Rare Scottish Tree Badger

It's your hand lever/ perch whatever you want to call it. That's what'll pull it further (with the cable attached and adjusted ). You keep saying "pull" which is confusing me . Does the mechanism's pointer sit towards the outside of the casing arrow, or towards the centre of the case when it's just resting? Rare.

That's how it should be. (I take it you mean push rather than "pull" on the arm). ... Your clutch 'lever' will pull it further, that's it's job . Rare.

I would think so, as that's only half a thou'. (0.0005"). ... I'm not too sure about your measuring techniques though! . Rare.

Wishful thinking bfs. ... No, it's right behind the jugs in the centre on top of the case. Still looking for that leak by your sprocket then .

Where I said "0.0030 Clear" earlier in reference to the Prolites, I assume that's Wiseco's instructions for boring (on the box), not wear limits. ... Sorry, I should have made that clearer. Rare.

It won't leak through the bolts if they're loose. ... They're isolated from the transmission internals. (The holes for the bolts are bored through the cases). It's most likely just dripping down from the leaking gasket behind the sprocket. Check your gear shift seal and the clutch arm for leaks, as both of these will allow oil to reach the underside of the case. ... If the clutch arm seal leaks, the oil works it's way through the drain hole that goes right down through the cases behind the cylinders. Rare.

You're pilots seem a bit big. I'm similar to your set up (@ 660ft.) and I've screwed my motor twice at full throttle 300 mains. ... On this rebuild I'll be trying 380 and coming down from there. What height above sea level are you? You should do a plug chop. I think you could go up at least a couple of sizes on your mains if not more. Especially with +6 advance, but I'm hardly the right guy to listen to right now . Rare.

I can't answer your question, but it will also depend on what type of pistons you're using. The Clymer states 0.0024" - 0.0026" for clearance. My 0.040 Prolites stated "Clear 0.0030". That seems like a lot of clearance you've got . Measured right or did you mean 0.0035"? Rare.

You've probably got it all back together by now, but anyway. ... Yeah, any one of the 3 arrows. Not sure what you mean about 'black piece' . If you mean the pushrod, then the way you describe it sounds the right way. The long pushrod goes through the centre of the clutch boss. You might not have taken it out . ... Put a dab of grease on the ball and that goes in there too, followed by the pressure plate. Rare.

Your torque is 66 lb/ ft. Yeah, you're doing it right. They should line up when you put pressure against the clutch arm with your finger. Put a post in the 'wanted' forum or contact boonman and see if he's got a lightened one. Rare.

That is the right conversion. (Copied from the Clymer) .0098 is only a Scottish Highland Midge's Ballsack-hair off ten thou anyway. ... 0.0002" I measured one. ... Fiesty wee chap! Basically the tollerence is .010" - .030", so you're good to go with what you've got there. Rare.

What altitude are you at? Rare.

Do you mean connecting rods, webs or where the crank comes out the case on either side . Bad bearings will be noisy and have excess play in them. Quote "i want to get it welded and trued but i dont think any place around me know what to do..." ... I'm sure they do if they're engine builders. The specs for the allowable limits of movement and spacing are in your Clymer manual. Rare.

I had the squish bands re-cut and used 1000 grit to smoothe down the nicks in the dome. I had asked my builder to 'clean up the head', so I was surprised it had been returned like that, but thought he must reckon it was ok. ... But I think it may have been a contributing factor in the latest detonation failure . I'm going to get a Noss head now. ... Rare.

Connecting rod side clearance: 0.25 - 0.75 mm ... (0.0098 - 0.0295 in.). I'm just taking mine apart and I have about 6mm clearance! Rare.

.018 59 lb/ ft 20 lb/ ft 32 lb/ ft Rare.

Agreed. No wonder nobody's trying to help. I only just noticed that Rare.

Sounds similar to the damage I did about 6 weeks ago. Luckily I wasn't under load, so the barrel could be cleaned up with a fresh bore. ... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...802&hl=just+let Some of the pics there should look close to what you'll have and you'll see how I rebuilt it. BUT I've blown it again last w/e ... added a few mods and didn't jet high enough for what I was doing. (And wrong octane ). You'll get plenty advice on crank options. You just need to decide which way you want to go and how much you want to spend. You'll pick up a cylinder no problem in the 'for sale' section on here, or on ebay. Rare.

What about the air bleed screw. ... Dealt with that? See where it's set at, take it out, clean and replace. Was the bike running when it went swimming? Rare.

Not electrical then. ... You said you cleaned the carbs. Did you take the jets out and use compressed air to blow through them and the passages? Rare.

Yeah, and I'm just across the pond. Nice Banshee for $2k. Rare.

Do the symptoms change cylinders if you swap over the plug leads? Rare.

Does it seem like the piston's siezed in the cylinder or that a piece of the piston is jammed under the crank? ... It doesn't take much to jam it. Edit: Ah, I see you say it's siezed in the bore. The bit about leaving the cylinder on had me there. ... I would drop some thin oil in around the edge of the piston, have the cylinder base bolts off, and use upward pressure on the cylinder with your hand around it and tap down, hopefully without too much force, with your piece of wood (and hammer if it needs it). Rockymountain is used by a lot of people here and is a well trusted site. Rare.

First hour of a three day trip. .... Bummer! I'm on the "splitting cases twice in a month" aswell. ... It sucks! Did you put a new crank seal in and grease it up when you put it together again the last time? Rare.