BigRed350x

That's funny... you described my current setup almost to a Tee. I have the spring-loaded hinson 8-plate setup, 15x41 gearing and 72 RO 13-paddle haulers. I take off in 1st. It seems like everyone leaves me out of the hole, so I want to try and gear for a 2nd gear launch and see how it does coming out of the hole. - Jared

I threw it up on egay to see if anyone out there would happen to do the buy it now thing... LOL! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280908578701 Reserve is set at my asking price of $5200

Can you throw some comma's and some period's in that description so normal people can read it? How about a couple good detailed pics?

Thanks guys! I'm willing to deliver! This thing is a beast! It would go good on those coal hills back east.

Nothing huge... I honestly have more fun building them than I do riding them.

I'm moving on to another project. The Cheetah has to go before the next one can start though. No Trades. Pay-pal or Cash in Person only. I'm NOT parting it out I can deliver within about 500miles of Cheyenne, WY. Any farther away than that and its up to you to figure out shipping & all that. This isn't everything, but its the major stuff... I'm 230lbs and this thing hauls my fat ass around with ease. I can get you pics of whatever you want to see on the bike. Nothing at all wrong with it, fires up and ready to ride right now. I'm not in a hurry to sell it. Ridiculous low-ball offers will not be responded to and deleted, so don't waste your time or mine. I run the bike pretty stupid fat on meth and purge it every time I'm done riding. Change trans fluid every other ride. I built the engine in January and it sat until summer time. Its been out to the dunes about 5 times now. Check out the video & you can see how it runs... If you are close to Wyoming I would be happy to meet up with you and let you test-ride it. $5000 Or best REASONABLE offer. Engine: 485 Powervalve Cheetah • 73mm Powervalve Cheetah cylinders ported by Brandon @ Wildcard Racing • New 423M07300 Wiseco Pistons & the old trinity pistons still in good shape if you want them. • Domes cut by Tim Bond @ Titan Racing 12.5:1 Compression Ratio • Vforce3 reeds • Upp Intakes for 33-36mm carbs • New style cheetah head (uses DM domes) • 4mil Hotrods crank trued and welded • Maxload Bearings on both ends of crank • Adjustable Timing Plate w/ Stock Stator • Stock Flywheel • Hinson Spring-Loaded Billet Basket • Hinson Straight-Cut Gears • Billet Water-Pump • Pancake Bearing • Direct-Drive Lockup & 12-bolt cover • All 6 gears side-cut on transmission • 2nd bearing on shift-drum • Shift-Pro Kit • Shift-Shaft mod • Matching cases bored and port-matched to cheetah cylinders and plastic-bead-blasted • Cascade billet stator-cover • Keihin 34PJ on methanol • Chariot Billet bowls • .118 mains / dumps • 68 Pilots • Clippard powerjets • EGL Needles • Shearer BB / SF / IF Pipes cut and welded to fit correctly & stingers cut and re-welded to clear air filters • All new seals & all transmission bearings replaced with new OEM bearings Chassis • Lightened stock frame (44lbs) • Braided stainless brake lines - Front & Rear • +2+1 LSR Chrome A-Arms (New style - fully adjustable) with ball joints • Works Dual-Rates w/ remote resevoirs • +8 Metal Tech Chrome Swingarm • TCS Rebuilt / Revalved Rear shock w/ Eibach Spring • +4 Durablue Axle w/ Locking snap-ring style main nut • IMS Pegs • 21x7x10 Skat Trak Fronts on douglas blue-label rims • 21x12x8 9-Paddle Single-Buff Extremes on douglas blue-label rims • LSR Chrome Anti-Vibe steering stem • Tusk Fat-Bars • ODI Grips • Billet Thumb-Throttle Lever • YFZ450 Front Brake Master Cylinder • ASV Clutch-Lever • Pingel Fuel Valve • Billet Gas Cap • 15x41 Gearing VIDEO! Updated Pics! PICS!

LOL!

22x11x8 10-paddle extremes superlight carcass. or 11-paddle haulers in that same size.

That would be cool! Thanks man! - Jared

Thanks man! - Jared

Thanks man! I appreciate your info! I'll re-gear and use 2nd. - Jared

I'm moving on to another project. The Cheetah has to go before the next one can start though. No Trades. Paypal or Cash in Person only. I'm NOT parting it out I can deliver within about 500miles of Cheyenne, WY. Any farther away than that and its up to you to figure out shipping & all that. This isn't everything, but its the major stuff... I'm 230lbs and this thing hauls my fat ass around with ease. I can get you pics of whatever you want to see on the bike. Nothing at all wrong with it, fires up and ready to ride right now. I'm not in a hurry to sell it. Ridiculous low-ball offers will not be responded to and deleted, so don't waste your time or mine. I run the bike pretty stupid fat on meth and purge it every time I'm done riding. Change trans fluid every other ride. I built the engine in january and it sat until summer time. Its been out to the dunes about 5 times now. Check out the video & you can see how it runs... If you are close to wyoming I would be happy to meet up with you and let you test-ride it. $5200 Or best REASONABLE offer. Engine: 485 Powervalve Cheetah • 73mm Powervalve Cheetah cylinders ported by Brandon @ Wildcard Racing • New 423M07300 Wiseco Pistons & the old trinity pistons still in good shape if you want them • Domes cut by Tim Bond @ Titan Racing 12.5:1 Compression Ratio • Vforce3 reeds • Upp Intakes for 33-36mm carbs • New style cheetah head (uses DM domes) • 4mil Hotrods crank trued and welded • Maxload Bearings on both ends of crank • Adjustable Timing Plate w/ Stock Stator • Stock Flywheel • Hinson Spring-Loaded Billet Basket • Hinson Straight-Cut Gears • Billet Water-Pump • Pancake Bearing • Direct-Drive Lockup & 12-bolt cover • All 6 gears side-cut on transmission • 2nd bearing on shift-drum • Shift-Pro Kit • Shift-Shaft mod • Matching cases bored and port-matched to cheetah cylinders and plastic-bead-blasted • Cascade billet stator-cover • Keihin 34PJ on methanol • Chariot Billet bowls • .118 mains / dumps • 68 Pilots • Clippard powerjets • EGL Needles • Shearer BB / SF / IF Pipes cut and welded to fit correctly & stingers cut and re-welded to clear air filters • All new seals & all transmission bearings replaced with new OEM bearings Chassis • Lightened stock frame (44lbs) • Braided stainless brake lines - Front & Rear • +2+1 LSR Chrome A-Arms (New style - fully adjustable) with ball joints • Works Dual-Rates w/ remote resevoirs • +8 Metal Tech Chrome Swingarm • TCS Rebuilt / Revalved Rear shock w/ Eibach Spring • +4 Durablue Axle w/ Locking snap-ring style main nut • IMS Pegs • 21x7x10 Skat Trak Fronts on douglas blue-label rims • 21x12x8 9-Paddle Single-Buff Extremes on douglas blue-label rims • LSR Chrome Anti-Vibe steering stem • Tusk Fat-Bars • ODI Grips • Billet Thumb-Throttle Lever • YFZ450 Front Brake Master Cylinder • ASV Clutch-Lever • Pingel Fuel Valve • Billet Gas Cap • 15x41 Gearing VIDEO! PICS!

They have been sold for a while now. Sorry, I forgot to update this thread. - Jared

You mean for "sale" ?

No. Just post it... ya know... like a normal for-sale thread.

You could buy the whole drag bike for $7k and get the pipes with it... - Jared

Hmmm... What size engine? Mine is a 10mil cub on methanol.

I do have the spring-loaded billet basket, so that should help reduce the slam on the gear. But I'm also 230lbs. That's a pretty good load on the stock gear.

I've seen this bike and he's not kidding. Extremely clean and runs great. It was in a storage shed the majority of its life. Plastics are all nice and shiny and everything is in great shape. Bump for a great guy and an awesome clean banshee! - Jared

If you "shit" going up the hill, I'm not riding with you.

Right now I'm geared pretty tall and take off in 1st because I don't have a billet 2nd gear in the 10mil and I don't like risking a broken gear.

Just curious what you recreation sand drag / hill-shooter guys prefer... tall gearing and take off in 1st or shorter gearing a take off in 2nd?

If it will pick up and go after the hesitation, it may be lean. the sudden in-rush of air when you go wide-open makes it lean to the point its not making power, then once your jets start flowing and catch up with the air mix its able to pick up and go again. You should always err on the side of rich and go bigger on the jets first. If the problem gets worse, THEN go down. Raise your needle 2 clips and see if it goes totally to shit or if it gets better. Same thing with your air screw. I like to throw it to the complete opposite end of the spectrum with more fuel and see how it reacts. If it gets worse, then you know its a rich condition and you can start to lean it down after that. If it gets better, then you know you are going in the right direction. I've seen a lot of folks burn their shit down because they thought a lean bog was a rich condition. - Jared

Bumpity!

Got those specs I requested up above??