe. Only other thing that is in the back of my mind is that the throttle has been sticking bad the last 2 trips i have taken the bike out. It will stick whenever I hit the powerband and the only way to get it back is to blip the throttle. Cleaned the carbs good before the last 2 trips as well.... maybe a little sanding and lube is in order.. dont know if this is related to the blowing up issue or not.

Think i can get by without the o-ring? Was the first mod i ever did to the banshee so it probably got pinched during installation? Think if i just re-use it and put a nice layer of silicon on the rest of the adapter?

Hey all. I have been thinking about getting a toyhauler before my trip to glamis next week. Dont really know anything about them.. there is a dealership right by me that sells Coachmen, Keystone and Northwoods (never heard of either). What i am wanting is something in the 21' range, with all the goodies (water, toilet/shower, ac, generator) What should I be looking for in regards to water capacity and stuff? Also what can I expect to pay new fully loaded? Any help would be great. I know weekend warrior has a dealership around me but its like an hour drive and I hear they are overpriced.

bump.

Have some downtime until my next ride so I am going over everything on the bike. In the process I pulled the Prodesign flange out of the airbox and noticed that the o-ring was completly destroyed... only that probably saved me was the fact that I put silicon all over the flange before installation (but then again my bike has been blowing up a bunch latley).... so my question is where the heck do I get a replacment o-ring? I checked prodesigns website and they do not list it.

I run them and I like them, but they are a little bit of a pain to install the silencers with the stock airbox. I havent tried the toomey's yet, but the SST's pull really good bottom to top. Some say they dont respond to porting well and some say they kick ass with porting.. its a tough call but I am glad I did it. Fattys are great as well and cost less.

What does that mean? How did you break it?

Well.. got her all back together and went riding this weekend. Seems good so far, didnt run it in the high RPM's much like I normally do, so its hard to say if the issue is resolved. I was runing 50/50 race gas and jetted rich (340 on the mains). I also installed one of the heatseeker temp gauges and it never got into the red, however it did come close. What temp. would be considered getting hot on a banshee, I am running engine ice and also installed a billet water impeller and just cant understand why it would be getting towards the red on the temp gauge unless the temp gauge coloring is inaccurate.

You should still check the gap even though you didnt remove it. If you dont have a feeler gauge just use a match book cover thats pretty close. Its really simple, just take the cover off that side of the case and check it, and if its off just adjust it. It should only take 5min to do.

Thanks for all the help guys. Going to be putting it all back together tonight + tomorrow, so I should have it all up and running before the weekend. My only concern at this point (besides the detonation/overheating issue) is that when I put the tranny back together last night, it would shift up & down but would get stuck everyonce in a while in between gears, should this clear up once there is oil in the cases?

Ok now i am confused, maybe you can help out a little bit. Went to go get some replacement pistons, and am really confused. When I was out at the dunes they bored it .20 over. Now when I go to the dealership they say that there isnt such a thing and that it goes .25, .50, .75, 1.0, 1.25 etc. I called two places and they said the same exact thing.... am I missing a conversion or something?

Havent ridden it like this, but put the shifter back on and it shifts really hard. And when shifting it with the cases split to check everything out it gets stuck in between shifts 1/2 the time. Dont know if it will work better when sitting in oil or not

Having some issues reassembling the tranny after splitting the cases for the first time, things seem OK until I get to the part where I need to install the spring and gear stopper thingy up against the shift star... you will see the picture below, it was a pain in the ass to get it in there like that, but its butted up against the shift star so it takes a ton of force to shift gears... any thoughts on what I am doing wrong.. my clymers doesnt really show anything.

Well.. buddy of mine who thinks he is the all knowing banshee god is saying that +4 timing is way too much for a non-ported bike. I told him to suck it and that he didnt know what he is talking about... any thoughts, I know a lot of you run +4 with no porting.. just want to be safe is all.

Well.. going to be splitting the cases tonight, but I pulled the impeller out and it looks fine, I replaced it anyways so I dont have to worry about it again. So I dont really see how the bike could have overheated, I was running straight engine ice and the impeller seems to work fine. So I am leaning towards detonation, but the cause is driving me nuts. I guess I will get it put all back together and run 50/50 race gas with way rich jetting just to see what happens. Only mods I did before this trip was a coolhead and replaced the needles with dynojet needles and put them on the 4th clip from the blunt end (which is richer than I had the stockers on). So I dont think its a jetting issue.