J-Madd

I've got a full back fender and cut front fenders. They are severely scratched..deep scratches. Look ok from a distance if they're clean.

PM or email. [email protected].

You may try adjusting the air screws. Also make sure the throttle is not stuck a little. If the slides are open enough, you'll never get it started. I had a similar problem with a throttle cable that was too short. Good luck.

We thought about that. He did put some slime in both tires. It's not as bad when you change wheels and tires, but still does it at 6th gear WOT with other tires. I think it could be a combination of the slime and the spacers being off center, as Holyman suggested. Can't see or feel a wobble with the wheels off and swingarm raised. Swingarm bearings are good, all parts see to be like new. Thanks

A buddy's Banshee's rear end wobbles excessively, beginning at about 50 mph. We've changed wheels/tires, and made sure the chain adjuster bolts are the same length (axle is not crooked). With the rear wheels off the ground, the shaking still occurs. The axle doesn't appear to be bent, and the bearings are great. What could be causing this?? A warped axle or hub would wobble at all speeds. It feel's exactly like driving a car with an unbalanced wheel. The wobble is so bad, it also shakes the front end. For a while we thought is was something in the front end, until we lifted it off the ground. The axle has +2 spacers, if that makes a difference; but this began a while after we installed them. Please, any advice would be appreciated.

It wouldn't likely be the coil, or anything electrical b/c when you swapped plug wires, the same side had the problem (correct?). Could the fuel line be stopped up? Also, if you had access to another set of carbs, I would put those on and see if it fixes the problem. I had a problem that occurred at high rpms I fought with for 4 weeks. Swapped electrical parts w/another shee, re-jetted about 50 times, etc. Didn't work. I put my stock carbs back on and it ran fine.

Here's the corrected link http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...topic=22016&hl= Thanks fixitrod, I apparently don't know how to paste a link.

BansheeHQ I don't know if this link will work, but do a search on "step by step to lift the needle"

I forgot to mention compression numbers. I thought the same thing at first. I've got close to 175 psi in each cylinder.

Sorry to bring this old post back ,but I said I'd let ya'll know what I found. I switched the coil and cdi with no change. I changed jets a few times, no change, or made it worse. I put my stock carbs back on and guessed with about a #410 main (should I go with 420?). It ran fine. There must be a prob with one of the PWKs. The jets are not clogged, where else could I look? Thanks. On another note, this gave me time to work on and ride my YFZ450. I put a +2 front sprocket on it (stock is 14). Its now 16/38. I hate to admit that it feels pretty dang close to the banshee. It has a killer bottom end even with the higher gearing. I was hardcore 2-stroke , but..........well, I'll have to line-em up to see for sure. My YFZ only has an enlarged K&N, no lid and an edelbrock carb.

no biggie. I believe i is the coil, but I'll also try Bachetta's suggestion. Thanks all. I'll let ya'll know what the problem turns out to be.

Hey hamuel. Please post your own topic. Everyone, including myself, would be glad to help with your issue. This is my post, and my problem is not yet fixed. I went up 2 sizes on the mains, and there is no change. It cuts out only at high rpms. I think its the coil that the plug wires come out of. I've ran in to this problem on another Banshee before. Still haven't done WOT test. Now my fuel petcock is leaking a ton. I won't ride it until I get it fixed, then I'll start switching electrical parts from another shee and/or WOT test.

Adjust air screws? I had to adjust mine and raise my needle clip all the way (back in 90 degree weather) just to get mine to lean out on the bottom end. You may also adust your needle clip position. Any help with my problem???

Is it "bogging" or is it actually "cutting out"? If it sounds like its choking, and smoking a lot, then its bogging and is too rich. If its crisp and kind of stuttering, it would be lean. It was bogging and rich. Taking the lid off leaned it out. That was the correct thing to do. You still may want to do a WOT plug check though. To make sure that you're not NOW running lean on the mains.

After my lights blew, I left the motor running [its pitch black outside, no moon, etc] and my plugs were glowing blue at the chrome bases. Blue flashes (not sparks) were flying out of the plug wires into other wires, even my hands as I touched the wires. I couldn't even feel it. It knocked my ass off when I touched the plugs, though. I've touched running plugs before and not got shocked. Looked like something out of a movie. Sorry for the long, pointless post. A ground problem maybe? Nah it was the blue wire to my voltage regulator. I assume I was gettin' too many volts through the plug wires when the wire came unplugged.

Fuel line clogged? Pilot jet clogged? someone else add to this!

Believe it or not, the stock boots will fit the 28mm PWKs. I stretched my boots to fit 30mm PWKs. Stretch them with your hands, and fight them until you get them on, then immediately put the clamps on. I later fought some clamp on filters made for stock carbs until they fit on my 30mms. IT WILL WORK!!!! TRUST ME. Be patient.

My mods are in sig. I've just put on clamp on K&Ns, but it did this a few days after I put my cool head on, before the clamp ons were installed, and temperature has dropped several degrees. I thought I had it fixed after my last post. Mains: 160 (pwk 30mm) Needles: 2nd notch from the blunt end. Air screw: I've tried 1/2 turn out all the way to 1.5 turns out. Pilots: 47.5 I think. (I'll look later). Plugs after random check are light tan. Haven't done WOT test yet. Elevation: 300ft. Temp: this time of year????? Hell 50 -85 F. Its cut out at 85 and 60 degrees F. Don't force me to ride my YFZ tommorrow!!!! Also, it looks like my mikuni jets will fit my Keihn carbs. What is the size conversion, if any. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

OCTANE. The lead helps it have more octane. (from what I remember in chemistry class).

update: Voltage reg. blue wire came unplugged. Just like in some past posts I searched. Gotta love this site Any problem you have, someone else has already had it. Just search the posts and find the answer Thanks

I found the prob: when i finally installed my clamp ons, my left carb boot was loose at the cylinder. I also moved my needle clip one notch richer. (It was all the way lean [up]). It had 155 mains in 30mm PWKs, I put some 160s in it (all I had) and test rode it a little ways and the "cutting out" in 1st and second stopped. Plugs were dry (and gray) by the way. And Dave at Noss heads said the 100LL would be ok with 20cc, I trust him. He said 19cc with +4 timing would be pushing it with 100ll. Could have been the loose boot, jetting, or combination of both. HOWEVER...my headlights quit during my test ride (posted in repairs and mod forum). I've been told its the voltage regulator. This next bit of info is in the wrong forum but I have to mention it: After my lights blew, I left the motor running [its pitch black outside, no moon, etc] and my plugs were glowing blue at the chrome bases. Blue flashes (not sparks) were flying out of the plug wires into other wires, even my hands as I touched the wires. I couldn't even feel it. It knocked my ass off when I touched the plugs, though. I've touched running plugs before and not got shocked. Looked like something out of a movie. Sorry for the long, pointless post.

Checked the reeds?

If the voltage regulator is blown, is that harmful to the other electrical components?

I lost my high beams, then I lost my right headlight on low beams, then I lost my left light and tail light. WTF. All in about 20 seconds. I haven't checked the bulbs. This was right after I installed my dual K&Ns and had to strap some wires to the frame that used to be on the airbox. What has happened. Someone help!!!!! (I've still got my YFZ450 to ride at night if I need to, but like the bansh a hell of a lot better)

Is R-11 insulation just "pink panther" aka house insulation? I'll try that. Thanks.