J-Madd

I have story after story about the same type of bullshit. Easy shit gone bad.The major problem is Yamaha in general. Don't get me wrong, I love my Banshee and My YFZ. I've had many Yamahas and the one thing they all had in common is: 1. They all ran good. 2. Any bolt that shouldn't come loose by itself WILL COME LOOSE BY ITSELF. Especially at the most inopportune time. 3. Any bolt that shouldn't be very tight will either A: strip out, or B: Break off. Honda's don't seem to have this problem IMO, but don't run as good either.

TORS unplugged ? If not your obviously rich if its not electrical. Filters dirty? That could cause a rich condition. Check your electrical components with the directions in your Clymers. or switch out parts with another shee to rule that out.

Rode it about 10 miles and its fine so far. Never mind I guess.

By bar do you mean the shift shaft? If so you can replace the seal around it in about 5 minutes.

Water bottle relocater is only if you remove airbox or don't want water to overflow when hill climbing. I don't know what those hoses are for exactly. Have you checked the oil? Maybe it has too much in it. What color is the oil. If its milky, then your water pump could be leaking and overfill you crankcase.

Long story : Installed Barnett clutch and PE basket and forgot to put locktite on the screws in the basket. Tore it down and put locktite in place and put 'er back together. Rode for a while, then clanking noise from behind clutch cover. I took it apart and had put the retaining plate for the clutch basket upside down and the screws wouldn't counter-sink and the heads were hitting the idler gear. The idler gear is now loose. Don't know if it was loose before. I Bought new screws almost the same size, and to be sure I ground the heads down a little. Now I have a buzzing sound that gets louder as it revs up. It sounds like if you where to spin bicycle tire or some object very fast.....you know how it makes an oscillating sound that gets louder and softer as it accelerates and declerates. I think it is the idler gear turning and wobbling. I don't think it is hitting the screws or another gear, b/c it doesn't sound like friction or grinding. BTW: I also installed a Magura Hydraulic Clutch Kit. With the kit, the new clutch (my 3rd) and new basket, the TORQUE IS NOW AMAZING. SOOOOOO much more power seems to make it to the wheels. I can wheelie even while sitting on the gas tank in 3rd gear. Is this possible or is it just my imagination? Stock basket was shit. Thanks for any info on the noise. I'm gonna ride anyway. It's only money.

Not having any experience with a carburetor that has a primer (besides my weedeater), I'm not sure if that would make it overflow or not. On my banshee, it only comes out the overflows if the floats are stuck, or if it is turned over. And trying to start the engine with the choke on for a while should only flood the cylinders, not let gas come out of the overflow (in most cases). My YFZ has hoses that lead from one part of the carb to the other (either from side to side or top to bottom....don't remember off hand). It couldn't hurt to connect that hose to the nipple and try it. The only hoses coming from gas tanks that I've seen are the fuel line, and the vent line off of the gas cap. Not to say that I've seen them all. I Hope you get it running, man!

What he said!

Pickup coil close enough to the flywheel?

Does gas come out of this suspicious hose? If not, it probably does not lead to the gas tank. I know 4-stroke carbs have a lot of hoses...I don't know what they are for, other than the overflow hoses. You couldn't re-circulate unused gas "uphill" back into the gas tank (I don't believe). But I'm definitely not a 4-stroke carb expert. The exposed nipple could simply be an overflow hose.

I used a 20 pound sledge hammer to get my bolt out!

I had exactly the same problem. I used my dremel and ground the races until they were real thin, then used the cutting wheel to try to demolish them. I heated the swingarm and dropped a socket (17mm, I think) inside. (I had my swingarm off and on its side with the axle still in place.) The socket would barely catch a piece of the race, and I would hit it with a piece of pipe. I would pass through the race, and I would do it again about 50 times. Keep grinding on it also, it weakens it (the race). OH YEAH......heat the swingarm...that helps too. Hope this helps. It's a B.i.t.c.h.

They are NGK BR8EIX, I think. They are hard as hell to foul. I sucked a ton of water in my filters a couple times and either let it sit for a while or ran it until the cylinders cleaned out without fouling the plugs. Regular plugs would have been toast. BUT it is cheaper to replace stock plugs 4 times than to buy the iridium plugs.

Toomeys don't have the low end torque and throttle response of the FMFs, but I love mine. They don't rev as fast, but the power is there..just at a different point in the powerband. You'd pick up a couple mph on top probably.

You could also adjust the idle buy tightening/loosening the cable at the lever (once the carbs are sync'd)

Shift star is out of stock at magicracing. I don't want to buy on ebay, because I need it by the weekend. Where else should I look? Thanks

I have them mounteted on Armadillo +2 A-arms and I love 'em. It sits up higher in the front, though. It wheelies a lot easier.........that can be good or bad. Handling is a lot better. I haven't hit any big jumps yet.

Looking through the filter end of the carb, it would appear that the slides don't tough, because of the cut-out portion of the slides. If the slides were not actually all the way down, it wouldn't start....I know from experience with a bad throttle cable that kept the slides up. If you want to be sure, take off the carbs and look through the intake end. There the slides should be nearly touching the carb.

Everclear is 95% ethanol. I don't think it would be a good idea. I believe you could run off of ethanol with the right carb setup, though.

anyone?

I've got the hydraulic clutch kit and a new PE billet basket. Any tips on installation would be appreciated. I've done a search, and haven't found a lot of info. Do you have to bleed the Magura right out of the box? The directions mention a bleeding syringe and Magura mineral oil, yet the kit doesn't come with either. Can I use regular mineral oil? What's he best way to run the line without touching my Toomeys? Now my cable's right on the pipe,. Also, I don't plan to use the stiff springs. I've had bad experiences in the past.

This my 3rd clutch. The stocker was slipping when I bought the bike. I burned a Barnett drag racing in only 2 weeks b/c I didn't line up the arrows on the crankcase. Now I have a Toomey with the stiff springs. It had never even slipped until it went out all at once. I took off in second gear on pavement, riding the clutch all the way out to keep the revs up so it would not bog. After the run, I had to idle back to the starting line. Shouldn't a clutch at least slip a little before it goes completely out? Shouldn't it take that much abuse? The stiff springs suck. I'm no weakling, but rapid shifts are impossible. I've got a Barnett and hydraulic kit ordered. Should I use the stiff springs? I still want a comfortable, stock-like feel to the clutch. Thanks. Sorry for the multi-question, long post.

Ha!! I went a year without Toomey exhaust hangers. I order shit all the time and kept forgeting to get them. I've seen them on e-bay, but I finally ordered mine from magicracing.com. They're not on the website. You have to call. Under 30 bucks for billet hangers. Not sure about the clamps there. I got some of those from yahamaparts.com, I think.

Is it like a Clymer's Manual?? If so I'd like a copy. [email protected] Thanks man.