spoin39

Stay away from them for normal riding. I bought a set of 19" fronts for MX and they are so low I bottom on the face of some jumps. Go with at least 20" but I would stay with 21" for play riding.

Well I'm glad you got it fixed! I think we all knew it was electrical but not sure which part, sometimes it takes alot of trial and error to find it. Have fun on the ride!

Just a tip, if you only have the tether for a kill switch you will wear it out alot quicker. I use the stock kill and the tether for racing only.

Go to a shop and just look around, check out the used bikes too. You can find some good used ones for cheap$. I bought a Ninja ZX-9 2 yrs ago from a friend for under $6,000 including helmet, jacket, and chrome wheels and the bike only had 472mi. on it! I love it but if you are getting back into streetbikes after not riding for awhile and just for transportation, I would look at the Suzuki Bandit 600, Yamaha FZ6 for starters. It depends on the budget, but don't get anything less than a 500-600cc or I think you will regret it. It doesn't have to be a fast bike, but you will want a little power to get you out of some situations on the road. And they will last longer since they don't have to work as hard. Happy hunting! P.S. State Farm has very reasonable rates for bikes if you have a good driving record, mine is less than $450 a yr. for full coverage.

Redline Lightwieght Shockproof Gear Oil.

I 2nd that!!! LSR axle the only way to go!

I can't understand what you are trying to ask. Recheck the spelling please.

Boyeson cages or just reeds on stock cages? If on stock I say get the V-force! If they are the cages/reeds from boyeson, I say get the V-force! I guess I'm trying to say get the V-force!

We are all trying to help but it is hard sometimes to diagnose the problem when we are not there! All we cam do is give you ideas, and if you read some of these post people say they have done this and that only to find out later they only thought they checked it. Don't get shitty with people that are trying to help you out! Now, did you check the stator plate, CDI box yet? Check those out and get back to us.

Haspin is alot more wooded but close to the same size. Gumby: What are you worried about? I'm sure you will be fine but, haspin is about 2hrs S.E. of Attica if that helps.

I guess I'm not so dumb after all!

Never had one snap on me, had'em for 5 years now.

It is better to put a micrometer on them to be sure. Usually you get the piston and then match the bore to it to be absolutely positive on the size.

You could probably make the FMF's work but you can also mod the stockers to work. Take the rear plastic off and silencer, measure or eyeball how much of the stock spark arrester to cut off so it will fit. It is easier to use the stock rubber exhaust clamps and a pair of worm gear clamps to seal it good with.

The replacement V-force reeds for mine was $92 and that is with a discount, also don't put the reeds on the "LOW" setting. They will wear out 3 times as fast. I'm speaking from experience here. When bought new I set them at low and lasted one season, after I replaced them I set them at "high" and just replaced them this winter after 3 seasons. Also I would suggest putting some locktite on the small screws that hold the reeds together just to be safe.

Check it before you put the cover on, that is how you adjust it. Boon is right on the arrow not lining up, it should be about 1/8" past the case mark when right on.

I hope this is a "money no object" poll!

I will vote for memorial day also, anybody else have suggestions? I have talked to some guys at the local motoshop and they are interested too. Most don't ride banshees (they can't handle the power) but all is welcome. Invite anyone that would be interested, the more the better!

A shee will usually get the holeshot and run from a 125. I raced alot of bikes and it is close in a 300' drag race. My buddy has a new CRF450 Honda and we are very close. He starts to gain on me half way and beets me 75% of the time. The power band is alot alike. A stock-slightly modded banshee has little bottom end and needs to be revved and clutched alot to get the power out of it just like a 125. Get one and you won't be sorry, they are a blast!

Hey Ben, I haven't ever entered a desert race (since I live in Indiana) but the GNCC races I enter are 2hrs long and the courses are about 8-11 mi long. I have to stop for fuel, usually after lap 2 but this should give you an idea of how much fuel you will go through. I only have a 300main but I figure I get 7-8 mpg. Also since I am running woods i am on/off gas, only in open areas can I pin it so I would guess you will use much more. I would refuel after the first lap. Goodluck!!

Needle up, clip down. Only if it is like 50 degrees colder than normal. I haven't changed my needle setting for winter ever just main, but I doubt it would hurt.

I would run 300 with lid, 320 w/o and a 340 with clamp ons. As for the needle 3rd from bottom and a 27.5 pilot 2 turns out would be a good start, always do a plug check, no one can be exact just our estimates. I have a similar setup so this should be close.

I agree that you need to be around a 320+ main with no lid and K&N, but just go up one size on the pilot at a time. Start with a 27.5 and turn the airscrew out 1-2 turns if the more you turn it in the better it runs down low then go to a 30.

I have AC's but not with the pegs, mine bolted right up.

Just get the EBC replacements, not much money and work fine.