sheefreak

98 Blaster for sale in running condition all stock. Motor has never been apart, is on origional bore. Plastic a little rough, has been ridden, but good dependable quad. Rear paddles and junk motor for parts included. Don't have pictures yet, bet will post soon. $1200 obo. Located in Michigan.

That's really cute guys!

Rooster, when you make a comment, remember what the thread is about in the first place.

Jetting should be very close to the same. You will want to do a plug chop anyway to be sure. If you are doing a top end, jetting could be a whole new ballgame. You may even put it together better this time and have to go down in jetting. I would think you should be right around the 320 range at sealevel and 70-80 degrees F.

I've seen a stator act like that before going bad. Can't guarentee it is not a loose connection, but doesn't seem like it would run for a decent amount if time if it was.

Second!

If you want to eliminate the TORS, just unplug the little black box underneath the gas tank, its a little more to the left side under tank. This will take TORS out of the equation.

Excellent! I am looking at the 38's.

I would say to be safe, start w/320's, 27.5 to 30 pilot, lower the clip one notch to richen up the mid-ckt.

Where are you located?

Is the porting configuration identical between the two?

JT, Were you real close to that 1300, or do you need quite a bit of help to catch him. Basically have the same setup as I am building this winter and I see that 1300 at silver lake here and there. I would like to embarress him. Also what size carbs are you running?

Hey bud, no offense, but if you want to move that bike you better come down on the price a lot! Unfortunately, our typical slightly modified 2-strokes have come down in price a ton in the last two years.

Also interested in some pics. Send them to [email protected]

Are you sure its oil and not just crud and grime collecting because of the coolant leak? I would stop riding it right now also, that coolant is destroying your pistons if it is getting in the cylinder. It will eventually cost you lots of money. And definately don't use two gaskets. You are going to need to pull the jugs off(at least) and inspect it further. If nothing else is wrong other than a leaky base gasket, and you haven't destroyed anything yet, check to make sure your mating surfaces aren't warped and put in the new gasket. Torque and retorque as everyone else has instructed you to do, should be good to go.

You should be lean at 240. FMF recomends 260's w/snorkel off at seal level, and after a half a summer of fine tuning, I ended up at 320's, 30 pilots, and clip in the middle groove.

If you ride a LOT of mud and water, I would go w/closed airbox, maybe w/the snorkel removed. If you are going to run it open I would do exactly as NYUK instructed w/a pro-flow adapter.

This may help. http://www.mztech.fsnet.co.uk/workshop/wrk_piston.html

Cleanup port.

The two of those pipes have almost the exact same power characteristics, and it is not low-mid power.

I second it's a 99. Guess they could have bought plastics from someone w/a 99.

Trinity, but I prefer anything that doesn't need aftermarket studs. Just happened to get a good deal on the Trinity.

http://www.tonydoukasracing.com/www/tonydoukasracing/

Yes! Don't worry, you'll never find it. Just ride it!

Sounds kind of silly, but make sure there is nothing clogging the silencer on that side. A friend of mine had his packing get loose and clog that silencer. Couldn't feel the force of the exhuast or the heat like you could the other side, worth a shot.