BigRed350x

Do the stockers then... Ive seen some pretty fast bikes running with stock carbs. Plus the smaller size will give you much better throttle response. Jared

Mine also seems to like the shearer pipes. It had cpi's on it before and just going on seat of the pants riding, it has more in the mid and top with the big bore shearer's. Jared

You can, but with the case volume added by the trench it will run like ass. Jared

I agree with what john is saying here. If you can afford to get the complete combo right it would be a good runner. Its definitely not an engine you want to slap together with random parts. I spent many hours on the phone talking to different builders before i ever even ordered parts for my 485 cheetah. - Jared

Out of those, which one did you like the most and which one ran the best? What was the setup on the best one you had? Just curious.

Do a 28 PWK - Jared

In the smaller engine sizes (anything below the 10mil cheetah) the larger intakes actually lower your CCR (crank-case compression ratio) and can actually adversely affect the way the charge is forced into the transfers and slow everything down. (learned that from calvin from CP Industries over on planetsand) I too have a powervalve cheetah and love it. The powervalve smooths the power out very nicely and makes for a great dune setup. Mine has been ported and runs great, but I still think there is a lot of potential left in it. If done right the cheetah is a great motor. Get good domes, good pistons, correct gaskets, check all your clearances, get it ported, etc. If you want something you can just slap together and make good power go with the cub. - Jared

Check out the bottom end assembly walkthrough in my signature. You will need both crank seals, and the sprocket output shaft seal. The rest of the seals and crap you can put in later. Those 3 seals are the only things you will need to replace when you split your cases. There are lots of little parts that commonly wear out that should be replaced, and those are outlined in my walkthrough. - Jared

Post up some pics please. Photobucket works good. upload your pics and copy/paste the IMG tag here into your thread. - Jared

HaHaHa!

Just get a tusk clutch with the hd springs. Cheap and they are a good clutch. If you cant afford straight cuts, then stock helical cut gears are your only option. Straight cuts are around 300. And a billet basket will be 150-250 depending on brand. Jared

Yeah. If you go through and add up what it would cost to buy all the stuff new it gets ridiculous. Between the pipes and ported/polished top end you're already into it over $1500. $1k in the clutch, etc etc, then all the little stuff that nickel and dimes you in the end. All the chrome bolts and washers and nuts. (everything on the bike is chrome, not stainless) billet covers, cables, grips, tires... Its ridiculous how much money we dump into these things knowing you will never get it back out of them. - Jared

I run the Hinson spring-loaded billet basket with straight-cut gears in both of my quads. The drag bike has an 8-plate full hinson clutch setup and the cheetah has the spring basket and stock inner hub and stock pressure plate. Both bikes run a direct-drive lockup & 12-bolt cover. I love the clutch setup on both and would highly recommend the spring-loaded basket if you can afford it. This is the same setup I run in my drag bike. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-Hinson-Clutch-Basket-Cut-Gear-Hub-Pressure-Pla-/250592552822?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a587ae776&vxp=mtr Here's a used spring basket for a good price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-hinson-spring-loaded-clutch-basket-w-straight-cut-gears-billet-drag-race-/160815934674?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2571606cd2&vxp=mtr - Jared

What is your compression in each cylinder? Pull your coil off and take some sand-paper and clean the points where the coil bolts to the frame and clean the frame off too. You might have gotton water in there and it rusted up giving you bad connections to the frame. Same thing with your stator and pickup coil, check those out. Pull your carbs off and tear them completely apart and carb-cleaner the shit out of them. You sure you didn't get any water down into your cylinders when you were washing it? Any engine needs Air, Fuel, Compression, and Spark to run. So go through and start checking to make sure you have each of those items and at the right ratio and right time. - Jared

How much for just the cases?

Actually just the opposite, I really like this one. BUT at the same time I also really like big piles of cash. haha! I told the guy $7k so we will see what he says. I just wanted some input to see if what I was thinking was way off base. Thanks - Jared

Yeah, that's why I was asking... I know it wouldn't sell if I listed it for a high price. I kinda like this thing, so I don't want to just give it away, but I know I can't get what its actually worth... - Jared

Guys... I had a guy on planetsand want to buy my drag bike & asked me for a price. I have never totaled up or tried to figure a price for my drag bike, so figured I would ask for everyone's input here. Its a 10mil cub drag ported by Tim @ Titan. Metal Tech +4 hybrid frame, spring-loaded hinson basket with straight-cut gears, hinson inner hub, hinson pressure plate, direct drive lockup & cover, 2-5 override, timing plate, cool head, custom cut domes, k&t mikuni pumper methanol carbs, chariot bowls, lew swan painted fiberglass, metal tech +14 swinger, mod quad drag axle, 13-paddle SLS haulers, LSR a-arms, works front shocks, marvin shaw rear, metal tech drag tank, k&t racers edge pipes, chariot outboard bearing support, ODI grips, ASV clutch lever, tons of chrome and billet parts... That's not everything, but the big stuff. What do you guys think is a fair price to toss to the guy? I am kinda partial to this bike, so I certainly dont want to give it away.

who ported them?

Have you considered that your needle valves may be worn out or have a groove ring in the needle?

I would just remove the broken piece and try and run them without the piece. The billet bowls should prevent the floats from twisting.

Try jetsrus.com they might be able to get it. What mikuni's do you have exactly? TM34 Flatslides? You can probably run this part number and be fine... I see you have billet bowls. Most of the billet bowls actually prevent the floats from spinning in place, because the float will hit the bowl before it can turn far enough at the top of the rod to get hung up in the carb body. Jump on jetsrus.com and go to the mikuni carb parts exploded view and look for TM Flatslides, then look for the following parts: http://www.jetsrus.com/carburetor/carb_mikuni_TM_series_flat_slide_carb_exploded_view_parts.html 42. Plate, Needle Valve All TM Series VM24/560 002-721 43. Screw All TM Series C2=0406 002-722

Send your new cases & cylinders to Kevin @ HJR. He can get you taken care of and has a 10-day turnaround time. Great guy to deal with and he knows his stuff. - Jared

You should also pull the rotor and chamfer the edlges of the rotor as they would be contacting the brake pad. A little rat-tail file would do this pretty quick. - Jared

Just split your cases and send the crank out to get welded... If you have kevin do the crank weld you would be back up and running in a couple weeks. - Jared