FireHead

Are you going Dyna? Did the money order clear your bank yet? I hear they have alot of fake money order scams these days.

If you were adding setup labor into that then $6k is totally reasonable. I just saw some of my HR paperwork today on it's way to Germany, and I see that my time has burdened accounting value of about $600/hour. I suppose I really shouldn't complain the next time I have to take unpaid time off and lose my $46/hour + OT pre-tax salary for the time I'm out.

The dual line systems are bullshit. They look like a hardware store, slap togther job. I am sure there may even be a disadvantage with regard to brake feel with them, however slight. If some one was really a thinking person, they might find that crimp t-fittings are readily available and probably wind up being cheaper to manufacture than the dual line setups in the long run. I have had several Galfer lines and they have all been top notch.

There is an electric over hydraulic model out there as well. I am not sure what that one costs though. Slapping one together yourself is porbably fairly easy and cheap though. Staying away from the Chinese stuff is a good thing. You would probably need to assume that half of your order of Chinese fittings would be defective scrap that you would never be able to recoup. IMO $6k is high you should be able to slap something together for $3k. If you have access to an MSC catalog, a Carr Lane, catalog, a Parker dealer, and some basic hand tools I would bet I could help you get that cost down. I may know someone you cav talk to at Earl's (actually part of the Edelbrock facility in Torrance, CA) or Parker if you need a hand getting fittings and lines supplied to you reasonably.

Have you or him had any fatigue issues or deforming? I had a pretty good safety factor in there when I was doing the math. How much do you want for a bolt setup?

I think I made fun of someone for using an R6 rear shock. It sounds like I might get to do it again for an R1 shock.

The RMATV kits are from Cascade correct? I think they are actually cheaper than buying them direct from Cascade if I remember correctly, plus RMATV has a bunch of nifty coupons. :thumbsup:

If you have access to a CNC machine, I have a program and CAD models to make the lock up parts themselves for several types mills and controls. The cove modification is most cost effective do to with parts from Direct Drive assuming your time is worth more than $15 an hour. :geek:

I am going to sleep so that I will be well rested to take on the oregon DMV tomorrow at 7am. :shoothead:

I suppose you know you can buy a press setup from vendors such as Earl's or Parker for a fairly reasonable price. I think you cna even choose between hydraulic, mechanical, or manual power sources.

Bansheechick is alright in my book and I certainly do not mind the advertisement for the drags. 90% of the population of PS is severely retarded and/or are raging idiots that mostly make shit up. PS can keep those folks.

I have spoke to Kim before. In fact he had alot to do with my new frame for my triple along with HS Customs. If I don't make the swingarm bolt myself (I can't easily EDM sink or broach a torx drive negative in the head), and it seems that I may have to wait for my new lathe to get off the boat from Germany as my current lathe is going to gundrill a damn thing, then I will most likely grab an aluminum one. Simple strength calculations seem to indicate that a standard 6061 or 7075 T4 or T6 bolt won't hold up to fatigue. I am interested what a couple of the folks are using in the way of Al to get a 1000ksi tensile strength bolt. Any ideas? I'd even buy one from you if it were reasonably priced and you had some material data for it. :geek:

Holly crap................people are actually sharing the same opinion with me with regard to swingarm length. I think that may be a first.

That's actually a great link that I think most people should read if they have ever bought fasteners. I will see what I think the Fastnerguy's bolts are made of. I suppose I could send one out to the metrology lab at work and see if they could figure it out.

I actually went and talked to Matt on the Friday before I escaped from California. My engine won't do what it is supposed to with a generic set of pipes. If I were to guess a generic big bore, out of frame pipe set that is aimed at a Banshee engine will only get me uo to 10k rpm and something like 180hp. My problem with Matt is that he said he was really busy and might not get to my pipes until next year. I am not really concerned with what the pipes cost, but that didn't seem to be able to make things get any better.

I am not sure I want to deal with anything that had something to do with being stolen. I am having a hard enough time getting my red bike titles in Oregon even though I have a clear title for it , in my name, with all the numbers matching from CA. I had it titled the same way in WA as well. That DMV guy from last Saturday had better hope he doesn't bump into me outside of work. If he does, he is going to get my foot up his ass. :mad:

I'll see if can come up with some pictures. My old place of work had a strict no camera policy, so I didn't take many while it was there. From there I shipped most of the engine straight up to my buddy's shop up in Bellingham,WA. As I just moved into my new place last weekend, I haven't made it up there to work on the thing yet. I think I have some pictures of the cases being anodized and the cylinder sleeves in the mill/turn. I really need to work something out for a set of pipes pretty soon. Maybe I can get out this weekend and go talk to some of the ATV shops around my new place.

Whoever told you that you need a +8" arm should be drug out and beaten with a shovel. You olny need a +2 or a +4 arm if you have even the slightest amount of two stroke riding experience.

Word. Rob or Rod (whatever the guy's name is) could possibly be retarded is if any of his PS posts are a measure of his metal capacity.

The information was helpful. I don't think that you are one of the folks I dislike from PS. Unless you plan on spewtating completely untrue information about subjects that you know nothing about we'll probably get along fine. Also, I would like to point (out just un case one of my favorite retards from PS happens to read this), that being an electrician and racing a briggs&stratton go kart when you were a kid, by no means makes you a two stroke engine development expert. To complete my rant.....................just because 80% of the people purchase most of their racing products and bolt them together, then have it run by someone else on a dynamometer (some twat on PS also explained ot me via email that dynamometer is not the same thing as a dyno), does not make you the world's leading expert on anything. I decided to go with the 0-1324cc class to aim the first version of my engine at. I finalized the design with the engine displacing 1316cc's. I ran through the simulation again and I think with a proper set of pipes (still not real sure where those are coming from) I should be able to theoretically put 226.1hp @ 16000'ish rpms to the rear wheels, given some convervative assumptions for frictional loss throughout the system. I am having some issues finding powervalves that will exhibit the proper operational curves for my application. I may need to make my own or use electic servo valves, neither of which I am really happy about. To a certain extent the design is scalable, so I would be able to get into the larger displacement class in the future with new cases, cylinder block, and rotating assembly.

I am going to agree with you to a certain extent and then I am going to also poke at you a bit. If it's an important fastener then I agree that eBay bolt kits aren't the way to go. I am not really plaaning on using these bolts for anything other than frame stuff and engine covers and such. Good, graded fasteners are not cheap no matter what you do. Most of the fasteners for my triple engine, I bought from somewhere else. I bought the fastener guy kit to save myself a trip to the hardware store for things like bolts for the upper steering stem, rear master cylinder, foot pegs, etc. I am going to either buy one of the specialty aluminum swingarms bolts (after I find someone that uses them to ask about them) or I am going to zip one out of Ti at work if I can rig up the shitty CNC lathe I have at the moment to run enough coolant pressure for an 8mm gun drill. Once I get the Fastenerguy bolts in the mail, I will post up what I think about them. The comments about stainless steel being a soft metal that stretches is a horribly broad generalization. If the a stainless bolt has any sort of legitimate grading on it, it is probably not soft and won't stretch under reasonable torque. Furthermore ARP has an entire line of main cap bolts and rod bolts made from PH stainless, so I don't know where you got that info from. They are probably the third best way to go with that type of fastener in that application with 300M and the ARP mystery material being the two better. Once upon a time, all of the Phase 9 truck engines at my old work were running the stainless fasteners from ARP mentioned above, with the less than no problems. In fact, they stayed in place even when some shitty rods we got ahold of were plastically deforming. I am relatively certain I have video of these fasteners on an engine on a dyno that made about 1000hp unrestricted (not one of ojcool's "wonder dyno's" either). :thumbsup:

I posted this in the website issues forum about a week ago and I haven't heard a damn thing. :ermm:

I have used some of their stuff and it is of great quality. I do not think i have ever used one of their side cover kits though.

My real concern is that I seem to have heard many stories about the quality of the Alloyboltz kits after the old owners death. I am still not sold on the idea that thread sealer/antisieze should be necessary on the fastners for them to work properly. I am actually mildy bothered by the antiseize thing with regard to these these kits. There is absolutely no premise or principle for that to be necessary on the new bolts when it is nmot necessary on the OEM fasteners. :ermm:

It sounds like the people working at the car lots are the same people that work at the Oregon DMV. :shoothead: