BigRed350x

I've had broken cases with both the plastic and billet ones. The billet ones do a lot more damage to the cases though. The plastic ones will still flex and bend into the cases causing breaks though. If you have a master link come apart and the chain builds on itself around the front sprocket it will flex the plastic just the same as it would billet and both will break cases. I still run the plastic ones though. - Jared

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=280305021170 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=280305024713 If anyone from bansheehq would like this intake and carb let me know and I can end the auction early. If you bid on the auction and win, shoot me a message on ebay and let me know you are a bansheehq member and I will give you free shipping. Intake and carb are both new. Never been on any of my bikes. Just been sitting around my garage for a while and I know I can make some money off of it.

Bump for tate! Good guy. I wouldn't hesitate to donate to help him out. Very nice and gret guy to ride with.

PM'd ya back...

We burn 55gal of meth in 3 or 4 days with a trip to the dunes. Its a little different with meth though. If I go for a week anywhere I bring at least two 55gal drums. We run it in all of our bikes though. 5 bikes will suck a drum dry pretty quick. - Jared

LOL guess I could take a mac truck out on our trout ponds. We've got almost 2 feet of ice right now. - Jared

those motors make great power?? lol

Was just something I heard lynn say...

Try to move the outer bearings sideways. Put a torsional load on them and see if there is any movement. If there is, I'd at least replace the outer bearings. If there isn't any lateral movement and everything feels right and there isn't any sort of excessive rod movement (a little left/right movement on the rod is ok, just don't want any kind of up/down movement) then I'd run it. Just be sure to check it out good. If you're still wondering, take it to a local shop and have them look it over (but they might tell you its bad and try to get you to buy one from them) or take it to your closest builder and have them check it out.

I don't know if its true or not, but lynn at LC Performance told me that no one is really making the forged cranks any more. The ones that are out on the market are whats out there. But he said that the manufacturing cost of the billet ones vs the forged ones is pretty close to the same, so people are just going with the billet ones any more. Don't know if its true, just something I remember hearing from lynn last time I was out at his shop. My friend down in colorado who had the vitos crank had a lower rod bearing go out and the welds were cracking on it when he pulled it. I don't know what kind of compression or timing he was running, but I know he ran klotz super at 28:1 on alky. He dropped in a twister crank with all the same setup as before (so he tells me) and didn't have any trouble with it. I totally agree with you about the welds though. I re-weld any crank I get before I put it in.

You could bore it out, port it, polish it, and use it as a paper-weight. haha! What other parts you interested in?

I've got a friend in colorado who ran one. He was not happy at all with the craftsmanship or support from vitos. Just keep in mind that you get what you pay for, and if its cheap there's a reason somewhere along the lines for how they were able to make it cheaper. Get a hold of louie at twister or call crankworks and get a billet 10mil crank. I believe www.cascadeinnovations.net carries a billet 10mil crank with TZ and maxload bearings already on the crank. - Jared

A little noise is normal if the bearings are dry in my experience. How much time do you have on the crank? When you spin them slowly by hand, can you feel the click at all?

Can I have my tires back? LOL Make me a deal mark. I've got a trinity 2:1 intake and carb laying around.

What about dynamic compression? Don't make me bust out my engineering physics books.

Looks like theshee's old frame and engine.

i thought thats when it was just getting good to run. :laugh: all my crap is brown and pours out like sludge.

you drilled them out, but dont know what you drilled them to??

I'm blind!

I too will vouch for jason. Awesome guy and wouldn't hesitate to do business with him. I've ridden with him quite a few times. Someone snatch up this bike.

RMATV. Check their prices...

Call Eric Gorr if you want a good dune cylinder. Haven't found anything else that would run like my gorr cylinders do for the dunes.

Crown Plating out of Salt Lake City, UT does good work.

I think it might have to do with what crank you run as well. Some of the cranks have the keyway milled back farther towards the web of the crank, but some don't. I had a billet 10mil crank from twister that didn't need it and I had a 10mil crank from cascade that had the key-way milled back quite a bit father than the other crank and it had a nasty air leak past the key when I leak-down tested it. Some of the cranks are milled back through where the crank seal actually seals and some don't. I've never had a 4mil crank that needed it.

Check the product reviews section. I'm sure I've read about them before in there. I ran one a couple years ago and I think I remember it doing ok for me.