FireHead

I'll let you test them out. :biggrin:

I may have to work out a way to get some crankcase supercharging done if I would want to keep up.

I didn't realize his turbo was less displacement than mine. Dammit, I may havbe to see if there is anyway I can pull some more revs out of hte engine without remachining much. :geek:

Are you going to email picture of that cub motor any time soon? :ohmy:

If you post up a picture, that would help us tell you for sure. :thumbsup:

I think you are mostly correct about the propylene glycol and ethylene glycol thing. Engine Ice has one other additive package in it that actually makes it work (just like Water Wetter except Water Wetter is not an anti-freeze). Engine Ice contains a surfactant that acts to remover air bubbles from the engines interanal cooling surfaces and to degas the coolant. That is where you get the increased cooling efficiency. :geek:

I would be very careful if you are having any thought of continuing to run that cylinder block. Aluminum that has a fissure (sp?) in it tends to not stay in the same condition very long if it keeps going through heating and cooling cycles. :thumbsup:

Can you tell me more about the Marvin's? What type are they? How long have you had them? Are you the original owner? What do they weigh? What sort of rear swingarm were they used with (link/no-link)?

I am guessing that unless you can get lucky and find the part in an industrial supply catalog, you're going to need to go to works or one of their dealers. What is the problem with getting them from Works?

Now that I am home and can look at the pictures on something larger than my Blackberry, it appears the crack may have been caused by a variance in the aluminum or residual stress left in the part during casting after the core had degraded. Either way, I don't think that repairing the cylinders by welding or cast welding is a reasonable option. You may be able to use a structural adhesive to repair them, but since the cylinder have been fired, there is a good chance that ally has absorbed enough of it's surrounds to make an adhesive solution hit or miss. If Calvin has a good enough relationship with his casting vendor I am sure they can work something out. If not, and I were Calvin, that cylinder block would be going up my casting vendor's ass. On a side note, find a decent casting house in North America is pretty rough. I am not sure that I can even think of one worth talking about. The Union Foundary in Bellingham, WA is the best I have used in North America thus far, but their capabilities are a bit limited and they usually have a very high work load making ski boat propellers. Edelbrock has a great, recently expanded, casting facility, but I would be willing to bet that they make alot of internal scrap that they don't tell anyone about. Besides that, Edelbrock doesn't really do work for anyone outside of Edelbrock. Japan has several great cating houses, but they are long lead time, expensive places. Germany has a few good places as well, but they can be tough to deal with sometimes. As I get further away from my old job, I should be able to start sharing more about some of the inside racing industry stuff. Good luck getting this sorted out. If I can be of any help, give a shout.

Is the crank on the floor of the intake port? I am having a hard time seeing it on my Blackberry. I would maybe shoot Calvin at CP an email and if he has heard of any issues like that. If I had designed the cylinders, I would be pissed if there were manufacturing defects like that floating around. :ermm:

If you get bronze bushing make sure they are made of a bronze oillite material and not the bronze door knob material a few retards are selling on eBay.

Delron is an alloy of nylon. :geek:

I actually have to order some now that I live in a colder climate. I used to use Water Wetter. :geek:

Yeah, what the hell is with the ice cube thing? All of the Germans at work get all worked up if the waitress accidentally brings their drinks with ice in them. Some German chicks are hot, and some are not. Just like some Austrian chicks are hot and some are overly hairy. :yucky: I think the real problem they had with my cheese comments had to do with the fact that I was suggesting that a fuel module they designed would have been better off being made out of cheese.

It comes premixed, so you can just put it in when you get home with it. The only bad thing about it is it might kill you if you drink it.

Cheese is a slo a good material. The Germans didn't seem to think that was funny when I brought that up in a conference call today.

Do you happen to know exactly what Dan's triple displacement is these days? :geek:

Calm down. I held off including you in your queer remark made in your first post in this thread, but it looks like you had to go onclude yourself anyway. I have seen many an item traded for a case of beverages. I personally traded a 12' Livingston boat and trailer for a 30 pack of Keystone Light a few years ago.

You could always use wood. I am a fan of oak myself. PM me for a real answer.

Those are shiney. Are they big or small flange? Bump for a good guy!

Are you sure you don't spend most of your time on PS? :ohmy:

I'll back ya up.................let me know what you need. I must point out now though that I am sure that I am considered to be an asshole over on PS. :ermm:

I have a significantly smaller displacment than Dan and I don't plan on spraying my engine. Dan's new bike is pretty cool though. I don't really have a goal for performance at this point, so that makes it a bit more fun. I'll be happy if it starts the first time I roll it over with the dyno. I am going to go into work this weekend and figure out what I need to do to get one of my dyno cells set up for my engine. I have to start screwing around with my ignition box when it shows up as well. :geek:

Fullbore will do a chrome set of plastics for a couple hundred bucks more than a normal set. The plastic isn't really chromed, but it looks like it.