Rare Scottish Tree Badger

Not in your pic! ... They're in the top of your slides. Two screws hold down the stopper plate. Once they're out the needle will come out the same way. Rare.

Here's a pic. .... . Rare.

I think you'll find that very few have done their own fabbing. But no harm in asking. Rare.

Word! .... But. ... I did notice a poll at the side, for reasons not to like hackers. Top dog @ 58% is "Because they smell bad". Rare.

Errrrrrrrrr. .... I did. Rare.

Have you got the best out of the carbs you've got? What jetting? A few things that'll help with suggestions are: 1/ Where you want to make the extra power. (Type of riding)? 2/ What size domes do you run just now? 3/ what's your compression, elevation, and pump gas octane? These are some of the things that'll help decide a carb. I would suggest the Keihin PWK flat side 28mm carbs, as you've no port work. ... But that's an MX rider's view. Hopefully others will give you a few more options. Rare.

Might just be the hoop part of the frame, just above the gusseting. I've bent mine back twice now. ... You'll know if the fuel tank is difficult to pull out. My powdercoating also cracked where the frame tubing had been stressed. Cure - Scaffolding pole down through the front bumper/ chassis and a chain link ratchet winch attached from the pole to the hoop. ... loosen the top steering mount bolts first tho'. ... Worked for me! Rare.

Yeah, but there's two sets of fibres available. ... FZR 600 Genesis -- '89 - '93 FZR 600 R -- '94 - '95. I just don't know which one to get. Rare.

Yes, Yes, and Yes. You'll need to remove the carbs and intakes aswell. Also, when undoing the head nuts start at number 10 and work your way down to number 1 (each one is numbered), giving each one a 1/4 turn until the pressure is off the head. Rare.

Big End Side Clearance ... 0.25 - 0.75mm (0.010" - 0.030"). Rare.

I have to agree that this is the way it's meant to be. I'm not impressed tho'. ... Having just taken my engine apart, I find that this (clutch side) bearing with the small knock pin, (if you can even call it a knock pin, not even 1/16" like Ray says), has managed to cut itself a groove in the case almost to the bottom. The other three bearings have decent knock pins and square cutouts in the lower case, but this clutch side bearing only has a small half moon cutout. ... Crap Yamaha design here if you ask me! Why couldn't they just do it the same as the others ... I'll take that last statement back if someone can give a good reason for this, but I can't think of one. . I'm replacing my outer bearings anyway, but I'll be placing the pin in the hole at the bottom on that clutch side on the rebuild. ... I even came accross a pair of new bearings on ebay that had no pin at all on that bearing, just the circlip. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT Rare.

Whichever way makes the two arrows line up together (Clutch arm and Casing) when you apply pressure with your finger to the clutch arm. Rare.

That's what I'd do. But you're right to put up a post, just in case there's any 'chefs' around to give a reason why not to. Rare.

I've got the chance of an EBC HD clutch set for an FZR 600. ... Is this the one I've heard you guys talking about as a 'Streetbike Clutch' that fits the Banshee? I'm not sure if it's the right one. ... The part# on the box is CK2332. The guy bought it for his FZR road bike, but it was the wrong one. ... He says this one is for a 1995, and his bike is a 1993. Rare.

Once you've removed the clutch boss, just take the whole basket off in a one'er with all the plates still located. ... Either lock up the cogs between the clutch (driven gear) and the crank (drive gear) with a folded rag, or take the stator cover off and use a holding tool of some sort on the flywheel and an impact gun on the 32mm (I think) nut of the clutch basket. Rare.

Apart from obviously dropping the oil and removing the clutch cover, you'll need to remove the clutch and basket. Also, you'll at least have to pull the shift shaft through enough to spin it out of the way. ... You don't need to remove the kick start mechanism. You will probably need an impact driver to remove the screw that holds the shift star on, as it should have had loctite put on it. (Clean the threads and re-apply loctite). ... The star only goes on one war, so you can't go wrong there. Good luck, and enjoy your easier found neutral! Rare.

Seat belt laws have been around in the UK for a good while now. ... It's down to the driver to make sure any passengers have their belts on, otherwise the driver gets the fine. Every time I get in a car, I picture the tree I hit square on a few years back. ... I wouldn't be here now if I hadn't been wearing a belt that night! Rare.

Tidy job. Well done! Rare.

Have you got a Clymer manual? ... It's well explained in there. If not: The kit has all the neccessary adaptors to plug the engine's air entry and exit points. You then pressurise the engine with the pump through a spark plug hole (no more than 7psi), and see if it holds the pressure. I don't think this'll be your problem tho', as the crankcases are linked by a labyrinth seal on the crank and therefore both cylinders would share the problem. Rare.

You can do a crankcase pressure test if you've access to the equipment. Rare.

Me too! Rare.

I broke my foot in two places near Moab, up at Delicate Arch. ... Rock climbing! Sorry, but when you're from Scotland and someone mentions a place in the States that I've been to, I had to chime in. Enjoy your trip, marleyjoeb. Looks like the guys are giving you plenty places to ride! Rare.

I'm enjoying my 'master lesson'. ... Got my cases split today. I was surprised how easy it was to actually split the cases once everything was stripped off. ... I thought it was going to be tough with all that sealer from the previous owner's rebuild after the porting. But a couple of decent blows with a soft faced hammer, front and back, and they split away fine. Rare.

My understanding of the ignition timing is that the CDI advances the timing by 17 degrees from 0 - 2,000 rpm. ... It then rises (straight line) to 22 degrees at about 3,500 rpm. It then drops to about 9 degrees advance at 10,000 rpm (again in a straight line), and remains at 9 degrees thereafter. I assumed that the timing mark on the flywheel when lined up with the pointer is 17 degrees advance, since that's what has to line up on a timing light check @ 1,450 - 1,550 rpm. Rare.

59 lb/ft. Rare.