BigRed350x

Did you actually measure and figure out where your ackerman angle needs to be, or did you just cut the new arms with that curve in there for fun? I would also put a gusset between your new steering arm and your spindle body.

I have a 485, but run methanol. Switch to methanol and just throw the fuel at it!

Get off the haggard rocks and shit and you wouldn't need any bling bling bla bla. LOL!

Bump! who else is going to come?

Just get a clippard powerjet...

LOL I don't know, I wouldn't do it with feeler gauges. LOL You will get a sloppy reading. Using a flat tool to measure two round surfaces...

Are you using a bore gauge and calipers? Using a feeler gauge is not the best way to measure ptw clearance. The reason you need a micrometer and bore gauge is because the piston is different in size at different points of the piston. Wiseco will give you a location on the piston to measure, like 1.300" down from the ring groove, 90deg away from the wristpin (or something similar) this is the point where you need to measure the piston, then measure your bore (hope your bore is true throughout). Take the difference and divide by two. This is how I was taught to do it when I was working at PRS Machine Works. You can do it with feeler gauges, but its not as reliable as using a bore gauge and calipers.

I would go ahead and put a billet 2nd in it. I've broke teeth on gears before with a little 4mil small-block twister. It can and does happen. When it happened to me I also broke a set of cases (which already had a chain whack). The price of the billet 2nd isn't that bad compared to the time to tear down and rebuild with new cases, new transmission, gaskets, seals, etc. If you can afford the billet 2nd, do it.

Look at the shifter for the early model raptors. They had a mechanism that could be adapted to do what you're hoping to do. The difficult part will be having the shift lever on the same horizontal plane as the shift rod it attaches to. One of the reasons the streetbikes have to have the setup you're trying to duplicate is the shift rod is on a much higher plane than the shift lever. - Jared

His buddy he sent the engine too was probably in on the scam. 1. You pay him for engine 2. He ships to his friend 3. Cashes out his account, and has tracking number to give to you 4. friend ships motor back to him You got lucky and caught it before he was able to withdraw the funds. He's a scammer for sure. How do you "accidentally" ship a $2400 engine to the wrong address? What a fuck-wad. If I'm shipping something like that I tripple check the shipping address, and usually actually call and talk to the person. - Jared

Anything can be done with a little time, ingenuity, planning, and application. Build a linkage yourself and an intermediate bearing for the shifter. If you're familiar with the streetbike setup, look at one and duplicate the design. All you need is a cam lever to change up motion to down motion.

When you get the kick-start rebuild kit, buy a 2nd identical o-ring to the one in the kit. Put a small low-tension spring on the top of the kicker post and double up the o-ring on the bottom and rebuild it this way. The spring keeps tention against the kicker and prevents it from rattling, the 2nd o-ring seals up the gap that's created at the bottom of the kick-starter when you install the spring. - Jared

You do want the inside tire to turn at a slightly tighter angle than the outside tire. Think about it, the inside tire is turning on a tighter radius circle than the outside tire. The over-steer is caused by your spindles. A good starting point is that you want the distance from your KPI line at the spindle to the tie rod mounting point to be the same as the distance from the center-line of your steering shaft to the tie-rod mounting point. Increasing or decreasing this distance will effectively speed up or slow down the steering action, and increase or reduce the amount of force required to steer the bike. I would seriously suggest you do some reading on steering geometry before you go cutting and welding anything anywhere on your spindles, or steering stem. - Jared

Hey guys, I need an O-Ring kit for a cheetah cylinder. Not a cub, but the bigger cheetah. I have paypal ready. Thanks - Jared

Makes me glad my sister is a lawyer. I would take them to small-claims court in a heart-beat for that kinda BS. And I would take out ads in the local paper and any other advertisement I could and let the rest of the community know about it. - Jared

Bump for a good seller. I've bought stuff from him before, no problems. - Jared

...another one bites the dust....

Definitely remove the epoxy from the cases. The little 1/8" (approx) holes that are drilled into the case are to provide oil to the crank bearings. If the jack-ass put JB weld in there, your crank bearings were probably being starved for oil. What a pile. Good luck with it.

(Face-Palm)

Sure looks like one, or a copy...

Sure looks like one, or a copy...

Wow, digging up old threads... None of this stuff is available any more.

the wossner pistons are a single ring design, right?

I only run 927. Good stuff. I don't run anything else. - Jared

I've seen the oil channel filled in, but yours is totally ghetto. I would remove the epoxy that's in there and clean everything up and build it right. The big spacer plate / gaskets you have is probably to accomodate the large rods. - Jared