Rare Scottish Tree Badger

What should I go with for MX racing? ... I've fitted a New set of TUSK chromoly tie rods and ends as the Yamaha ones were either bending or snapping!! What a difference, I aint going to bend these. Not that it makes a difference, but I'm running +2+1 Laeger A-arms. The Yamaha Service Manual calls for: "Place the machine on a level place" "0-10mm toe-in" What do you guys set your toe in at, and at what position should I measure it at? (I know how to measure). But depending on the position of the bike, it varies. What I mean is: If I lift the bike at the front, give it a good shake in the air, and rest it gently on the ground, I get a reading of 13mm toe-in. If I bounce all my weight on the front and come off it slowly, I get a toe-OUT of 16mm. Any ideas? Rare.

MX ... Kenda Klaws, 5 in the fronts, 4 in the rears on Douglas Reds (beadlock rears). Rare.

Really???? Is this a true fact. ... I assumed that the coil was constantly feeding sparks down both plug leads and from the centre electrode to the earth strap, firing twice per rev of each piston. I thought that if you swapped the coil feed wires around then this would cause all plug sparks to jump in reverse ie. from the earth strap to the centre electrode. ... So what you're saying is that the coil is constantly reversing polarity, firing +ve and then -ve. Rare.

I wouldn't do it any other way. Rare.

Deuchars IPA.

Thanks SD, I guess what I thought was some sort of graphite grease was actually the worn alloy from the handlebar mixed with water that had got in there through time. Bummer about that 300 mile trip and then breaking your cable. I hope you got someone's spare one to cover you for that day. Rare.

I'm definitely sticking in my twist throttle assembly. I've stripped it apart and cleaned it all up. ... It looked like some kind of graphite grease was in there. This twist assembly was on the Shee when I got it, so I've never had instructions on lubricating it. To get the cable out, you have to remove the hard plastic runner that sits in the assembly. I assume the cable is supposed to run below the 'nipple' at the bottom of this plastic part. .... with mine, it's slid up a little and started to wear it's own groove in this nipple. I guess that's been the cause of my sticking throttle. I've filed away the lover bit that's left so at least it won't now be running in a 'V'. While I remember, I did notice the throttle 'jump' free just as I cracked the assembly allen head bolts. I won't be doing them back up as tight. Back to lubing: ..... Grease everywhere, or no grease, or some grease in certain places. ????? .... Should the actual throttle be lubed on the handlebar part, or just dry? (Lithium white grease is what I use everywhere else). Rare.

I'm on these aswell, they hook up great! I just got the fronts to match, but I've not been out since i put them on. Rare.

Burp!! 118 .... That's enough for me. Haaaaapppyy EEEaassterrrrrrr !! Rare.

Must be good Malt Whiskey in that bottle .... 101 Rare.

A nut splitter. .... J/K! Have you got the use of an impact gun? .... No. A good hex 14mm socket (6 sided, not bi-hex/ 12 sided). ... Probably better with as short an extension you've got that will clear the tyre and then preferably a T-bar, but failing that then a knuckle bar and a decent amount of power. ... Try to keep the setup as level as possible. If using the knuckle bar, then try to support it at the knuckle with your free hand to maintain the extension level. It sometimes actually helps to try tightening the nut a fraction, just to 'crack' it free. Failing the above, a bit of heat will get you sorted. Re- torque to 32 lb ft. Rare.

WELL DONE!!!!! And now you're shit hot on electronics too! (Well nearly; it was resistance/Ohms that you were checking from the Stator, not voltage). But hey! Who cares. You're back in business! Hope you can work that throttle ok with your blown up arm. Rare.

While we're on the subject, Dave. ... In the UK, (which is mostly ridden at below 1000ft), where do we stand on limits of dome size/ cranking pressure with our pump gas which has an Octane level of 97 (Unleaded)? Rare.

Nope! Maybe you've got a problem with a float in one of the carbs. ... When the float bowl has enough fuel in it, the float closes a needle valve to stop any more fuel coming through. It's either not rising,'cos it's got a hole in it and has got fuel inside it, or the needle valve is not sealing corectly. Try tapping on the side of the float bowl with a screwdriver handle. I would only expect it to happen on one side, as a failure of both floats/ needles at the same time is highly unlikely! I think someone else should chime in here, as two strokes are new to me and I'm not sure that the port configurations would allow this to happen anyway? Rare.

I just had the same problem last weekend and it was solved thanks to this thread: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42133 Come back if you need any more help. Rare.

Thanks JK Rare.

They come with 4 curves anyway, including an improved stock curve. I think some of the Drag guys use the programme to adjust the curves more radically. (But again, I could be wrong!) If you're good with computers, which I'm not, then yip... no problem to program it yourself. But you NEED TO KNOW what you're doing, enginewise, as you're adjusting spark timing at all engine rpm levels. There are a few other aftermarket CDI's out there ... GYT-R, Wolf, etc., but I'm not sure if they are just an improved stock curve or an adjusted curve. pm me your email address, and I'll send you the graph for the Dyna FS. Rare.

One thing that I questioned Dynatek about was the reason why the unit for the Banshee didn't have the ability to use a kill switch system for gear shifting, whereas models for other machines did. This would have been useful for me 'cos I've had an old TS250 for 20 years and amongst other things it's never had a clutch cable or lever. ... Now I've got my Banshee, once I'm going I often forget I've got a clutch and just 'click' up and down the gears the way I've always done. In fact the Banshee feels even happier doing it than the TS did. I'm sure this has got something to do with the modded shift star. ... BTW, it is nice to be able to use the clutch to start moving off instead of running along in neutral and jumping on and banging into gear! It's also cool to come to a stop gently! Anyway, this is what Dynatek told me: "Thank you for your interest in Dynatek ignitions. At the time that the Banshee ignition was designed there was not any demand for the ignition kill input and there has not really been much demand to this point. You may use the standard kill switch circuit on the Banshee to interface with an airshifter if you wish. If we can be of any further assistance, please feel free to contact us anytime." Nice reply, and I got it within an hour! Not bad eh. ... Thumbs up for Dynatek!! Rare.

Yeah, quite a few on the HQ run them. I'm hoping to pick one up in the next week or two. There's a couple of curves there that will be useful to me without having to adjust the stator plate. You also get an increase in spark energy which is a bonus. There was a thread recently where a couple of guys noticed no difference, but I find that hard to believe unless the bike's not 'tuned' to begin with. One point against it is the price, it's not a cheap unit! I've got a graph which plots the 4 curves, but it's in pdf and I'm useless on the computer, so haven't got a clue how to post it on here! Rare.

Thanks Neil, but that was for the "Air Striker". .... I did try going direct to the Sudco 'site, but their diagram for the PWK 28 is just for parts and doesn't give any dimensions. Dave.

Could someone give me the slide diameter of the above. Keihin don't show it in their many specs, and I can't find it in the archives. Rare.

The stock pilot jet is 25, they go up in increments of 2.5 ... And you should be somewhere between 3/4 and 2.5 turns out on your mixture screws. The further out you come, the more air you're bleeding into the system. What altitude are you at? Where are you "not right", and what's "worse"? Rare.

That's on my shopping list too! My local dealer here in Scotland sells them and I take it off the wall every time I'm in his shop. Can't believe how light it is .... about 2 lbs I think. He's got one fitted on his YFZ450 for MX, but he covers it with his race numbers! Only thing is, he wants

With all those changes you made, how much of a move did you make on the jets? ... Hot cam, K&N, Exhaust, and if the airbox lid is removed you're looking at quite a few moves up on your main jets. (If it was a Banshee, you'd be looking at 12 - 16 moves on the mains and a couple on the pilots). I don't think you have my problem, definitely sounds like fuelling . I just added it 'cos it's the only trip I've done on a Warrior. Rare.