Ducman

I got one of these, in a primered finish and painted it. Its not as nice as having a honda style axel carrier but it works just fine for me. e-bay swing arm shop

Yes, reded was willing to part with the Toomey radiaor. We have a deal pending.

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=66599

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=66599

sent you a PM

I looked at the Alba web site recently and thier prices were somewhere around the +$360 range, but I'll have to call and see what they say. Thanks

still looking

Look in rockymountainatv.com for some pretty decent prices on chains. Get o-ring chains. Non-orings are pretty much race only, they will stretch after every ride and wear out fast. I have a +4 swinger and I just bought a 120 link chain + universal link and shortened it to the length i needed, I think its 116 links but I dont remember for sure. Just use a dremel to grind off the rivit ends, slip the chain to remove the length of chain that is not needed. Boost bottles are junk, don't get one, they dont do shat. Gearing kinda depends on the exact situation you will need the gearing for. I gear down just a bit so I can get into higher gears on long steep hill climbs in the dunes and my motor doesn't come on the pipes untill very high in the rpms. However in the ocean dune sand trails I have to shift alot more which is a somewhat undesireable side effect. I run 13/40 with 21" paddles so it is actually pretty close to stock. For the trails you would want to run taller gearing so you dont have to shift as much especially if you still have a motor that starts pulling at pretty low rpms (like stock). Stock gearing 14/41 is actually not a bad all around gearing especially for a stock shee. As for the leaning out of one carb the only way that could really ever happen is if you had an air leak between the carb and the cylinder or a partially clogged main. Most of the time if this ever happens it will make the one cylinder run so crappy you will now you have a problem, you can hear when one cylinder is running even slightly different than the other. As far as I know this isn't any more common than any other type of motorcycle carbs leaning out. Banshee's are tough as hell. The only think that I've ever done to F-up my shee is run too low of octane for the amount of compression I was running and it detonated and ate up my pistons, fortuneately I knew there was a problem and found out what was going on before my pistons broke or dammaged the cylinder.

You will need to pull the flywheel and replace the stock timing plate with an aftermarket adjustable one.

I did the same thing a while back. When I did it the second time I said "F" the torque wrench and just did it by hand. A lot of torque wrenches are just not very accurate below 10 ft lbs. The spec is siomething like 7.5 ft-lbs, but I think the suck ass bolts break at 7.6 ft-lbs. Anyway I just used a little pick and worked on the broken bolt and it just screwed right out of the hub with very little effort. You should be able to extract the broken bolt and just replace the bolt for around 1$.

Do you prefer Filet Mignon or Hamburger?

It sucks in CA now you can only "legally" buy the air tight suposedly spill proof gas cans. For a while the motorcyle shops were selling the 5 gal vented cans with the 2' weenies but you had to call them "Utility Jugs" when refering to them just like you cant say "Bong" when your in a head shop looking at "water pipes" or "tobacco pipes". The new spill proof jugs like the one in jegs look like they wouldn't be too bad, but the El Cheapo walmart cans suck! I could piss out 5 gallons faster! I've spilled more F-in gas with these new POS cans than I ever spilled in all of my past years combined! I even had to retrieve the POS spring loaded nozzel out of my tank one time when it shot off the end! Fortuneatly I have 3 of the old school "race Jugs;" vented cans with the 2' weenie ends.

Dont go over a +2 for trails, believe me on most surfaces with dirt tires you'll just spin the tires with a +4 swinger, now in sand with paddles its a different story. I would reccommend Keep the stock swinger for now. T5's $550 .030" Shaved head $50 Timing plate set at +4 $40 Lightned flywheel $50 If you really want to get crazy Port cylinders $400-$550 (something like passionre's hot MX 12 port) With port job you'll need new pistons $175

Yeah, be sure to clean out the case, make sure the pieces of piston are gone. As far as the new piston goes, as long as you buy the same exact brand and make of piston that is being used they should weigh within a certain tollerance of each other anyway. I wouldn't even change the rings on the good side as long as it didn't get leaned out or burnt at all. Unless of coarse you have to remove that cylinder to help clean out the case, then you may as well throw on a new set of rings. Be sure to take it easy and break in the new piston and rings. If you do keep the same rings on the remaining good piston remember that the side with the new piston and rings will run differently than the existing side for a while untill it has a few heat cycles. Remember to heat cycle the motor a couple of times and let it cool all the way down before riding it after installing new rings.

You could easily do 19cc domes on 110/92 50% mix. I wouldn't recommend getting to crazy with the compression untill you know if the crank has been welded through, 20 cc domes are considered reasonable on a stock crank, 19 are starting to push it, especially if your cylinders are ported and you are making a fair amount of HP over stock.

I see a lot of nice new radiators for sale on the net for around $350, but I'm looking to pay a fair amount less than that. Used would be fine as long as its in good shape. Got to keep my cubs cool.

Bones you should be fine with a 280 main with the air box lid on and snorkel removed, probably a hair rich. The aftermarket foam filter will flow the same as stock and jetting wont change unless you open the air box lid. You might benefit on you off idle throttle response with a 27.5 pilot. On your plug chops you are looking for a 2mm tall band on the base of the porcelin. Your band looks at least 2mm but a bit light because you probably didn't have it WOT for quite long enough to get a solid band. I used to have to do a wot run to the top of 6th and immediately turn around and do it again because I could only hold it WOT for a second or two in 6th. You should notice that your banshee will spit fluid a lot less often after it does it a couple times and only due it when it is truely overheated or you stop at the top of a big hill climb and dont let any fluid circulate to cool it off. Banshee's are like those sharks that will die if they quite swimming and moving water through there gills, you got to keep a banshee moving forward pretty regularly to keep air flowing throught the radiator so it will stay cool. Engine ice coolant and a billet impeller will help alot too.

Easiet way to jet your banshee is to head over to my house with a cold 12 pac.

Sounds like dajogejr's getting you dialed.

They dont make a 235, (Mikuni mains come in incremets of 10) they do make a 230 which would probably be closer to what you need, your probably a bit rich now.

BenBB Jetting FAQ This is a great jetting how to article. You need 27.5 pilots air screws 1.5 turns out Needle on the 3rd clip from the blunt end (no needle adjustment needed from stock). 310 main jets Dont forget to reconnect the choke tube between the carbs, that gets nuebies every time. Leave the carbs connected to the cables, just pop them out to the side, take off the bowles, change main and pilot jets and adjust air screws and you'll be good to go in a half an hour as long as you dont F-up.

Keep the box. You will not notice any power increase. The box helps the filter stay clean longer too so I wouldn't cut any extra holes in it. It will flow plenty of air with the lit off. Pods are a pain in the ass but the only way to fit bigger cabs.

Like loco said, there were a couple dyno comparisons a while back and Rockets did a little better in his case and CPI did a little better on a dyno done by Passionre. Rockets and CPI are very similar. If you are considering trading your CPI big bores for some Rockets, send me a message. Ive been wanting to try a set on my +4 stroke 68mm cub motor. I have chozen performance pipe seals and spark arrestors to go with the rockets too. They are still in very good shape, they are the older style silencers, just been polished and repacked, these pipes were made by the original builder and I bought them through Minkia68 who used to sell them on this site.

How bad do you want a set? I might be able to part with mine for a decent price.

Vito's has them $60 per side.