Ducman

I agree with you 100%. I have seen the cops enforce speed on the Winchester Bay access road so I already know about that one. We like to rent the house that is across the road from the Discovery point campground.

That has been my experience too, that the riding areas with houses close by get sound checked, but I only go to the OR dunes once or twice a year now so I don't see what happens on a regular basis.

Super clean barely used 03' banshee, congrats, you found a unicorn.

My buddy just put a monster duel exhaust with the shorter canisters on his Raptor 700 and holy shit it thumps. I'm kind of worried he wont make it past a sound check if we run into one. I have only ever been sound checked on one of the whooped out access roads near Horse Falls before. I've never been checked or heard about a check at Winchester bay before. Anybody know how often and which riding areas get checked the most? Well be heading to Winchester and Spinreel at the end of April, kind of off season so I'm hoping there wont be any sound checks. Also, I have rockets pipes on my banshee and I've never been sound checked before with these. Do piped banshees make it through a sound check ok?

Gliders are smaller paddles than haulers, made for little kid machines. You should be comparing and looking at extremes or haulers. I also wouldn't go with a tire diameter any larger than 22", 25" is way too tall of a tire for your set up. Do you have an extended swingarm? For the best all around play tire, I would be looking at a 20" or 21" extreme or hauler with 8 to 10 paddles. If you want more wheel spin then go with a 20" and 8 paddles, more traction then go with 21" and 9 or 10 paddles. My personal preference is a 21x12x8" extreme 10 paddle and I like doing the tree shooting hill climbing in the Oregon dunes too. If I were more into jumping and playing I would probably go with a 20" tire. I just bought another pair from RM ATV and they were $510 on .190 rims. The 21" 10 paddle tire is about all the traction I would want on my +4 swingarm. The biggest advantage I find to having a larger diameter tire is that if the sand is wet and there are deep wheel ruts, the larger diameter tire give more ground clearance so you don't get high centered and drag the frame, plus more traction.

It sounds like your not getting enough fuel on the pilot jet. A rich pilot should make starting easy. Turning the airscrews out makes it leaner, so you probably need to screw them in to make it run richer. You should try to turn them 1/2 a turn out from seated and see if this makes any improvement at all. If it does then the 30 pilots should improve it even more.

I had a motion pro twist throttle a long time ago that worked well except for going through whoops and hard bumps sometimes it was hard to hold the throttle in one position. I ended up trimming my slide springs and going back to a thumb throttle. Still a fairly stiff thumb throttle but I like it better than a twist.

The whole idea behind making someone pump your gas it to create jobs, yes its that stupid.

I have 34 mm flat slide mikunis and they run the same mains as the stock carbs, they are not the same as stock carbs for jetting but simmilar. I run 350 mains on my 421 cub.

I run Amsoil saber from 80:1 to 100:1 with no problems. In theory going from a rich oil mix to a lean oil mix should make your A/F richer but its typically not such a huge change that you should have to rejet for the difference unless your just trying to get it perfect. Have you checked your compression?

second on the try a 30 pilot.

Thats exactly what I did when mine stripped and the new oversize plug has been working great ever since.

I'm from CA which is probably even worse than Oregon. My only options for sand riding (live in FarNorcal) within a 6 hr drive is Sand Mountain NV or Oregon dunes. The BLM is over regulating SMNV too. When I was a kid you could ride anywhere at Winchester Bay including the beach or as far south as you could physically get on your machine. We like WB because we can go crabbing off the dock, buy some fresh oysters for the BBQ, and there is still a lot of fun terrain and hill climbs there that are still open to ride.

I mainly looked at Winchester Bay since I'm most familiar with this riding area. The only thing I saw on the PDF indicating the date of the PDF was where it said "No decision will be implemented in 2014". I know one hill climb I mentioned above is shown on the map as a newly closed trail and that one was closed last year, but the other trails shown as closed were still open last year so I was wondering if some of the other trails shown were new closures I haven't seen in person yet. These trails and hill climbs through the trees are what makes Winchester so much fun and I'm just hoping that they don't screw them up. We are doing a trip to WB some time in May, so I guess I will find out.

I'm not sure if the info in the link below is current, if these are proposed closures, or if they have already happened. I'm mostly familiar with the Winchester Bay riding area and it looks like they are closing some of the fun trails and hill climbs that go through the trees. Look at the legend for "user created trails - closed". Last year when I went to Winchester I was sad to see that the new hill climb that was just north of Banshee hill was blocked off. That was one of the most challenging and exciting hill climbs of all time in my book. http://sandgoons.com/oregon-dune-closures.php

Not sure what kind of riding you do, but a good port job on the cylinders and the 35's would be great, or at least not as overkill.

Usually you have to have stroker domes custom cut, not off the shelf. Yes the piston goes 2mm above the deck. You can get more power out of a +4mm stock cylinder with the proper porting, I'm guessing about +5 more hp and a little more Tq but like was mentioned above, your a stock crank away from a rebuilt with the parts you already have.

If you want to run a 4 mil crank you will need cylinders ported for the extra stroke or you are kind of wasting the money on the crank. If you go with a port job on the cylinders to go with the +4mm stroke then you can get them ported for use with a spacer plate under the cyliinders and use standard domes, or I would recommend a port job that uses stroker domes (no spacer plate), but that would mean you would need a new set of domes. If you run a +4mm stroke +5mm long rod crank then you would need 795 series pistons which lower the wrist pin in the piston 5mm to acount for the longer rod. Since you said you already have the pistons you would want to go with a stock rod length which most would not recommend. All that being said, the way most builders do a +4mm stroke long rod set up on stock cylinders is to do the 795 series pistons and stroker domes so you would need to takes 2 steps backwards on your parts list.

Hard to say if your off idle bog is from being to lean or too rich and if its the needle or pilot or a combination. You could try 2 turns out on the air screws (leaner) or try one clip position leaner or richer on the needle to see what makes an improvement.

Probably an issue with the test gave the low numbers, but getting an equal pressure on both sides is a good sign. I have a similar issue with my cheap compression tester. TDR recommended a few specific models and the craftsman compression tester was one, its affordable, about $65.

Show me a flat top piston for use in a banshee. Were not talking about 4 strokes here.

I have two used rear sandstars 20x11x10 on ITP T-9 (.190") rims. The paddles have some wear. I would guess they were used around 8 trips to the dunes. The rims are not a perfect polish anymore but still look pretty good, no dings, no air leaks. $175 for the rims and tires. Shipping will be $30 or you can pick them up if you live near Redding Send me a message with your e-mail address if you want pictures.

All pistons have a dome shape to them. There is only a couple of things that could cause you to need to run a special dome and that would be if you have a stroker crank or after market cylinders like cub or serval cylinders. Most likely you just have stock cylinders/pistons so you can run standard off the shelf domes. If you are 3000 ft elevation or higher you could run 21cc domes on pump fuel. If you are sea level to 3000 ft you should run 22 cc domes. No jetting changes are required for increased compression but when you increase compression you increase the chance for detonation so you want to make sure you are not running too lean on the main jets.

What exactly are you trying to do? I would just remove the carbs, take the fuel bowl off and thoroughly clean the carbs with carb cleaner. There isn't anything that typically needs to be replaced. I would only buy carb parts as needed. About the only thing that might need to be replaced over time is the fuel lines and the float valve but if it isn't leaking then I wouldn't replace it.

With T5-s and K&N pods you should be at least a 300 main and 27.5 pilots