sheefreak

I don't have any experience w/the khein's, but it is worth a shot. I don't like how they are 20psi difference, but I wouldn't think that should affect starting. Before you change your pilots, try opening your airscews all the way up, if you haven't already done so, and see if that helps. If you try going down once or twice on the pilots, and that doesn't help, I would start to worry about an intermittent or failing electrical problem.

The Prow-Flow plate is one of the most important mods anyone should do to a banshee for reliability purposes alone. The stock setup will easily let dirt past your filter and into your motor. Now as far as what filter you want to use, you will get a lot of different opinions on this. I prefer the k+n w/outerware as I run w/lid off. Some guys will argue that foam is the only true protection for your bike, but I have had no problems, and you get more airflow out of a properly maintained k+n.

The only way that would make sense is if you have upped your pilot jet too much. Cause then, you would have plenty of fuel to start cold, but too much once it warmed up and would be flooding it. But your best bet, again, would be to do that compression test, then you would no longer be guessing.

I run Klotz Supertechniplate at 40:1 no problem!

I'd move that pilot up to a 30 also. Wes, where did the Brittany video come from?

E-mailed Pics.

You can just lift the two gear clusters out intact and just sit them down somewhere they won't get disturbed. Then all you'll have is the shift forks and shift fork shafts and is easy to clean from there. Then just sit the gear clusters back in their spots and you are good to go. Remember to replace all seals no matter how they look while you have it apart. It is never a bad idea to take a picture to be safe.

Unplug the TORS box under the gas tank on the shifter side of the quad. Sounds like that could be your problem. You can just leave it unplugged, just won't automatically shut down if your throttle sticks.

Right on! If you have had your carbs apart, will want to check and see if float bowls are on correct carb. They are numbered 1 and 2 inside the float bowl. 1 goes on the choke side carb. If these are swapped around the choke won't work propperly.

15 is going to be pushing it w/your mods, but like stated above front sprockets are cheap, give em both a shot!

Throttle override. If your throttle or slides stick, it will shut bike down. Also won't let bike rev when Parking brake is on.

Yeah, Put up or shut up! And by the way, Very nice ass Brooke.

Have PM!

Great seller. Items always as described, and always fast on shipping. Free bump!

Have a PM.

You have seen this?

In my opinion;....10 mil cubs, Twister or other reputable billet crank, 39-40 mill lectrons, going to want to convert to straight cut gears, v-force reeds, Noss head, oh and you better get a real long swingarm!!!

Unfortuneatley you can't count the stator out just because you have spark. It may even look like good spark. I have seen this exact case several times and it end up being the stator going bad. Check all the easy stuff first; spark plugs, filter, getting gas, clean carbs, etc. If everything checks out, I would first borrow a stator if possible to see if that is your problem. Another thing you might check is to make sure your float bowls are not swapped around, if you do not have the correct bowls on the correct carb, your choke won't work properly. Good luck!

Sent a PM.

I also believe it is a lot of carb for your setup. Maybe if your cylinders are drag ported.

Second!!!

New chain and sprockets: $200 New chain, sprockets, cases.... and a whole shitload of time: $4oo-??????.

Get a compression tester and that will give you a good idea. If your readings get down to the 100-110psi mark, then you know it is time. Also if the two cylinders vary greatly.

If you want to go cheap I'm hearing the Tusk clutches are doing fine on low-moderate HP motors.

If your jetting isn't right you can destroy a piston in no time