FireHead

I am sure I have some dynamometer data around here some where that I can compare. It has been awhile since I ran a stock CDI and I will have to dig around on my server and see if I can find anything where I made note regarding changing out the ignition hardware. :geek:

Yeah, I am pretty sure he runs a Dyna CDI or that Arctic Cat deal (that I am still not sure 100% what is involved with it) on most of his larger engines. In fact I think there is a video floating around out there of him working on a Dyna box with a laptop. I didn't mention it before, because, like I said, I think 535 may be clinically retarded. :ohmy: I agree with Dave about the Dyna advance options. I feel that if you run alcohol or any sort of oxygen additive (including NOx) to your fuel, you need to change your timing curve quite a bit in order to take full advantage of the fuel and make the engine run properly. A timing plate or degree key, just does not get the job done in the best manner in these cases. If you had an engine on the dyno and in one case all you could do was adjust base timing and in another case you could adjust the entire curve, you will always gain more performance from the engine with adjusting the entire curve if all else is equal. :thumbsup:

I returned the PM. Are you having Mike's guy do the vinyl? Is he doing the design as well? How much is that going to cost? I think I am going to go that direction with my triple bodywork and I probably need to get that ball rolling. :beer:

Yes, cool people are much better than shit heads. :beer:

In the books I mentioned previously. :geek:

I use a kryptonite chain ande lock that I think I got from Walmart. My bikes get chained through my truck frame at night. I have a Glock 27 alarm system as well. :ermm:

If you happen to be in a position where you would be willing to cut one of the ball joints on the chromed arms open, give me a shout. Do you know what chroming process was used?

Make sure you document what cure method and temperature is used. I will actually find this pretty entertaining/interesting. As for cuttin the thing open, I would think cutting it with a bandsaw parallel to the center axis of the joint would be the best way to disect the joint. Obviously you will want to support the tapered portion of the joint when you clamp it in the saw. :geek:

I am not upset...................I wouldn't be talking to you if I was upset. :thumbsup:

I never said you were retarded just 535. From what I hear from Chase, who does seem to come around here much any more, you're a good guy. My personal opinion on flywheel inertia is that lightening a flywheel will have a more pronounced effect on a smaller engine of the Banhsee persuasion. If you pack enough weight into the crank webs and.or rotating assembly you may not even need a flywheel on a larger Banshee engine. :geek:

I race for a living.................If you are really fired up, you are welcome to drive to Oregon to shut me up.

I think Dace said that they were alright. When do you plan to start throwing your bike back together (so you can tell me if the bolts are any good)? I haven't for got about your pipe hangers, I will get the design done this weekend. Let me know what you want me to PayPal you for shipping on the carbs. :thumbsup:

Word. :thumbsup:

Yeah, I am going to haul my crap to Florida to race someone who may be clinically retarded...................I'm pretty sure that's not going to happen. :ermm:

Give me a shout when you get out of school if you are interested in working in Oregon. :thumbsup:

There is actually a book that has been posted in PDF format on here recently by Alexander Bell that should be prerequisite reading before doing any porting on your own. (IMO) :geek:

I could have been a bit wrong as I can't seem to find the thread on here that I was looking for and certainly don't remember what was said exactly. If am wrong, I apologize. It may not have been your group that was involved in the thread. :thumbsup:

You have clearly proven that I don't know what I am talking about with your all caps post and your interesting use of grammar. Good job! Dan Hull is a good guy. If I cared I would call him, but you're just not worth it. 150hp out of an 18mm bike isn't that impressive. :shoothead:

........possibly an indian casino hooker. :ermm:

Great explanantion! I didn't have the energy to post up the information.

I don't know where ojcool went to. I have seen him post a couple things since, where I fairly promptly poked at him a bit, but he never responded. In fact when he did finally make a follow up post, it seemes like he was indirectly kissing my ass, which was sort of odd. I can be a bit of a post whore, although that is going to change a bit here with starting my new job and all. I got to spend alot of time here while I was avoiding being involved with alot of stuff at my old job. :geek:

Check eBay and Amazon every once in awhile. They pop up used from time to time. It seems like they have gone back in to print once in the last siz years, but then quickly want wento ut of print again. I have bought a couple copies to give away to students when I have gone back to the university where I got my BS degree to give guest lectures. If you run into anything in any of those books that doesn't make sense to you, just ask on here. The first time I read any of those books I wound up with several questions and whole sectipons that I didn't really understand. :thumbsup:

CAD = Computer Aided Design or Computer Aided Drafting CFD = Computational Fluid Dynamics I would guess that without an engineering degree, the TSR software is probably the way to go. As I recall, it can be a bit cumbersome to use at times though. :thumbsup:

I have never cut a Banshee ball joint apart. With that said, common ball joint socket material is either a nylon (or some alloy of nylon) or a bronze oillite type material. The nylon material can be fairly easily dissolved with certain chemicals and I believe will degrade severely above 220 degree F, but all that is a generality. The bronze material will lose it's lubricant if introduced to heat (at whatever temperature the grease degrades (call it 300 degrees F) or solvent). The other thing that will happen to the bronze is it will accept the plating, which will close off it's pores and inhibit it from holding any lubricant in the future. :geek: