J-Madd

It can always hit the foot peg. You can also look at where the kick starter sits at resting postion. It should be angled just a bit toward the back of the bike. If it is more than about 30 degrees back its probably too far. You can take the kicker off and move it a couple splines on the shaft that goes into the motor until it rests where it should. Either way, its not hurting anything, as long as its got enough movement for you to kick it and it start. If its too far to the front, it will rest on your new chrome case and scar it a little.

Runs great with 165 mains, 48 pilot (big I'm told); richer needle than what came with the carbs (the one Jeff @ F.A.S.T recommends); needle in the middle. I put 170 mains in; runs like crap until about 4th then takes off. 6th gear WOT plug check shows very light tan plugs. Should I raise my needle clip, or go down to 45 pilots? 45s or the only size I don't have on hand, so I figured I'd ask before messing with the needle. I also have V-Force 3s, T5s, and homemade pods of sort out of PVC pipe. Thanks everyone. BTW..68 mm (big bore) cubs with drag port. Stock stroke (don't shoot me!!)

Just block them off. I just put some 35 mms on mine. One came blocked off, the other has some tubes on them. I blocked both of them off per Jeff at F.A.S.T.

This POS cashed the money order on 8/18/05.

Still nothing from this guy. Anyone know him? Tony Ferro from 10114 Lake Florence Way, Anderson Island, WA. I know he's been online and got my pms. I haven't had time to see if the money order is cashed, but I'm sure it is. 5 weeks today since I mailed the money order.

My experience with missing choke tubes, is that the it won't start at all, or it'll run like crap. NOT take 200 kicks to start it, then start fine when it gets warmed up. I would say its low on COMPRESSION....like mentioned above by many others. I'm curious to find out, though....keep us posted. Welcome THE HQ.

I've got some chrome T5 pipes/silencers. Head pipe brackets have been welded. They still look ok and sound awesome. Make me an offer and you can have 'em........I'm reasonable.

I may have one. I ruined one of my A-arms taking them off. If its the right side, your out of luck.

He said he got the money order back on August 26 (in his defense he said he had been on a camping trip) and would send the carbs out ASAP. Its been over a month since I mailed the money order, and 13 days since he said he would mail it out!!...................I'm still waiting on a response from him or the carbs....I'll keep everyone posted

The napa store here doesn't stock that size freeze plug. I'm not sure what size to order? Anyone know? Would these work, and if so what size? Expansion Plugs <--click here

My stud extenders and water plugs are on backorder from the place I got my cubs. Where else should I look to get these? He said a hardware or autoparts store, but no one around here has anything like that.

I hope those Boyesen's work well for you! I had to change my needle clip a notch when I had them.

I sent whiteboarder a money order over a week ago (mail gets coast to coast in 3 days, max,) and I haven't heard back from him. I could be lost in the mail (unlikely), however he does not answer PMs when I inquire as to whether he has received the money order. I'll update this post if/when he responds.

Do a search on "reed spacer" and you'll get plenty of opinions.

I fixed a guys Banshee in 5 seconds via intallation of that stupid tube. He had had it at the dealer for six weeks. Replaced all the seals (thinking it was an air leak). It cost him a couple hundred dollars, and they still didn't fix it.

Is no one gonna mention the choke tube? By far the most common overlooked problem for new Banshee owners. Make sure the tube is in place between the carbs.

Damn.........Pretty sure you didn't miss nothin' Good explanation man

Take the clamps off of the carbs at the airbox and at the intake and pull the carbs off. The take the allen head screws out of the intake. Pull the reed cages out of the intake and you can tell if they're cracked/damaged, etc. It should be self explanatory from there..........if not let us know. Welcome to THE hq.

I still don't have the cylinders off, but pm or post your email address and I can send you pics. Same to you crystal shee...I can send pics if you want, when I get time. If either are interested in buying without looking at pics; I'll ship 'em out ASAP. BTW: I would let you know before shipping if there are any flaws or unforeseen probs w/ the cylinders. Like I said, porting is just a mild clean up job by local machine shop.

I just bought some a couple weeks ago for my YFZ. Made up a couple bike lengths in damp sand 300 ft drags. Tried paddle tires and lost a couple bike lenghts vs. stock tires. Definitely good tires if the sand is right. I was told to turn them around opposite of the rotation arrow for the sand. Every one at St. Joe park in MO runs them that way.

When I tear down the top end, Ill take some pics. Carbs: Sold Rad Valves/Reeds: sale pending

Carbs are flat side carbs. They're a little too big for stock bore and stroke or without some porting. They work great with T5s. Send me a PM, I've still got them. May have some pics of all the parts pretty soon. I haven't had time to tear it down yet, and don't have my cubs yet

precisionpowersports.com (I think they actually order them from A &S or Southern Style Racing.) EDIT: I may not have remembered the price for the big bore domes, but I'd almost swear he said 20 bucks.

Keep kicking the crap out of it. Or turn the screws back to 1 and 1/2 turns out. If you turned them in too far, It will be lean and you'll have to kick the crap out of it even with the choke on......and give it a little gas every other kick or so. Put plug wires back on after you changed te plugs?

Cylinders: 875 w/out port job (250 more for port work) Pistons: 175 Big Bore Domes (if you go with the 68mm bore): 20 bucks I'm doing the same thing now. I've already paid for my 68 mm cubs and full drag port, domes, etc. I didn't stroke it b/c didn't want to buy a crank yet. I'm trying to sell my extra stuff now, without much luck. Its over $1300 when you look at it like that for some cubs. NOT $875. That shit adds up quick And I don't have the carbs and pipes that I really want yet. But It'll be worth it if they ever come in. (Is there a shortage/delay of production in cubs?) I agree the keep the crank and sell the stock parts, but you'll probably be out a little more the $500 extra IMO.