Rare Scottish Tree Badger

Maybe I should just email the guy I got the bike from and ask him. I don't think these reeds were ever white 'cos I just stripped them down, cleaned them up, and put them back together. ... I'm positive that if they had ever been white, it would have showed up where the reeds are trapped between the cage and the stopper at the base where the screws are. Rare.

Thanks for puting up that pic. ... I guess that's what they are then. ... Stock cages with Boyesens reeds. Thanks for your input Guys. Rare.

Ok, Thanks rzcolobanshee. ... Bummer! Are the side cases the same? ... I've got the chance of a stainless steel set of allen type bolts to do the cases. But again, they're listed for the RD (RZ). Rare.

I don't have a coolhead, stu. It's just a standard one that's been skimmed. I've got 'Engine Ice' to go in when I get the barrels back. That's my bike in the avatar. ... If I didn't keep crashing the damn thing and blowing up the engine, I might actually get some track time and some pics. Here's the avatar one. (Spot the Christmas Mohawk! ). .... . . And here's one of her naked on the rebuild in December after I had the frame powdercoated. .... . . Rare. .

We can call it "The . List" ... Don't forget the 'flywheel puller tool', I just bought one today. Rare.

I need to split my cases to clean out the crank case, check my crank, and replace a rod after my engine failure. Is the gasket set for the RZ the same, or do I have to get one for the Banshee? ... The reason I ask is that they're so much cheaper on eBay, but rarely appear in the UK. Whereas there's plenty around for the RZ (RD on this side of the pond), and they're a decent price. Rare.

Nope, it's not the lighting. They're definitely greenish in color. Rare.

I got it off ebay. ... Like new with cover

Yip, that's the idle screws. So that's been done. All you need then is the cable and tops. Rare.

I just went out and had a look at mine. ... Compression, clicker on res., seems to make a difference softer/harder. But the rebound only has about 7 clicks on it before it gets tight (clockwise, upwards towards the spring). In this position I get the 'klonking' return. ... If I turn the adjuster down from this position by 7 clicks, it still has the klonking rebound. From here on down it just spins with no clicks until it goes tight at the bottom. In this position the back end doesn't come back up with the klonk. , but I've got a replacement on it's way. Rare.

When I saw that you'd put a post in, I thought 'ahah, NYUK, now he's seen a few sets of reeds in his time, he'll have the answer!' .... And what do I find, .... "yellowish green ones" ... Now that's funny! Rare.

I hope so too! Thanks gatesy. Rare.

I can't remember what I was told about the reeds when I bought the bike. I'm sure someone will recognise them. ... Thanks, Rare.

Stock pistons. ... Never again! But thanks for the offer, SANDSTAR. ... I'm getting Wiseco Prolites. I spoke to my Engine Tuner/Porter today (Stan Stevens, UK) and I've to send out my barrels, what's left of the piston, the other piston, and cylinder head tomorrow. I'm hoping he'll be able to work on the two damaged (transfer) ports and tidy up the bore. ... Failing that, it'll need a new sleeve, port matching, and re-bore. Rare.

Ok, no need to be sarcastic. ... I don't believe that briefly giving the bike full revs with no load was the cause, it should have coped with it. But doing that when not up to temperature probably WAS. It's not something I would usually do and like I said, I have been so frustrated with my sticking slides that I thought I had cured that problem and wanted to check. I was just too impatient. ... "My stupid fault". I don't wish bad luck on you, but 6 years on original rings is asking for trouble. ... Rings wear, and to me, changing them periodically is 'preventative maintenance'. Rare.

Happy Birthday! Rare.

I hope you're 'touching wood' as you say that! Don't you think it's time you at least changed the rings and wrist pin bearings? Does what you see above not tempt you to replace your pistons aswell? Rare.

I used a thin smear of waterproof lithium based grease (Putoline), but I guess any type of grease would be ok. I wondered the same as you about dirt/crud getting stuck in there, but I had seen a few posts about greasing the slides so I thought I'd give it a try. I've taped up the junction box where the one cable joins into the two and greased all around the carb tops and where the cables go into the carb tops. And finally greased aroung the cable entry into the throttle casing. Rare.

I guess we're talking about both. ... We're both finding that the only suspension effect is in the spring for the first 4 or 5 inches of (grab bar) travel. Rare.

If you've never had a problem with sticking slides, then I'd leave them alone. ... I've had nothing but trouble with mine sticking and I've done it as a last resort when a brand new cable didn't solve the problem when I changed to thumb throttle. Rare.

That sound exactly the same way as mine's been behaving since I had a high speed crash wacking the dogbone off a boulder at about 60mph. I thought it was just because the dogbone was bent, but I replaced that and it's still the same. ... If you push down on the grab bar quickly by about 4 or 5 inches and let go, does it come back up with a KLONK? ... I'll be interested to hear what anyone has to say about this one. I just assumed that I'd wrecked mine in the crash and I just won a replacement on eBay tonight. Apart from the klonking, the adjustment systems didn't seem to be very positive (one of them didn't click at all), so a replacement was needed anyway. Rare.

Lol, that was a fair comment you made about the limited space. ... I just pictured myself doing the swap over last w/e. But my plastics and tank were removed which meant I wasn't troubled with any space issues. Even so, I still think it's possible to do with the tank still in place. Racer714 ... It's a bit tricky, but you don't need to remove the baseplate that secures the needle. Just scrunch up the spring and push the old cable end towards the base plate and the brass cable holder should drop out (with a bit of encouragement and gravity - holding it all upside down). Getting it back in is worse. Good luck! I was glad to see the back of mine being done. And oh, my carbs were still bloody sticking even with a new cable! I've since greased the slides and then blew up the engine checking if they were now free sliding! Life's a bitch!! Rare.

You only have to remove the carb tops. Rare.

Welcome to the BansheeHQ Ewan. About time! ... 'Shee better be fixed before October! ... I hope it's done within 3 weeks. Don't want to miss the next MX round at Duns on the 5th June. Rare.

I think I agree with you here rocketboy on the "cold seizure". Another thing worthy of note is the top ring being closed up inside the groove?? So why did the piston break up into so many pieces? ('cos it wasn't up to temp. ) ... I didn't know they were only standard type pistons in there! With the previous owner having had all the port work done, I don't understand why he didn't put in aftermarket pistons. He also told me the cylinders were on their original bore. Well, they're obviously not as the pistons are marked "25" on the tops. Weiseco prolites on the rebuild! Rare.