BigRed350x

Save yourself the time and get a set of mikuni carbs if you plan to swap a lot. 1 set of carbs and just change the dump tubes and needles around and you're good to go for either fuel. No harm in switching between the two, just like you said, its going to be a pain in the butt. Your timing plate will offer you plenty of adjustment for both fuels. The stock CDI box advances the timing a little bit already, so the +4, +7, +9, etc is timing added to the entire curve thats in the stock box. If you want a custom curve get yourself a dyna and program some custom curves in it, one curve for each fuel.

If it doesn't leak, and the rest of the engine components are worth the $700, then go for it. Take a carbide burr or aluminum bit and clean it up, sand it down and run it! I still don't understand why people take engine pieces apart when the engine is dirty!?! Spray that shit off with a pressure washer or a carwash or even a damn garden hose or some carb cleaner before you go removing parts that would let that dirt and shit get into a bearing and into the transmission/clutch section.

Holy shit, if you are using so much grease on your o-rings that its clogging up your radiator you need to calm down and get your finger out of the grease bucket.

How often do you change sprockets? If you are changing them that often, then something may be out of alignment or you are using cheap sprockets. Once you figure out the good gear ratio, you should be set for a while. It takes you what, like maybe 10min extra to remove the other stuff you listed?

I haven't seen a set yet that held up to methanol or carb cleaner. I use both around my carbs quite a bit and its just easier to leave them alone. I bead-blast them and chemical wash my cases before assembly. After those two, not much sticks to them. - Jared

I would invest in different pipes, then do a timing plate and a cool head. Sell the fatty's and if you have $ left over then look into porting. The fatty's are going to choke it down a lot compared to a good pipe.

Ok

Interesting, ill try it next time and see what happens.

Whats std? This was my first time on a dyno, so i have no idea about any of the options or stuff.

Its already a runner. It still makes me smile every time i get to race it. I made some changes that other drag guys here suggested. I cant wait to get it out again. The first weekend in aug we are planning a trip to KP. With the rpm spread up top i should be able to shift and still be in the good power if i hold each gear until the big end. Once i put an override in it, it wont matter as long as im up top in that flat zone. Thanks, Jared

10mil cub ported by Tim @ Titan Domes cut by Tim, but they were cut for las vegas elevation, so the compression is way down at our elevation (130lbs static compression) 6deg timing 35mm mikuni carbs with a pump and billet bowls .118 dumps .116 mains K&T / Racers Edge pipes 7200ft elevation Alright, I know some stuff on my setup is not optimal, but I am pretty happy with the numbers I got. The green run was the first run of the day with my "seat of the pants" jetting and the other two runs are after playing with the powerjet. (went from wide open and ended up at 2 turns out in the end) His sniffer wasn't working right, or didn't like the methanol. Its readings were off, so we were just going by the plug readings and the sound of the motor. This was the first time I have ever been on a dyno. It was fun & we had a great time screwing around. I want to get some domes cut for our elevation and get my compression up a little bit and take it back. The air/fuel curve is not correct & I think we ruined his sniffer. 109hp and 55tq. I really like how flat the curve stays once it seems to top out.

You will be lucky if you can fetch what he offered you in the market today... just no demand for banshees at high prices.

.123 dump and .126 main seems huge to me. I've only ever seen them that big on huge setups. I'm at higher elevations, so I know its a little different up here... we run .118 dumps with .116 mains in the 10mil. Try and open your squish up to .052-.055 that tight a squish with that much compression is a lot for the crank to work to compress... With the tighter squish you might be building too much heat and getting the strap red-hot like wheelman said. - Jared

Call hotrods. Im pretty sure you can get 120 and 125 rods with the smaller pin. Call them and see what they say. Louie @ twister can also make you a crank with whatever rods you want.

If your trans is modified you will be fine. If you have a bone stock tranny it will make shifting a little more difficult.

I point one tire forward and one backward. Ultimate traction tip. Dont go telling everyone the secrets...

Just throw some gas carbs on it and you can run gas. Pump gas to methanol there is about 15% difference in power. You would loose 10-12hp as a rough estimate. Thanks, Jared

Its the latest craze... Almost as good as the purple powerbands and pre-packed muffler bearings.

Its ok, we hate when dumb-asses from craigslist come here and try to peddle their junk.

$150 for a drum here in wyo.

Bump

ASV

What kind of motor setup do you have? What fuel? Who cut your domes? What is your static compression and computed dynamic compression ratio? What pistons are you running? If I had to wager a guess I would say deto is closing them up and when you lose spark they are getting wet. OR... you have so much fuel going in on the big end it is hydrolic'ing and compressing the strap on the plug.

Talk about totally fucking over a setup. 7-paddles, trinity porting, boost bottle... holy fuck.

Its a metal tech +4 forward with a +14 swingarm and +1 forward A-Arms.