J-Madd

:shoothead: Last night my POS plastic siphon pump broke, so I took it off and loosely tightened the caps on top of my drum. I normally keep it covered to keep rain off of the top, but didn't last night b/c I'm gonna get a new pump today. Well needless to say, it rained cats and dogs this morning. I ran home from work and covered it but I'm not sure if water seeped in. Will HEET or some additive get rid of the water or is there a way to even tell if there is water in the gas? I wasn't sure where to post this but fuel goes through jets, which eventually goes through exhaust :baseball_innocent:

How old is the gas in your tank?

Fullerton Sand Sports. They indexed them on Douglas blue label and matched the roll out (I don't really know that means). I need them for this weekend. Going to St. Joe State park in MO. I called Skat Trak to see if they had them in stock. They said they "could make me some." RMATV and may others were out of stock. Skat Trak gave me Fullerton's number. edit: 400.00 shipped and mounted. They shipped out pretty quick. I ordered them last Thursday.

i've ran a 16 tooth with T5s, timing advance, pods and cool head. It "felt" like it could pull the 16 tooth, but people here will tell you it won't, and they're probably right. It was a few years ago when I had the 16. Well, I now notice you have 18 inch tires..................well it could work for you. Go for it. :beer:

Even with #25 pilots, I'd think it would still start after a few kicks with the choke on. Check your air screws. Turning them in (?out) richens up the pilot a little. Check the choke tube too. Everyones made that obvious mistake at one time or another. Edit: I also just noticed that you installed a twist throttle. Make sure the cable is letting your carbs close all the way. If it holds them open it won't start. I've had that problem when installing a new twist throttle cable. I ended up having to put the bottom part of the old cable back on.

I second that. Easy online ordering, microfiche, etc.

I'd try new plugs first anyway, even if the old ones don't look fouled. The Clymers manual goes step by step on testing the stator and coil. All ya need is an ohm meter. Plug caps could be loose or the ignition coil come have come unhooked...I had that happen once. Good luck.

I'd check the ignition coil per the Clymer manual directions also, just to rule it out. But then again my experience with a bad ignition coil is sputtering anytime the engine has a load on it, not just at WOT. It seems odd that it did this only after the new jugs, but it's probably coincidental. Good Luck! :beer:

I got some 22x11x8 10 paddle ultralight Extremes in today. I can't get them apart by myself :shoothead: . Hopefully me and couple of buddies can get these suckers apart after work. Anyone else experiece this :baseball_wassat: ? The ultra lights are shaved, leaving a texture on the tire surface that apparently is easy to melt. They were shipped from California to Missouri in this freakin heat .

I call the burns my "Toomey Tatoos". Now that I've got CPIs, I burn a leg everytime I ride, literally. I have burns on top of burns that haven't healed yet. It almost doesn't even hurt anymore. LOL. :yelrotflmao: As of last week, I'm wearing pants. I don't care if it's 100 degrees outside.

My jetting may not be perfect, but my YFZ mods are in my sig and my T5 Banshee smokes it. Sorry, I did forget to mention the Banshee has +4 or +5 timing and 150 psi, 60 over w/wiseco prolites.. I call that basically stock b/c it's not ported or stroked. List of 4 strokes this Banshee has beaten: My YFZ, YFZ with HMF full system, filter, ignition and cams, Raptor with CT racing pipe and porting, stock 700R raptor, 2 Honda 450Rs with pipes, filters and cams. I'm not bullshitting or speculating. I'll be at St. Joe state park this weekend if anyone wants to run it with a similarly modded Banshee. I'm not trash talking or anything, just stating what I've seen with my own eyes. My buddy that I let ride it is a hell of a drag racer also.

I fought that problem for a year with mine. It would pull fine, then feel like it had a rev limiter. I tried every jet combo, different carbs, etc. It was my stator.

My '06 was stock for 24 hours. When the dealer asked if I wanted the extended warrenty, I told him it would be voided as soon as I got home . Had the Cubs on the next day (crank is trued and welded now though). My basically stock Banshee w/T5s will beat any YFZ, Craptor, etc. that I've raced. It beats them out of the hole and at the other end. Dirt, pavement, loose gravel, etc. It still smokes 'em. (Besides one Craptor that had 6 grand in motor work. And that was close.) You may take the airbox lid off and rejet to get a couple more horses out of your stocker though. I've never ran 15t w/stock pipes, give it try and let us know.

You can't get it stroked later without buying new cylinders. I did the same as you were thinking about doing. I'm running stock stroke 68 mm b/c I also planned on stroking it later, but the cylinder port timings are different.

Not real sure what ya mean. Two of the wires that lead to the key switch (not sure wich two) can be twisted together to bypass the key switch, then you can get rid of it. Or you could unscrew the key switch from the plastic holder and let the switch hang by the radiator and still use the key switch. Its out of sight under the radiator cover.

One of my friends that saw the wreck said your left hand let go, then of course all that torque is gonna pull your right arm back and steer into the rail. He's certain that's what he saw.

Yeah. The noise should go away when you pull in the clutch though. If it doesn't, something else may be wrong--I'd check the impeller, as mentioned and of course make sure the clutch is still intact. A clutch bolt could have broken off and be rolling around in there somewhere.

I've always had them mark the pistons. I bet it would be rare for two pistons to be absolutely identical. The piston's blueprints allow a tolerance in either direction for cirumference. But, you may not notice any difference if you don't mark them, b/c the pistons may be so close it won't matter. Just my 0.02.

Change the oil if it's dirty, add oil is its low. Mine gets hard to shift when it needs an oil change. If that's not your prob, I don't have a clue. I've not been inside the cases before.

If you get stock replacement K&N (not the Pro Flow), you can drilll holes through the stock filter holder and the airbox and zip tie or bolt them together, allowing you to get rid of the lid without the filter falling off.

I agree. But it also depends on how bad someone wants one. I bought my '99 bone stock, broken fenders, carbs leaked gas, wore out chain and sprockets for 2650.00 a couple years ago. I would've bought any Banshee I could find within decent driving distance. That was the only one I could find. Now its got what's listed below and it's probably only worth 3000. IMO a 1990 model in good condition is worth the same as a 2005 in the same condition. Since nothing has changed on them, they're all worth the same to me.

I saw the whole thing. I also looked at the tire tracks. Your skidmarks were going toward the right almost immediately. I'm thinking there was some debris or something on the right tire, just enough so it couldn't hook as hard as the left. Glad to know your alright though. It was scary as hell to watch.

The times I've ridden with cracked reeds, it seems like it was hard to start and bogged and popped and sounded like crap as soon as you gave it gas.

Someone the other day mentioned a cheetah cub 65 mm +4 complete motor for sale for 2500.00. It wasn't in the for sale forum, one of the mod forums.

Probably vitos or magicracing or carbparts.com