Ducman

Thanks for posting that link. Very interesting pictures of 1966 vs 2010 and overwhelming INCREASE in vegatative growth on the sand dunes. I had no idea! What is rediculous about Winchester Bay is that they could easily open up 75% more riding area to the south and it would take a lot of pressure off the existing riding area and trails simply due to dissapating the # of riders per square area. Anything that would increase ATV interest and draw more riders to a riding area is obviously against the Forrest Service's NAZI agenda.

1 - The original Banshee Hill 2 - The Banshee Hill side chute just to the left. 3 - The new Banshee Hill chute approx 150' to the North and ending just left at the top of Banshee Hill. Where's the 4th one at? Did I miss one? I guess I better go back and look! J/K Yeah, I thought is was pretty retarded when they blocked off the end of the finger above (North of) Banshee hill. When the the forest service starts to micro manage an area like this, its not a good sign.

I was at Winchester Bay last week, it had been 1 year since I had ridden there. There was a new Banshee Hill, or at least new to me, about 100 ft to the North of the old banshee hill. When the heck did this hill climb get made? It was alot like the "side shute" to banshee hill. It was a 2 wheel rut steep and windy hill climb through the trees. Obsticles were not that bad. I had 21" paddles and was just barely able to keep from getting high centered on the center burm between the ruts. I didn't see many others able to climb it except one guy on a raptor 700 with 22's seemed to own the hill every time. It was one of the funnest hill climbs of all time! I sooo kick myself for not getting a helmet cam! The only problem is that it would over heat my shee like a mofo due to all 1rst gear and such a long hill climb, but still worth it! On a side note the old side schute was a heck of a lot of fun too and rideable from bottom to top, no major obsticles. Just had to share.

On my 421 I have a +4 swinger, 240#'s, 21x12x8 9P extremes and 14/44.

I would recommend Winchester Bay for your first trip. It has the biggest dune faces and best hill climbs by far. It does not have as many square miles of riding area and you cant ride on the beach like Florence or Coos Bay - (Horse Falls, Howser and Spinreel), but you are in between the other 2 riding areas and its only 10-30 minutes drive to the other riding areas. I would also recommend Discovery Point for camping. They also have a little convienience store and a good little ATV shop/store, laundry mat and you can ride out of the camp ground. I have been tempted to get a few people together and rent one of the new 3 story luxury condos (3 separate bedrooms) for $275 per night they rent out of Discovery point (see picture on the website home page). It is right at the beginning of the dunes. There is a pier on the bay 1/4 mile away from the camp ground that you can ride to and go crabbing for dungenous crabs. The store rents crab rings. I have never seen a sound check point at Winchester Bay and it seems like at this area they hastle the least. I have always gotten away without any spark arrestor on my rockets and I never see them on any other banshee either at W.B. There are other less expensive options close by at Winchester Bay that you have to trailor to the dunes that rent cabins and yurts for around $30 per night at the umpqua state lighthouse campground. You have to reserve several monthes in advance for summer monthes. I'm havving difficulty using the link post function so here it is to cut and paste. http://www.discoverypointresort.com/

I'm jetted for around 0-500'. I can ride logging roads that go up to around 5000' with no problems. It is noticeably down on power but is ok for just cruising a road or easy trail. When I go to sand mountain 4000' and drag race up the hill it is also noticeably down on power but still does OK. I would rather be jetted rich at high elev and correct at the bottom of the hill rather than lean at the bottom and good at the top. 9000 ft will be very thin air, it will be quite noticeable. Bring a new change of plugs just in case.

Try duct taping a small hose to the end of a shop vac and suck it out. Make sure the vac resevoir is clean so you can verify the screw was sucked up.

What kind of extension do you get on either side, +2"? I already have a set o YFZ 450 upper and lower a-arms minus one lower a arm (bought a set to replace one dammaged one on my wifes bike). I'm also already running the YFZ 450 shocks. I might have to look into this.

SLC customs I got one of these ladder bar swingers (+4) from SLC customs you can see in the link above off e-bay and it was a pretty sweet deal. I cant remember the exact cost but I think it was somewhere around $500 including the modquad twin row carrier. So far is has held up great but I only have about 20-30 hours on it so far and no real big jumps. My only complaint was that it took longer than advertized to get the swinger delivered because they make them after you order it and then they had a couple of screw ups that delayed the order even further. As far as quality and weight it seems top notch. I got it with skid plate mounts, PCed gloss black, and got the anodixed black modquad carrier and 2 of the break line clamps. Looks killer.

I switched to Amsoil Saber 100:1 mix and love it. You can actually smell the race fuel rather than the oil, never have oil comming out of the silencer, and you wont make the guys ridding behind you nauseous.

You need at least a set of dial callipers to measure the bore size accurately enough. You can pick one up at a tool shop for around $20. Or just go to a mechine shop and have them measure it. If you have pistons that fit the cylinders then the bore size is stamped on the dome of the piston.

Yup, probably jetted rich with the lid off and now its really rich with the lid on. +1 on the mains size should be around 300.

That looks like the same one made by the e-bay seller the Swing Arm Shop. I had one, +4", and tore the welds that connect the tube (shock mount) to the swing arm rails loose and cracked the bottom of the rails. It is a weak design since there are holes drilled into the swingarm rails so that the tube goes inside and the weld is just on the surface of the rail. Also, the stock bearing carrier is pretty suckey too. I wish I would have bought the round style twin row bearing carrier and a better quality swingarm like I have now. Between the crappy swing arm and the crappy stock bearing carrier I shortened my riding time on 2 separate trips to the sand doons. I got a pretty good deal on a tubular trellis design swingarm with round house carrier on e-bay for around $475 and its holding up well.

I was supprised by the sound of air rushing into the fuel tank cap vent the first time I turned on my pingle. Fills the carbs 5x's faster than stock. No reserve though.

You can pry the seals out but a lot of times if they have been there for a long time they will get dammaged to get them out. They are not terribly expensive though. You can get the bearings out by putting something like a piece of pipe that just fits inside the bearings (like the axle does) and drive them out from the opposite side. Hit one side of the inner race and then the other, back and forth. These can also be fairly stuck but a lot harder to dammage than the seals.

I recently installed a new +4 swingarm with a round modquad axcel carrier. On my old +4 with the stock carrier, I ran a 14/40 combo. I tried to put the old chain (still had probably 30% life left) on the new swinger with a 14/42 combo and it just barely wouldnt' fit; too short. I figured what the hell, I may as well start off with a new chain anyway and one more link will fix the too short problem with plenty of room for adjustment. Well now the new chain with one more link fits but the adjustment is as far as it will go the other direction to tighten the chain. It is actually adjusted pretty tight with a little room for some stretch, but if it stretches very much it will be too loose with no room for adjustment. Has anybody had this problem and know if I go to to a 43 tooth rear would this take up enough slack to give back some adjustment or will the difference be barely noticeable. If i go with a 13/39 combo will this solve the problem with adjustability and give the same gear ratio but with a higher chain speed? Thanks, Zack

I believe the optimum WOT A/F should be between 12 to 13:1 you dont wand to be leaner than 13:1 and will loose power/bog at A/F's much richer than 12:1. You may want to consult someone familiar with dyno tuning a banshee though to verify. But yes, a wideband is a totally kick ass way to tune a banshee. Much more scientific than doing a plug chop. 14.7:1 A/F is optimum for part throttle low load/steady speed conditions on the needle and pilot.

I think just about all round housing carriers are twin row bearing carriers too, so there is 4 sealed bearings, two on each side. It makes the bearings last like 4x's as long and a way stronger design.

Probably just a defect. The impeller is billet aluminum pressed on the steel shaft. Probably was just a loose fit on the shaft.

When I recently installed my pingle I noticed a lot of really fine crud partially plugging my stock petcock screen. I had previously removed the two inline filters right in front of my 34mm carbs to get better flow. After the pingle install w/no inline filters, turning on the petcock with completely dry carb bowls, I could hear it sucking air through the gas cap vent tube for the first time, and it filled the carbs very noticeably faster and left no bubbles in the line like before. I would recommend cleaning the stock petcock screen and running no inline filters. If that doesn't improve it enough get a pingle.

I have the toomey radiator with my 421 cub motor. It does make a difference but it only keeps it from overheating for a hair longer than with the stock radiator. If I were you I'd do the billet impeller and engine ice first, that will also make a noticeable difference for under $100 compared to $300+ for a radiator.

A little grease will hold the spring and ball in place. You might have to push the spring and ball in just a tad bit to get the kick start lever to slide over them.

I just broke my +4 e-bay swinger (swingarmshop) at the shock mount a month ago drag racing through the whoops. It had a 1 year warrenty but was on the 3rd year. The round bar was only welded to the inside of the flat rectangular tubes, it spun and broke/tore the thinner metal on the flat surface. I think the swingers that have a rectangular tube or a round tube that is welded to the inside and outside of each tube are stronger. Also some swingers have some good gussets on the cross bar for the shock mount. The round swingers with the round bar for the shock mount are probably also stronger since the weld isn't just on a flat surface. I took my chances again and bought a new +4 tubular trellis design off e-bay. It has a 3 year warrenty so I guess I'll have to try to break it sooner than later. Any of the better known brands with a lifetime warrenty will cost you $600 or more including the round axel carrier.

Your oil ratio will depend on what oil you run. Mix per the recomendations of the oil manufacturer, most oils run at 40:1, some higher. Yamalube 40:1 would be fine, I personally wouldn't mix it richer than 36:1. Now, I run amsoil sabre 100:1 (per amsoil's recommendations) I used to run maxima castor 927 at 40:1, at first I liked the bean oil smell but it got old especially for the people riding behind me and was much more oily and smokey. Now with the sabre at 100:1, you smell the race fuel and not the oil and it doesn't smoke nearly as much except on a cold start up. The cylinders still get plenty of lube.

Vito's locking clutch It says "STEALTHY AND COMPACT-FITS UNDER A EASILY MODIFIED STOCK COVER! HOLDS 100+ HORSEPOWER" Anyone know anything about this or have one installed. I love the look of the covers modded with the clear window for a lockout clutch hub mod, but this would save some $ if it works the same.