spoin39

It worked great! We live near the rural area so we just hop on and head for the country roads. We dove through ditches and used interstate overpasses our little snow dunes and carved them up, what a blast! It is hard to go wide open cuz it would just spin no matter how fast you were going, we also go to a local gravel pit and try to climb the hills there that we climb in the summer. Sometimes not successfull but still a blast. I never had my carbs freeze like some but one guy has Paul turners on and the melt the snow as he goes thru and it freezes on his carbs. He is the only one with those oioes and the only one that gets stuck throttle.

It doesn't matter what it is as long as it is jetted right it will run at any speed.

I think it was an 82 YZ80, My parents never thought I would live to see my next birthday! I wanted to be evil kneivel so baaaaaddddd!

The screws on the cap are for synchronizung the carbs so they move at the same time. The idle screw that was missing from the carbs would cause that side to be lean, I think you need to go up 1 size on the pilot (27.5) and turn the airscrew out 1.5 turns. The main also needs to be increased to about 240 like was mentioned.

Actually it is more dense, more dense more air in.

310-320 should be fine, do a plug ck to know for sure.

If I were you I would get rid of the TORS. It will fail on you sooner or later and usually at a bad time. EXAMPLE: Some friends were looking for a down jump off a cliff at a local riding place, We found one a little higher than we wanted but had a perfect hill to land smooth on about 20' down and 30-40' out. Of course I had to try it first so as I gained my confidence (this was a make or break jump) I approached the edge and just before I left the ledge I goosed it and nothing! Needless to say I didn't make it and had to go to the Hospital for broken ribs, torn muscle in knee, and a screwed up quad!

The easiest way to fix it right is to replace the shifter, it comes with the rod and chager linkage and only cost me about $28. I get a discount but shouldn't be much more. I hate to admit it but I replace it as soon as this happens to me every couple of years.

I made a set of skis from a Vmax sled I had and run paddles on the back. The skis are only good if there is alot of snow, otherwise just use tires and keep it in a higher gear so yopu don't spin as much and some clutch.

From the post it is hard to determine the smoke. Try a fresh set of plugs, make sure the airfilter is clean, and the tank has fresh gas (dump out old). The carbs I assume are clean since you just had them off. If it does it again after this white is coolant, blue is too rich but sometimes it is hard to tell what color, depends on where you are:outside/inside.

They are a good shock made with good materials. So are PEP, AXIS, OHLINS, WP,PENSKE, and WORKS. Some are way better than others to a serios racer, but for most people they don't need $2500 in shocks. Works makes some good shocks that are 100% better than stock and don't cost much.

The electrical you disconnected was the TORS system. Take the tors box off under the tank and get rid of it all, it makes things much easier.

Check to make sure that the shift change lever(inside case) didn't loose contact with the shift star. This usually results in getting stuck in 1 or 2 gears though, but worth a check.

Are the A-arms you got adjustable? If they are camber adjustable use a straight edge and protractor to get the exact amount you want by adjusting the upper and lower balljoints.

Just the fact that it never overheats, and my radiator and cooling system never had any corrosion with engine ice. The water wetter worked OK but did overheat once in awhile and always left gunk in my overflow. Not saying WW is bad, just not as good.

My compression is at 158 and run race fuel for the event, I think I'm going to send it to Jim for a stroker, Got room for another Jim????

Those tests were also done by scientific methods, not real world and use. I used to use the water wetter but tried the engine ice and never switched back.

Just my 2cents too but I love Redline Lightweight Shockproof Gear Oil, it comes in a light blue bottle and looks like smurf jizz but works great!

Adjust like rod said by the little nuts on top of cap, if they don't go up or down all the way either you put them in backwards or there is something in the bore.

It sounds like you need to move the needle up a notch, check your floats to see if they are set right (20-22mm). I agree that the mains should be richer but that is not the problem at 1/4 throttle.

I have been running the Engine Ice for 4-5yrs. and never had a problem. Tore down last year for rebuild and all was very clean, no corrosion at all. Never overheated with it either.

The more you take it apart and modify the more you will learn, if you have problems, come here and ask.

Sorry guys, I meant stroker. The guys that beat me most always have the following. 250R w/CR500 engine, and a 370 banshee. Both have a +2 swingarm but I am so close I don't want to do that. The hill has a jump about 10' from the line and another about 12' after that, If you roll the first and get a good drive at the second there is a indention in the hill to land a "double", then about another 150' to the top. They run 4.7-5.1 consistently, I run 5-5.2 all the time. I am the most consistent but that don't pay squat! We are all friends but I want to be right there with them! Any help is appreciated!

260 sounds a little lean even for warm weather. In winter I think you would be more like a 320 if it is around 40 out.

What is in for summer? What temp is normal for summer? Just go up a jet size for every15-20degree drop in temp and it should be fine.