FireHead

I have had them do this service to a few rear shocks. I used to live about an hour away from them and I have been to their shop several times. Their service and quality is absolutely fantastic. Some of the folks that work for them are a little strange, but well meaning and knowlegable :thumbsup: .

It's not important to clean the inside of your pipes if you are a recreational rider that does not have a huge amount of crap built up in your pipes. :thumbsup:

It depends on what you are trying to do and how you are trying to do it. From an engineering standpoint the TSR software is pretty low-end, but if you don't have any experience with any CAD or CFD software, it is probably your best bet. The TSR software does take a bit more knowledge of engine theory and operation than the Race Logic templates do of course. :geek:

............unless it's stolen, or course. :thumbsup:

If I was actually getting post notifications via email in a normal fashoin I probably woul have sent you the box I have for $20 shipped. :thumbsup:

Well, that's just not true at all. :ermm:

I am pretty sure he was talking about the shift star and not the actual transmission. :thumbsup:

Ditto. If you don't want it, pass the info on to me or one of the others here. Find out if it has a title as well. :thumbsup:

With regard to longevity, if the override is porperly used they will last just as long as an OEM transmission. If you do not have the duneable modifications made and downshift before the bike is stopped you will probably muff up the shift forks. Anything is possible with the right skill set and fundage. Any other transmission options would require special cases to be made at a minimum. For the average person, there probably aren't many other options out there. I have had several of override transmissions fail, but they were units I modified/made myself. I have had numerous down shifting related failures as well as a couple failures I can't explain (mostly because there was not much left to figure out what happened). The worst failure I had was when I had a shift drum try and escape my engine. I am still not sure how that happened. :ermm:

http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&...s+hat&gbv=2 Here is a link to a search that I did. :thumbsup:

I am about 50% done with the DMV as of today. I have to go back to the one on Powell forst thing in the morning. The DMV and DEQ station out in Gresham were a breeze. The lady told me that I was the first person she had ever seen get 100% on either of the driver license tests (car/motorcycle). I am going to assume the populous of Gresham is retarded based on that. I think you could pass either test no matter what you did as long as you can restrain yourself from licking the screen. The emission standards that apply to my truck are amusing. They don't even load the engine or check the evaporative system when they do the test. In fact, I didn't even know the lady was testing my truck, as I was on my phone and filling out paperwork while I was just sitting there with my truck running. Now if I could just find the box I put my stamps in. :: ::

Have you found out what started it yet? Let us know if we can do anything to help.

The interuppted cutting comes from machining the gears themselves (teeth). There are also changes made to the shift drum. The guide ways are generally welded over and then remachined. I don't understand how you think your are going to back cut the gears on a VMC unless it has a horizontal fourth axis on it? There are several different configurations of override that people use. Some involve removing gears and some do not.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...sspagenameZWDVW I found this tonight while I was looking for something else. Someone on here needs this. :thumbsup:

That's a great offer. :thumbsup: Hopefully someone on here will buy that setup. That setup is certainly the nicest of it's kind that I have seen.

It appears that you have taken it upon yourself to be the one to make the stupid ass comments. The boost bottle was developed to make money..................that's it. The laws of physics that are violated by the statements made in the first post in this thread are mind boggling.

DASA or Racersedge out in Riverside, CA ought to be able to help you out. :thumbsup:

I am going to disagree with you regarding the diamond tooling. All you need is a fiber reinforced cermet insert. 50HRC steel is actually fairly easy to machine dependin on the alloy. The problem the Banshee transmission gives you when machining it is that the interupted cutting breaks tools (cermet tools are are fairly brittle, while diamond tooling the most brittle thing you can use) as does the surface hardness. FYI: steel that is above 62HRC is really where you start to habe problems.

In the rocks, I would take a stainless steel plate over an aluminum plate for several reasons. The first is that if you bend a stainless steel plate, you can bend it back without fracturing the plate. The stainless steel material has greater impact and abrasion resistance as well as a having better elastic properties. The compromise here is that the steel unit will weigh more. I think a proper sid plate made out of HDPE will actually last longer in the sand than Aluminum or Stainless Steel.

You can get those from the hardware store as well. Part numbers for such things tend not to exist. You need to know a thread diamter and pitch along with an overall length inorder to find the studs in an efficient manner at the hardware store. Too bad you are not closer as I have a ton of the OEM studs.

You know me, I am about as artisticly inclined as you are. The vinly wrap idea I think is awesome. My only experience with it has been with race vehicles though. I think Mike has a graphic designer he uses to come up with designs, for a fee of course. I am considering doing the same thing wou are doing with my triple. :thumbsup:

I am not sure if it is worth your time doing it yourself unless you just wanted to have fun with it. I would make sure you have a few spare practice sets of transmission parts on hand. I doubt anyone will be able to tell you exactly what to do as there do not seem to be any prints floating around for this and the bike builders all do it a little differently. I have made and modified several Banshee transmissions. I scrapped a lot of them in the process of figuring out what works as what doesn't. Mostly I just scrapped transmission parts trying to machined the carburized steel that the OEM transmission is made out of. I also had a shift drum escape out the side of a case when I had the engine on the dyno. That was probably the most expensive failure I had. Once you figure out how to machine the metal, then you will need to come up with a heat treating specification, which I believe is necessary with this modification. Most folks don't do that though. The heat treatment is not necessarily about core hardness, but it is about stress relief and surface hardness. :geek: You really need a live tooled lathe or mill/turn CNC machine to do the work up to the standards that I require.

I think the guy who owns that is actually a member here.

I get about 2 hours out of a tank.

My Harley is probably the loudest thing that I own and nobody has complained yet. My neighbor on the left side of the picture is cool as hell. Apparently, he is just a good 'ol boy from Virginia that is an electrician for a living. He seems to do wood working projects in his garage and is in the process of fixing up an old Honda street bike.