sheefreak

If you are running w/165 compression now, you will definately need to run race fuel.

For both of you who are willing to suffer through that pain in the ass of an inconvenience, it can only be three problems. 1,Your screw is stripped that is at the bottom of the bowl(drain). 2, your floats are adjusted wrong(most likely the problem), or 3, or your stopper is not seating to seal off the gas from your gas tank. I can almost guarentee your floats are off.

Would you offer it up override or non, how about an estimate on price. I would also be interested in a 1-5.

What about a 15/41, or even 15/40.

As long as nothing is tweaked, you can use a pocket rule or something that measuers mm's to measue the two adjusters. Get your chain slack correct using the chain side adjuster, then match the other side up. Should be right on!

For what you paid for those, I would contact Elka and explain to them what has happened. They are pretty customer oriented. They might help you out.

Second!

T.M., in my opinion, has the best chain guide a goin right now. I have found rollers to be rollers, and sorry I don't use skid protection.

Are your friends mods the exact same as yours. If not it could be that your friends bike does not require as much fuel. If your bike runs ok w/the ckoke on, all you did in essence was richen the ckt by chokeing it. If you just cleaned your carbs, I would check you bowls again for signs of moisture. If your pilots suck up any water it will clog them. Did you happen to open your airscrews up any?

No suspension.

What main jet and pilot size. And how many turns out are your airsrews?

Is that drag frame a rigid?

Is it possible you overfilled it? If it is a little too full, or have neglected an oil change for a while, I've seen it spew out the crankcase breather tube. May want to check that.

Hello?

Have a stock bore stock port set of cylinders off a 99, just tore down cause compression was low, probably needs to go up as this was the second set of pistons ran through the stock bore, but never any breakage on either set. I am interested in round style swingarm, what lengths do you have, and what about a carrier?

Compression alone does not determine octane requirement as dlnoss also stated. For instance, an 86 250r, stock compression is around 185 and manual calls for 92 octane(premium pump). Unfortunately I can not tell you exactly how to determine it.

I would agree with moving your clip down one notch to richen your midrange up a little. I might even go 27.5 pilots w/your mods, especially if you are running w/your airbox lid off. And remember, the 450's, and even the raptors w/limited mods are no slouches. You may want to thing about bumping your compression up a hair to give you a little more power in the the low to mid range.

Bobby, you'll know it when you lose a crank seal, you don't just have a little more smoke coming out one side, and if you do, it won't be long before the leak gets worse, and you are really sucking tranny fluid making a smoke cloud behind you. And of course your bike will start running really shitty. The fact that makes me confident is he's losing tranny fluid, and its the right side(the only side that could possibly be sucking tranny fluid), thats quite a coincidence to not be the crank seal. Machz05, have you held your hand behind the exaust? Is it discharging oil? I'm not just talking some moisture, but spraying oil.

If you went up on your pilot jet and or needle clip seeting my guess is you are a hair rich in the pilot needle area.

Can almost guarentee it is your right side crank seal. When mine went it was sucking tranny oil so bad, you could put your hand under the right side silencer and get literally sprayed w/oil. Yours may not be that bad, but can pretty much guarentee that is your problem. A leakdown test would indicate that as a possibility, a compression test would not.

You will never have to mess w/jetting again, but I don't know anything about that kit.

Holy, if that doesn't deter someone from just slapping a motor back together, I don't know what will.

Magnetic drain plug is not going to do shit for the crankcase. Don't forget the crank compartment and transmission are separate, so unless it was your tranny gears you are worried about, drain plug isn't going to help you. To me it looks like detonation, or a head gasket leak. The piston is awfully eaten up.

On honda styles you have two or four bolts on the back end of the swinger that sandwitch the bearing carrier. You loosen these two or four bolts and usually w/ a provided lever, just turn the bearing carrier and it tightens or loosens depending on which way you turn it. Then you retighten the bolts and you are good to go. It's a snap, much easier than the Yamaha style.