Rare Scottish Tree Badger

It goes to the 12v regulator. ... It fits to another blue wire that comes from the unit. (Only needed to run the lights). Maybe you've done away with the regulator? Rare.

What tire size did you put into that equation? ... It'll make a difference, but still won't get to the 100mph mark. 22" rears gives you 80mph @ 9000rpm or 89mph @ 10,000rpm. Rare.

Frogs' legs taste more like chicken. Not much of a "feast" in that wee chap! Rare.

When you push the clutch arm with your hand, it should go tight at the point where the two arrows meet. ... If not, you need to adjust the clutch by dropping the oil and removing the side cover. This pic shows where the arrows line up when you push the linkage. (The socket is just holding it there for the pic). . I would fit the new cable anyway and see how it is then. Follow the instructions in your Clymer on how to make the adjustments. ... Easy to do. Rare.

Here's the pic from my manual. (Install) .... . Rare.

That's what this manual describes as the 'Spacer'. Rare.

I'm getting my Wiseco Prolites from this guy on eBay. (dirtparts) $157, and that includes pistons, rings, wristpin, circlips, top end gasket kit, plus wrist pin bearings, and free shipping! This is the link to the Banshee stuff in his 'shop' .... I might get a crank from him aswell if this RZ one turns out to be junk. His prices on those seem good too! http://search.stores.ebay.com/search/searc...2&submit=Search Rare.

My clutch basket is ready to come off in the morning. (Just need to find my 27mm socket!). ... I'll take a pic of what's behind there if you still need it tomorrow. I think what you're talking about that you have are 'thrust plates'. ... The order of removal in my 'Yamaha Service Manual' is: Remove: - Clutch boss - Thrust plate - Clutch housing - Spacer - Thrust plate Hope that helps. Edit: From the pic in this manual, the thrust plates look like washers and the spacer is quite a substantial piece of steel. ... 1" - 1 1/2 maybe. Rare.

What was it then? Rare.

You want to be advancing the timing. ... BTDC. 2 to 4 degrees of advance should be plenty safe. You can go as far as 7 or 8 degrees advance, but you need to be clued in with your mods to advance that far. Rare.

Perfect explanation! That's the way mine's set up. ... Once it's done like that, the free play that you allow in the cable at the adjuster on the hand lever will let the pointer/arrow sit slightly towards the cover. But like 1800bigk says, once you pull the hand lever in, the moving pointer moves past the fixed pointer (towards the engine). ... if you just push the moving pointer with your finger, it should stop when the pointers are level. When you had the clutch plates off, if you'd have tipped the bike up slightly, the ball would have rolled out. Behind that is the pushrod. ... I don't suppose the ball's fallen out? That would maybe be why you seam to have a cable that's too long. Rare.

My banshee was stolen on New Years Day this year and I put posters up everywhere, shops, gas stations, businesses, etc. Every time I got a call about a sighting, off I went with an iron bar ready to knock the suckers off. ... I really didn't care about the trouble I'd get into! Eventually, after 2 months of searching, a mate turned up to say he had my 'Shee in his garage. He'd got a tip off from some kids that had been riding, that it was hidden in woods locally. And with their help they managed to lift the bike over 2 sets of locked gates and into his van. ... There was loads of stuff off it, but at least I got her back. ... In time, I'll find out who took it and they'll get a severe hammering. I've had so much stuff stolen over the years that I swear I'll cut the hand off anyone I catch stealing from me, and etch "Thou shalt not steal" into their forehead! Since I got the 'Shee back, I've had a car trailer stolen that doubled up as transport for the bike. ...... BASTARDS!!!!! Rare.

I wasn't bothered about the color, I just wanted to try and date it. ... I bought it on eBay as 'Like New' and it's worse than the one I already have! Rebound (bottom adjuster): My one has 7 clicks from tight (at the top) before it just spins freely all the way to the bottom. ... This one only has 5 clicks before it does the same. They're supposed to have 20 clicks from tight at the top, to tight at the bottom. Is that right? Rare.

My Clymer's on it's way, so I don't know what's shown in the 'Bible'. But my engine may as well be of use while it's on downtime, so here's a pic of what 1800bigk means. ... . I used the socket to hold the lever at that position, but there should be some free play before it gets tight at that position. Rare.

Nice One! Rare.

He's done, or is going to do a clean up job on the head. He told me it would be fine, so I'll trust him on that. I just scored a complete bottom end from an RD(RZ)350 today, so that gives me a crank and rods. ... Just need to get it welded when it arrives. I'll probably get a coolhead at the end of the year, when the funds have been replenished a bit. In the meantime, I've got 'Engine Ice' to go in on the rebuild and I'll fit a temperature guage. Rare.

Sorry to hear about your friend. Rare.

Thanks rzcolobanshee. ... Exactly what I wanted to hear, and with 11 mins to go on the auction for the complete RZ bottom end with "good crank and gearbox". I won it! ... For

Happy Birthday Ton! And everyone else that's adding another year today. Rare.

I've got so many possibilities on this rebuild of mine and one of them is a complete bottom end from an RD(RZ)350 with a 'good crank'. Is this crank an option? I've spent hours going through threads today about stroker and longrod cranks. ... I only shipped the damaged barrel and good one out yesterday to my builder and by the time I phoned this morning to see if it had arrived, he'd already done the boreing. ... I was surprised, but he said he had to do that to find out if it was going to be ok. ... It will be and he's taken it out from 0.010" to 0.040". He also said the head will clean up fine. He now wants my crank so that he can replace the bent rod and bearings, check the crank, true and weld it. (I thought i could take the crank apart and fit a new rod and bearings here. ... shows how much I know!) ... So after I came off the phone, I thought that by the time I've paid for all this labour on the crank and parts, I'd be aswell buying a new crank. And while I'm at it, get a stroker/ longrod. I've read so much today that I'm confused. ... These cylinders of mine have allready had a serious MX Race Port job. If I go for the 4mm stroker, 5mm longrod then I need 795 wisecos and either fit a base plate or cut the head by 2mm. Is that right? ... My head has allready been skimmed (previously) and now, if its been cleaned up, will I have run out of space to cut the head? Also, I'm going to have to get him to alter the ports. (Do I have to?). Can he do this without having to re-bore again afterwards? Is it only the transfer ports that need changed, and is it raised, lowered, or both? Inlet and exhaust - anything needed here? Sorry about the long post, but I have to make my mind up tomorrow. Which is why I wonder if I can just throw in the RZ crank and be done with it! Rare.

My replacement standard used rear shock arrived today. It has a yellow spring. ... Is there any significance to this, as my 2001 bike has a white spring? Another thing that's different is that the adjuster for compression is metal, whereas the one on my bike is a black plastic adjuster. Rare.

Update: Spoke to my engine builder today. ... He's managed to save the cylinder by boreing out to just under 1mm. I'm not exactly sure what he means by that, as 1mm is 0.0393" . If it's out to 0.75 mm then that's 0.0295". Anyway, Wiseco pistons going in it now. I need to send down the crank to have it checked out and have the bearings and bent rod replaced. I wish this flywheel puller tool would hurry up and arrive so I can get the cases split! He said that if I had seen the piston before this, I would have seen lots of crack marks which is why the piston broke up into so many pieces when something failed. He also reckoned that the damage had been done on the previous running, which was my plug chop run. So I guess this was going to happen anyway. I forgot to send him the bottom ring and wrist pin with what's left of the wrist pin bearing, so he'll work out what failed when he gets the crank and these other bits. Rare.

I've no experience with cool heads apart from what I've read on here. ... I assumed the dome capacity would have been stamped on the dome somewhere. If not you can use a syringe and measure it with a spark plug in place. I've heard that using 'rubbing alcohol' is more precise. There are a few variables that dictate what domes to use, such as altitude, fuel octane available, etc, etc. give dlnoss a pm and he will help you out and be able to supply the necessary domes if his will work with your cool head. Rare.

Whoever you get to do your boring will tell you what size of piston to get. He'll have the jugs in his hand and know how much it's going to take to clean the bores. If you've a coolhead just now, then a bore won't mean you have to alter your domes. Rare.

Thanks for trying freestyler, but your pics were too dark to make anything out. ... Nice clean carbs tho'. One last point I'll make is that if I hold them to the light, I can see hundreds of tiny squares (squares with circles in them???) running horizontally and vertically. Rare.