BigRed350x

Are you trying to go to the outside of your frame rail down there by the engine? The lower hose goes to the bottom of the radiator and the upper hose goes to the top of the radiator. If the old hose and the new hose are the same length, and the old one fit,then you're doing something funky. - Jared

If you are running pump gas I would start off with +4. +10 is pretty high on pump gas. Have you had any signs of detonation? What do your pistons look like? - Jared

I don't think you know what upp intakes are... check out cascadeinnovations.net and you can find them under the intakes section. - Jared

? ? Is typing a full sentence just too time consuming for people now-a-days? If you are asking if the crank has any play in the rods, the answer is no.

LOL!

The lower mounts are there to prevent the engine from twisting in the frame. You can just loosen up the two 14mm bolts that hold the lower mounts to the frame up in front of the engine, then tighten up your lower engine mounts, then tighten the two bolts up front. Loosen the two bolts that go front to back, not the ones that go left-right. - Jared

He is quite the douche. See his other thread, where he is getting bashed quite regularly.

Someone get a chicken dinner for that man.

I have a 2-5 override with neutral in the stock position cut by WCR and a 2-5 neutral down transmission cut by tim @ titan racing. I will sell you either one if you want something to look at to try and duplicate yourself. - Jared

2.86 I think that's the stock ratio. Can't remember, brain fart.

Cheap and banshee's do not go together. Sad day.

Check out arctic cat coils too, they fit the stock location and have a little hotter output if you're looking for a cheap upgrade. - Jared

I've got a set of upp intakes that will fit 38-41mm carbs. $50 shipped to your door. PM me if you'd like them. - Jared

Its not 2005 any more champ...

Good prices! Bump for Jeff.

PM Sent. - Jared

Bump for a great seller!

I'm not sure what the clip is for, but the way I figure is the little jap engineers who originally designed the RZ engine probably had a use for it, so I leave it in there. haha! Maybe its something that was needed on the old RZ engines or maybe the bearing in the RZ engine didn't have the clip on the outer race, so this little moon-shaped bracket was used to hold the bearing in place. I've built them with and without this clip and it doesn't see to make any difference. - Jared

Boost-Bottle Fail. Offer him $1700 and see what he has to say. Tell him the shitty boost-bottles crack the intakes and don't give any performance gain whatsoever. Tell him the fact that he has a boost bottle on it detracts from its value and makes you worry about what other things are wrong with it. lol

This is the crank I purchased from sheefreak. I pulled it out of the box, cleaned it up, took some pics and boxed it back up. Just decided to go a different direction. Its a forged 10mil crank, has a TZ bearing on the PTO side, and a maxload-style bearing on the stator side. Crank is fully welded inside and out. I'm selling it for the same price I bought it for, +$25 for shipping. Flywheel taper is in good shape, all threads are good. $425 shipped. Thanks - Jared

Yes, you can. Just use a short enough bolt that the end of the bolt doesn't protrude into the slide area and hold the slide open. Put a little bit of teflon on the threads to seal the bolt you're using to plug the hole and just drill/tap on the correct side. - Jared

rich1068, you fail at for sale.

I would contact the wheel manufacturer and show them the pics and see if they can do anything to help you. Maybe get a set of wheels out of the deal... - Jared

Both are newer technology than the cheetah design, and easier to get better power numbers out of. Yes, the DM will require more case work, but will yield better results in the end. I know you're a fan of the cheetah cylinders, but when calvin himself says he would go with either of those cylinders over the cheetah, its tough to argue with.

You did not have your flywheel torqued on properly. The crank spins inside the taper on the flywheel and your key gets sheared. Follow the steps outlined in your clymer manual for torq'ing your flywheel nut & it will resolve your problem. - Jared