J-Madd

I used to have a set of CPW 30 mms and I didn't have a problem. Make sure your cable is adjusted tight enough. You may even have to get an aftermarket twist throttle or thumb throttle to get the full range of motion on the cable. The cable can botton out before you reach WOT. If the slides really do hit the top of the carbs, something is definitely wrong--a carb should never be manufactured where the slide is bigger than the carb.

The answer is in many previous posts. 45:1 is a leaner fuel/oil mixture but a RICHER air/fuel ratio. If you did decide to lean your air/fuel ratio by adjusting your mix, you could go to 32:1 to LEAN your air fuel mixture. But I'd probably just re jet the carbs.

Crank bearings could have seized or busted. They can get on top of the piston and cause that type of damage as well as lock the sucker up at the bottom; or at least make it real difficult to turn it over. I saw it on a buddy's shee a couple years ago. Pull the top end off and you will get a better idea of what's wrong, as mentioned above. Edit: by crank bearings I mean lower rod bearings.

My ESR gauge leaked on my YFZ. I unscrewed the gauge and put more teflon tape on it. Fixed it right up.

If the bulbs are blown, check the wire to your voltage regulator. Its a blue wire that plugs in to the silver box mounted by the CDI. When it comes unplugged, it fries your bulbs.

I had my 400cc cubs with CPI inframes and 35 mm pwk with CEL needles, 48 or 50 pilot, I think, and 170 mains, and it screamed. I had the same problem with an occasional dead spot when you get back in the gas. I think the taper of the CEL needle has something to do with the problem.

Try the air screws at about 1.5 turns out, As far as jets....I'd think probably 27.5 pilot and at least a 340 main if you take the lid off and you have a K&N. Read the jetting FAQ, it helps a lot. It's definitely time for a rebuild with that compression in the low 90s.

I don't know if you still have the problem, but swapping stators did fix mine.

I had an identical problem that persisted for 2 years, regardless of carbs, jetting, even different cylinders. I was convined that the problem was jetting at first, then figured it was electrical. Swapped CDI boxes, ignition coils, but not stator. It didn't act like a stator issue. I bought an '06 and put the same top end, carbs, etc on it and it ran great...no sputtering, etc. (I did however seize the mf'er up by setting for about 15 mins and letting it cool off accidently in 30 degree weather, then hauling ass on it............cold seize.) But my problem was exactly like yours,....only ran like piss at WOT, regardless or lean or rich condition. I have changed the stator and will know tommorrow if it fixes mine, but I'm pessimistic.

Long Rod Todd You can have the carbs he was supposed to get to me if you can find him. Tell him I sent you. I have all of his e-mail addresses ( he has a few.) I know his user names on other forums, his phone number, etc. But I don't have the time to bother with it over the 340.00 bucks. I gave up, just like he figured the rest of you would. He was supposed to send some 35 mm pwks with intakes.

If you swapped plug wires and the problem stayed with the left side, It almost could not be electrical. You said you checked the boots, but did you actually check the reeds? A broken reed on one side would cause a similar problem. Also..I have had experience with the same problem on a buddy's shee. Cleaned carbs, checked reeds, etc. I finally gave him my spare left side carb and it fixed the problem. We never did find out what was wrong with the carb. It looked fine.

good point about the air screws.

First unplug the TORS and check the choke tube. Also, maybe its bad/old gas. Any mods? This info will help get your problem solved. Checked the compression? Good luck.

I wish ya'll would have read this post before dealing with the MF'er. 300 or whatever bucks he took me for isn't shit to me, but he's still a sorry ass loser and I hope he burns in hell.

Is the spring installed correctly? A Clymers manual could help.

I know you mean raise the needle CLIP. Yeah that should fix the problem. Raising the clip will lower the needle and lean it out a little.

Before you tear it apart, check the obvious...parking brake wires, TORS, etc. If those are unplugged or gone, switch plug wires from right to left and see if the problem remains on the right side. That might rule out an electrical issue. I've seen two cases of this problem (excluding absent choke tubes): one was a faulty right carb. I replaced the carb with a spare and fixed the problem (don't know what was wrong with the carb.) The other problem was my reeds. They weren't broken, but I had dropped a tiny hose clamp in there and it had one of the reeds wedged open, constantly flooding my cylinder at idle. You may be right about the broken/damaged reed being the problem.

I've got some. Or you can go to yamahaparts.com and buy any OEM part, including nuts, bolts, TORS, stock pipes..... ..other things that could also double as a boat anchor.

Definitely let us know if you find a fix!! I can shift mine, but I have to cram the hell out of the shifter to get it to go.............can't be good for the gears.

I'll try that first, then the needle, then finally go back down on the main if nothing else (I have some 168s on hand I can try before going all the way down to 165s). I'll keep everyone posted. Thanks Oh yeah....and I'll fix the idle.

Try Jeff at F.A.S.T. Do a search on this site and get his phone number or pm fastoys (I think).

Go to O'Reillys or where ever and buy some vacuum covers or something like that. They cover vacuum openings on car carbs. That's what I did.

If my plugs are light tan at 6th gear WOT now, won't dropping the main make them white? I know I should probably check with plugs with the 165 also, but its raining Rita here today. As for checking the pilot............my motor won't idle by itself at all. I could try that holding the throttle open a little. I have my cable adjusted all the way out and would have to tighten it at the carb tops to get it to idle. I can't get to both idle screws on the carbs at the same time, so I can't idle it there. I'm sure the pilot is rich. If I do a random plug check after just riding around, its charcoal black. You run a 58 pilot? Temp here has been about 80 and I'm at 300ft. My 48 feels rich. But if thats what your motor likes.

thanks loco. I'll have to order some 45s though. Got 1 i my 450 and/or all of my buddys' bikes I've jetted for them.

Yeah, he sucks. I'm out a little cash, and still no parts or response. I finally bought some brand new carbs and intakes. He still sucks ass.