spoin39

Well, unfortunately I got called back to work after being laid off since july. I should have some vacation days coming so I still might be able to go. Mrmatt has offered to ride with him and fixitrod said he might fly, so I still have options. I hope I can go cuz it will be a great time and I would hate to miss it!

I don't think the bottoming out is the problem. 18" paddles don't hook up because of their size and it changes the gearing alot (less top-end) which is usually bad for the dunes. I'd go with 20-22" haulers.

I agree, T5's are a great pipe!

mm, not inches. I guess I should have been more specific. Sorry about that.

I have done this in the past also with a dremel and being very careful! Just make a outline so you don't go any farther than needed and you'll be fine. I am not a engine builder, just a experienced 2-stroke home garage type, so if unsure ask a builder or piston manufacturer to be safe.

I would say 290-300 in summer and go up in winter, Toomeys like at least 280 with just pipes, so 290-300 should work great when it's warm, go up a size for every 20 degrees drop in temp for winter.

Kotin6: You will be way too rich with those pilots on the mods you had listed. If you need to go up on the pilot I would only go one size (27.5), even with my mods a 30 was a tad too rich. The mains are very close I would guess. SLTbanshee: I usually run a 320 in the winter and runs great, but I run the lid, I think you would be about the same, maybe a size up if no lid and if it doesn't get less than 40. About a jet size up for every 15-20 degrees.

On just a ported engine they work good, if you change the port-timing then the T5's are better. I had a long conversation with a tech there and this is the confusion. Porting is OK for the T6, but if the port-timing is changed you will see more gains with the T5's. The more it is modified "internally" the better the T5's outperform the T6's. I posted my conversation in a mods/parts forum somewhere awhile back.

If you guy's haven't been to the Badlands in Attica Indiana you ought to look into it. It's about 5mi. off of hwy 41, probably about a 2hr drive for ya. If you decide to go let me or Mrmatt know and we will meet you there and give directions. It's about 6-700 acres of woods, sand dunes (small), and hills. It used to be a couple of old gravel pits. I know the owners real well and have alot of ammenities like, food, parts, camping, and a shop for repairs. All you need is a flag and they sell them there. $15 gets you in or $20 for 2 days.

Measuring from side to side at crankshaft .25-.75. Anymore and junk it.

You mainly want them to go up and down at the exact same time. Watch them close when you just touch the throttle to see if they react at the same time and adjust accordingly.

If it is about 30-40 degrees colder on the average I'd say 300. Also, do you mean the needle when you said other "jets" or the pilot? The needle might need to be raised a clip but the pilot should be OK for SST's.

It sounds like you are too lean on the pilot, I think banchetta mentioned this already, go up a size on the pilot, turn the airscrew out a turn from where it is now and give that a try.

If it still runs bad after the carb cleaning, check the compression, I would guess you need to freshen up the engine.

Not dissin the CPI's or anything, they are a good pipe. My friends and I drag and hillclimb alot, one has CPI's and the other has T6's, both are stock and both are very good riders, the T6's are about 1-1/2 bike lengths behind me and the CPI's are just behind him everytime. You can see my mods so that is why they are behind me but this is just my experience firsthand. The CPI's are good, I just personally like the Toomey's!

Your dad's GPS needs calibrated also!

If you already have the SST's I wouldn't bother with buying a set of the DMC's. I'm not knocking them but the SST is a good pipe and I doubt you would notice a difference worth the while and money.

We can't tell you exactly but a good guess is to go up 2 sizes on the main, move the needle up (move clip down a notch), and adjust the airscrew in till it has good response.

I would go up a size on the main and check it out, get that right then worry about the needle and pilot, they may be OK but might need to be a little richer. As far as the buddy goes they probably came prejetted. Try them out and see how it runs, may need to be adjusted for his mods a little to be perfect. Most all jetting is learning to read what the bike wants and how to adjust for it, for more info go to the jetting faq.

Worth there weight in gold after you set-it-up to your likeing.

I've been sold on the Holeshot XCR's. I bought a set a few years ago and going to replce w/same this year. They hook up great and wear very good. I run 20x11x9 for play and 22x11x9 for GNCC, for the fronts I run 21x7x10 holeshots and for GNCC I use 23x7x10.

I would forget the reed spacers , they don't really help, and go with V-force reeds instead of the boyesons'. Also like was said, go with Paul Turners for low-mid power, and stick with the stock carbs for best low-end too.

Wheeleymaster99: Open up the throttle cover cap, see the red/black button that the throttle hits when you let off? Take a knife and cut it off so the throttle doesn't hit it when you let off. Or you can take all that shit off by disconnecting it, but this way is easier. Hope this cures the problem.

If you like to jump (big) the 10" paddles get flat spotted on the beads. I switched to 8" rims and don't have that problem anymore. If you don't do a lot of jumping then the 10" are fine.

I would keep the box if you ride trails, the 280 is a good starting point, do a plug check to see if needs to go up higher after you ride. Make sure you are 3-4th gear wide open and kill the engine, then check. You want a nice even tan-light brown.