sheefreak

All prices best offer. Click images to enlarge. Headlights $60 shipped Shift star $20 shipped Sparky oval universal spark arrestors. Fit FMF power core silencers. Half price of new. $80 shipped Stock head $35 shipped Tailight $20 shipped Stock front bumper off LE $25 shipped

Need to look at the slides and see if they are closed when not giving it gas. Sound like your cable adjustment is off, or could possibly be idle adjustment. Do you have the TORS setup still?

Who is the PS member?

Sure your brakes arent hanging up? Take the chain off and see if it rolls easy.

Slayer..whatever the f@%k your name is, don't you have some stickers to go put on your quad. I think I saw a few spots where you could see plastic. Take Dunedemons quad off your avatar, you are a disgrace to a quad that nice and clean looking.

Could be your clutch, axle bearings, front wheel bearings.... Need more info. Is it hard to push when not running? Does it wan't to creep forward when running and you have clutch pulled in?

If it is too rich, it is too rich. Yamaha doesn't put out stock machines that are on the cutting edge of rich/lean for a reason! I would agree w/getting rid of the snorkel, may put you right where you want it. And get yourself a prodesign adapter plate and K+N or other aftermarket "clampable filter" as mentioned before. The stock setup is at best inadequate for filtering dirt.

Yes, and a Flexible High build primer for like automotive bumpers.

Were you at Silver Lake last weekend during the hill climb? I saw a Orange and yellow Banshee and almost stopped to talk to them, but noticed they had flame graphics on the side. Didn't think yours did, so I rode on.

I can't see them because I have a Firewall at work that blocks Ebay. But you can't tell as mentioned above from looking at the intake. As a matter of fact, if the intake is hogged out, it will only make the cylinder less reliable. The intake is not the bottle neck on these cylinders.

For the money, I believe these are the way to go: http://www.davemooreracing.com/ignition_syste.html This will be my next mod!

Do a search on Ebay for a leakdown tester. There is someone that sells them for a fair price shipped. I can tell you from experience that 260's are too lean and will cause a meltdown. I know it is what their website suggests, but trust me, too lean. Try running 320's, lower the clip on your needles one notch, and some 27.5 pilots. This is where mine ran best, and at worst you may be a hair rich.

I use Cam 2 w/195 lbs of compression. Is rated for 16:1 compression ratio which should cover just about anything you want to do to a Shee. VP is the only one that guarentees their octane rating, and as far as VP losing octane, it is going to be one of the best as far as not losing it. Pump gas loses approximately 1 octane point per 30 days of sitting.

Dude, are you taking the pilots out of the carbs and cleaning them? If it doesn't start cold, you are not rich enough, and the choke isn't enough to make the difference. Pilots are clogged, choke is not working properly(said you checked the bowls and crossover tube), or your pilots just aren't big enough for your mods. If your compression readings are correct, and it will start w/starter fluid, these are the only problems you could have.

Agreed! There is no Rev limiter in the first place on a stock CDI as mentioned above. You might have to pay someone to take it.

You guys can do what you like, but not a good idea to wire to the coil. Wire it to the wires(I think black and white, can't remember for sure though) that go to your run stop switch by your clutch lever. You may get away w/it, but many of people have fried their CDI's wiring it to the coil. I can't tell you exactly why it can damage the CDI, but have been warned by many very knowledgable people not to. And faster, that still allows you to close the loop if you want to eliminate your key switch.

Sounds like your TORS is kicking in when wet. Try unplugging the control box uderneath the gas tank if you haven't already and see if that cures your problem.

Better get a Clymers manual.

Make sure your float bowls aren't switched. One labeled 1-1 goes in choke side carb. Choke will not work properly if not. And double check your pilot jets. Make sure you take them out and blow compressed air through them to make sure they are clean. If you can spray starting fluid and it will fire, it is a fuel delivery issue for sure!

Something like this? Only problem is it is not a "bead to bead". http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf...true#Post464986

Ignore my post, was thinking a-arm when you said bushing for some reason. Pm NYUK, he probably has a few laying around.

A swingarm bushing, as in 1.

It won't hurt anything to use lock-tite, I did. Just use the blue. I have had the flywheel come off after torquing it correctly before.

Thats what it sounds like to me.

125 should be fine. You might want to check it again to make sure you still have 125, soulds like you overheated and boiled over. You need compression, fuel, and spark for an engine to run. If you have spark, we are pretty sure you have ok compression, fuel is not getting there. Clean your pilot jets. When I say clean them, I mean take them out, blow compressed air through each pilot, and make sure you can see light through them. Make sure your float bowls are on the correct carb when you put them back together. In the bottom of the bowls they are labeled 1-1, and 1-2. 1-1 goes on choke side carb. If not, choke won't work properly and you may kick it over 15,20,25 times before it will start. If you did indeed boil over, you should change the coolant and figure out why it overheated. Are you jetted right, impeller intact, maybe just haven't changed the coolant in a while.... Let us know what you find after all of this.