J-Madd

I have T5s and PWK 30mm carbs now. Also, I'm now mixing my 100 octane with 112 octane, and moved my timing as far as the stock plate will let me drill it out.

Sildes in corrrect carbs? It's easy to put them in backwards if they are switched. Will run like crap until about 4 gear WOT. The cutaway portion should be toward the airbox. You can take you filter off and look in there. If the slide is almost flush against the carb, they're in backwards. Good Luck Welcome to THE HQ!

So for my type of riding (i.e. dicking around), I wouldn't want these? Anyone else rode the cubs?

I like my Toomeys. Aren't Rockets drag pipes? I don't want a drag bike. (But I want to smoke my buddies Craptor with about 2 grand in mods..I used to beat him terribly without all of my mods. I haven't gotten to race since he modded his more {Stage 4 cam?, forged hi comp. piston, others} but it's pretty fast.) But I may give him a call and check his prices, depending on what everyone else recommends. Thanks stclark816

Looking at Cheetah Cubs with stroker and port or porting stock cylinders and stroking it ..<-------oh no not that way. Seriously, I want some power. I don't want an all out drag bike. I like to ride trails and go FAST! My mods are in my sig. What do I need? Money is of little option , but I don't want to get ripped off.

Had to edit post. Just realized you were making fun of that f'n bullshit. Are they fucking serious?

You can tilt your exhaust hangers forwards or backwards, and it will move your silencers towards/away from your pipes a little. And yes, it would be better if it went alll the way over the pipe 'till it flanges out, but if the clamp keeps it from leaking exhaust, it may not matter IMO.

Are the bulbs blown? If they are, the voltage regulator is bad, and too much voltage was sent to the lights. (same as if it came uplugged, in my case). If not, it is most likely something else.

There almost has to be air in the left line. Mine does the same thing after I put on new A-Arms and had to disconnect the lines. I bled the shit out of 'em and still think I've got some air in there somewhere.

yes. See if the blue wire came uplugged from the voltage regulator (the silver box beside the cdi). It happened to me once.

I've got some. Directions are pretty shitty. They look great. Multiple color powder coated. You have to use your stock spacers and dust caps, so don't lose/damage those.

EXACTLY WHAT HAPPENED TO ME!! Almost. I bought a barnett (not ebc) and didn't follow my clymers instructions. Like you, It wasn't until I bought the Toomey clutch, that I had complete instructions on lining up the arrow. I've already burned my Toomey up now. It lasted about 8 months, but I was abusing the clutch badly when it fried.

Oh yeah.............1500 ml (1.5 L), about 1 and 3/4 quarts

Yamalube from the dealership is ok. I use Maxima clutch saver 80 wt. The oil you use has to be detergent free to be used with the "wet clutch" of the banshee. I've used penzoil 10w-30 in a blaster for years without problems. Personally, if I wanted to ride today, I'd just ride, as long as oil is on the dipstick. Waiting another day or so to find the oil you want won't hurt your 'shee.

Yes. Maybe go down a size on the main and adjust the air screws. I'm sure the jetting experts will chime in.

Did you use the stock cable, or the one that came with the carbs? My stocker (well, not stocker, but twist throttle cable for stock carbs) had the same problem. I put on the cable that came with the carbs and no problem.

I don't know that my Banshee has ever hit a rev limiter. It does stop pulling at max rpms, but I just figured that was limited by my pipes, stroke, fuel/air ratio, etc. If we have rev limiters, I would like to know as well. I bought one (from SRP) for my YFZ that was supposed to increase rev limit by 1000 rpms, I can't tell much difference, but I'm sure its there.

My friend wants to add some extra power. His mods are: FMF ssts, K&N in box w/lid, boyesen rad valve/reeds. He's thinking about a big bore or a stroker kit, or both. What would be the best. He would like it set up for trail riding, hill climbing, possibly flat track racing. 1. Would SST's work with a big bore setup? 2. What size carbs with either set up? 3. And what's the difference between powervalve big bore kit and regular kit? 4. Stock crank ok with any of these? Thanks, and sorry for the long post.

Thanks, I'll see what size jets that sent when the carb comes in today.

Use the stock bolt. You may have to drill a bigger hole into the lights. Use washers on both sides of the bolt to make the lights fit. As for connections: Cut the stock wires and wire the new ones in. I don't know if it matters which wire goes where. I know I just matched black to black and white to yellow.

I bought some fog lights at autozone. I didn't use the brackets, I just put the lights where my stockers were. I had to put some washers in there to make it tight and bend the stock mounts to snug the lights in there. That might work for you. I love mine, just bought some HID bulbs for them (freaking 20 bucks each!)

*&*%)^&*^(*(% SORRY----JUST NOTICED ITS IN THE WRONG FORUM I don't know how to move it. I'm sure someone can help me anyway

A buddy is about to put together his Blaster with a used 240cc kit with some type of port job. Probably what ever comes on the 240 kit. It has an extra intake port and a couple extra exhaust ports, I think. What type of jetting for break-in and thereafter? Mods: FMF gold series or maybe Fatty No box or maybe box without lid w/K&N 240 kit and 35mm carb(from Trinity) as mentioned above Elevation about 250 ft. Temp about 60 F. Also, can we just hone the cylinders and re-ring the used piston? Cylinders look fine. No scarring.

They sent another intake boot. It was quite a bit smaller than the intake side of the carb. I'll pm rocketpig, I'm sure he can help. Thanks.

A friend of mine with a Blaster is having a hard time dealing with Trinity. He bought a 38 mm carb on the website. When he got it, it mentioned he had to file it down for it to fit into the intake. There was no mention of this on the website. He did not want to grind on a $350 carb. They wouldn't pay shipping for the return. He will have paid shipping 3 times before is gets the 35 mm he has now ordered. Just thought I'd see if a fellow HQ member could help 'em out. Thanks