BigRed350x

I dont know whats going on with your pm thing here man. i get crap in my inbox all day, but never get any of yours. i will look at everything and see if I can figure out whats going on. slo, sorry I didn't respond, been up at the ranch...

TM design on my 4mil...

Its not hard to pull the cover and basket off. Drain your oil and coolant. Remove your footpeg and brake lever/resevoir (not necessisary, but helps get the brakes out of the way to pull the cover) then undo the bolts around the cover. give it a good pull/pry it off with a screwdriver (be careful if you want to try and re-use the gasket). Once off, remove the 6-10mm bolts equally that are holding your pressure plate in. Pull the pressure plate off (be careful, sometimes a round bearing will roll out of the gear tube) then pull your clutch plates out. Get a 32mm socket and remove the nut holding the inner and outer hub in place. You will have to bend back a retainer washer that's locking the nut in place. You will have to hold the inner hub in place with something when you remove the nut (an impact gun is handy here) welding an old inner and outer plate together works well for holding everything in place while you remove the nut. Pull the innter hub off, remove the thick washer that sits behind it, remove the outer hub and the bushing it rides on. Then you can get to the mechanism you see in the pics above. cant remember if the kickstarter gear is in the way or not, but its easy to remove, just pull the spring off the little tab in the cases and pull it straight out. To remove it, just remove your shifter and pull it towards you, sitting on the clutch side of the bike. Check the springs and everything. once you have it down this far, pull your shift star off and do the shift star mod. Also check your idler gear (up by where the kickstarter was) and make sure it doesn't wobble excessively. If it does, get a new c-clip, front washer and rear washer and either a new bushing for the gear or a whole new gear and replace the assembly. The idler gear is a commonly worn out part and will cause headaches when it wobbles excessively. reverse the procedure to re-assemble. Only tighten the clutch bolts (the 6 10mm ones) to about 7 to 10ft lbs. any more and you risk damage to the inner hub threads. I'd recommend a new clutch cover gasket as well. - jared

Your mileage WILL suck major wang. So unless you find a nifty way to haul more fuel with you (like in my sig) then ditch the idea right now. Like everyone said, plan on going through a top end. I burned up a top end the first time I rode on methanol. Leaned out and welded some rings and some other fun stuff. Bigger bowls are a must for a duner on methanol. Pingel is also a must. Its fun, but for most everyone gas or race gas is better. The benefits very rarely out-weigh the costs of running it on a duner. I have specific reasons I run it on my duner, one of which is ease of getting methanol out on the dunes I ride.

Naw, changed minds on that one. Just going with a different frame. I'd have to kill her if she wrecked with this frame or ran into anything on it. We figured it was better to just give her a normal frame with some spraypaint to learn with. lol!

Did you reply to him calling him an idiot?

Well, I don't have much use for this any more. Was going to use it to build a fancy duner or drag bike, but changed plans. This is not a cheaply done frame. Gay stock useless mounts have all been removed. Gusseting on the A-Pillar. Fresh bearing and seals and new lock ring installed after PC for the steering stem. The powdercoat is a $500 PC job that consists of the following: Sandblasting the frame, then a chrome PC was laid down, Then a translucent black layer was put down, then two layers of a "stardust" coat was put on, then two seperate clear coat layers were put on. The frame still has the serial number stamped in it under the PC, and comes with the title of origin and a bill of sale. The frame has been kept in a spare room, on a bed since it was brought home from the Powder-coater. There are absolutely no scratches or scapes on the frame whatsoever. It has been kept inside since brought home, and no parts have been bolted up to it since the PC job was done. PC alone was $500, which is below cost for this PC job since I have a contract with a local PC guy. Frame is worth around $200 to $250 bare w/ the title. I would like to get $650 for the frame. Shipping will depend on where you are. Pickup would be preferred so we dont have to worry about anything happening in shipping. This is a 1-off frame with a custom PC job. Would make an excellent project for a show bike, dune bike or drag bike. I only have the two pics I took tonight handy. This frame looks absolutely amazing in direct sunlight. If anyone is seriously interested I can get pictures outside. The frame is a little dusty since its been sitting in the same spot for a few months now. I will clean it up and try and get more pictures tomarrow. - Jared

Yeah, I'd say anything from a 33 to a 35 will be good for you. If you plan on doing more drags I'd go 35. If you dune more or play more I'd go with a 33. Keihin is my choice. I have both mikuni and keihin and prefer the keihin's.

sssshhhhhh! :mad: :ninja:

Sounds like a plan. :thumbsup:

Ask MJ, I hear he sales the adjustable ones. :shoothead: edit: sells

They are different. Not sure which way it goes, but one company uses the number to designate how much fuel flows through the orifice and the other company uses the number to designate the hole size. At least that's what I think it is... lol But yeah, they are different. a 320 for one is not the same as a 320 for the other. If you have a 320 for a keihin carb, you have a freaking massive jet. That's just HUGE in keihin land. You might just have a tall mikuni jet. A 180 is getting pretty big in a keihin carb, so a 320 would be unheard of. I'm pretty sure if that's the correct number on the jet, you just have a tall mikuni jet. - Jared

I'm pretty sure you know where I get mine. I know my stuff is real methanol. ROFL, I have the cancer to prove it. :laugh:

Here's a quickie for ya... smaller sprocket in front = more power bigger sprocket in front = more speed smaller sprocket in rear = more speed bigger sprocket in rear = more power taller tire = more speed shorter tire = more power 1 tooth difference on front = 2 to 3 tooth difference on rear. So if you go from a 13 to a 14 in front its the same as going from a 43 or 42 to a 40 in the rear. For me, as a general rule of thumb for myself I do a 2 or 3 tooth change out back for every 2" of tire change. So if I go from my 20" paddles to my 22" paddles I will add 2 teeth to the rear sprocket to get the same average ratio. I really have no idea if I am keeping the same ratio, but seat of the pants it seems to maintain the same average speed and power with that change.

Mine does the exact same thing. My tank is empty right now and I'm going to pull it off tomarrow and put an ass-load of teflon tape on it and see what it does. I've been trying to iron out all the little stupid kinks that piss me off before easter weekend rolls around. I hate having a nasty engine from little drips and leaks and stuff. Grrr. lol - Jared

When we meet up at sand mountain for easter I will swap you a set to try out and see if it gets you anything. :thumbsup: Carbs and reeds and we'll see what we can get out of your porting. :biggrin:

We have something like that. There's a map floating around somewhere around here that has a pin where a lot of the members are. Do a search for member map or something like that. Maybe someone will chime in here who has a link to the map.

Pics, Price, Location would help!

I might go this weekend if weather permits and everything works out... I will let everyone know.

Do your own testing. In many cases they don't perform better. I have both ported stock cages with two-stage carbon fiber reeds and vforce 3's. On my 10mil and on my 4mil the vforce 3's performed better. (seat of the pants) I'd suggest if you can afford it get both, test both and keep whichever performs better for you and sell the other on ebay or here on HQ. Everyone's engine is different and responds differently to different mods. I run Vforce3's on all my stuff when it comes time to upgrade.

Wow, fire that bitch. Rent-a-cop at a mall is too good for her.

Mid to end of July temps out on the dunes can hit 120's to 130's on clear days, here in the red desert. A cool day in the summer months at KP is around 95-100, and you will only get high 80's in the shade.

We both run EGT and coolant gauges. I also carry a laser temp gauge in my camelback.

Get a dune port. I got a new set of cylinders done and its somewhere between a dune port and drag port and I ride it in the dunes all the time. Traded a set of woods port gorr cylinders for a set of dune ported gorr cylinders. Love it. I wouldn't try and run drag cylinders in the dunes. You will spend more time in and out of the throttle and using the clutch trying to keep on the ground & it wouldn't be much fun.

Welcome to HQ! You will find anything you need here!