camatv

i would go all around the w.p drive gear and make sure there is no chipped or damage tot he gear ( very unlikely) if the gear is to tight on the water pump gear that might cause that. it maynot have meshed all the way when you installed it ( doubtful) i have seen many plastic gears get broken from being hammerd on to the case installing the cover WOW> i always makesure the gears mesh nicely when assembling its kinda bitch. check the section in the case where the pump shaft gets support. check and make sure thebillet gear is seated all the way? if the crank bearings are moving around might case the wear also. i personally use all the OEM water pump parts also.

9's i'm sure glad the only reason to go for this trip is to drag race... oh yea and all the fun we have too kinda forgot about that.. what other "sponsor's are heading down? be great to see some people supporting the sport. instead of just constantly talking down on this area.

any decent shop can do the work. the lasleeve is not really a "new" design or something way crazy.. an appropriate "drag port" depending on all the factors would be easy to do on that cylinder/ as long at the head is sealing good and the cylinder is sound throughout. they had issues with the heads blowing o-rings a bunch. these days i'm sure it was because of a flaw and the bad dome designs. i often wonder how a lot of those older cylinders would run these days with the much better pipes and the much better dome designs some shops have.

thats what i have had in my shop springer.

get the synch and idle/ off idle performance really close. it should only take 1 -2 "whacks" on the throttle to clean out and rev nice. then set main and PJ. tune to your plugs and what the motor wants. if your needle, slow, and idle performance is shitty how are you supposed to tune the main and top end ( pj) and be consistent?? this is the problem i see a lot of the times. dont get to heavy on the main. they can suck the bowls dry faster and cause false PJ opening tune setups. ( if that makes sense) at least you found the air leak!

its just i mean ya know um well see here is the deal um yea

grease in the seals?

that radiator setup looks a lot better. using just the lowers made that possible huh.

i have and use mine quite often. i got the 1000 lbs capacity one. it seems built much better. they are excellent for small space and working on bikes, tire swaps etc. for 200-300 bucks they can't be beat. much better than those retarded atv lifts.. i also have a real atv lift. its nice also but the small one gets used a lot. they are really good at moving bikes around that have no swingarm or the front end is off etc. the holes in the front i use for strapping them down.

yup.. its nice to see more places concentrating on existing motor combos that are more practical.

14 ext's then it will hook up

drilled cap or big holed billet cap, pingle fuel valve, big fuel lines, carbs set up for alky ( preferably lectrons so you can ride and not have to pull your hair out from jetting issues) a very very strong ignition, stock works fine but you need to make sure its all in good shape. plugs gapped to 18 tho. and preferably alky domes ( but gas domes usually work ok. alky domes made correctly actually work well on gas also. to do alky well a lot of timing is needed. with lectrons, and dyna you can actually switch to gas very very easily and quickly . a dyna with a gas map and an alky map flip a switch, change to gas needles, ride. this process can be done easily in about 10-15 minutes. if you want to run both

should be fun

yes. scienteefic fo shoo

HEY i rember those pipes.. they had the larger silencer /stinger size welded on after the chrome was done... i will pay scrap price for pipes...

ok i stopped reading about page 3. i just would like to add why i run 1-5.. i'm a fat ass. when i had a 2-5 i would consistantly shred 2nd gear launching it that way. the motors i build create a lot of tq. i tire/ gear them to try and get out of the hole as hard and as fast as possible. going to the 1-5 helped out a shit ton. i run 15-16 front and 40-41 rear. 14 extreme's in a 72-74 roll. i also start in deep ruts on the dunes and try to load the engine as hard as possible. bike weighs about 280lbs and i weigh the same. when i started snapping 2nd i weighed 220 lbs. using the 1-5 override the first shift is very very quick. i have taught this to a few people and they have also loved the 1-5 style launch. others not so much. those are the riders i see that hold 1st way to damn long. and the motor goes way into overrev and looses a ton of power/ and velocity. to me also there is the useage of 5th gear better. a 1-5 can handle a lot more gear. i try to gear to hit at LEAST 80+mph on the sand. with the 1-5 its very easy to do and still have a decent gear to launch with these are just my experiences using this style of trans in a bunch of differnt motor combo's/ ( 350cc up to a 535._) some use a 2-5 and others like a 1-5 all i'm going to say

hell try 198/ 130 if your light and on alky you can go to 200/132. hell of a LOT more than just port timings in getting a motor to run worht a shit. take a bad ass port job and crappy frame set up vs a good frame setup and box stock porting.. guess who would win..

maybe "they" is wrong.

there are other reasons its gone possibly.. if its a n down it keeps you from shifting to far. and go into 6th ( a dead gear)

shearer/ sniper at least those 2 seem to work. and you can still get to your plugs..

my slingshot says "slingshot gigot engineering... it also has 2 screws that hold the plate on when you take it off. there are extended bearing pushers around for lockups, and the such. i just happen to know a dude that has a bunch ( some are even 4140 steel!)

i think i would take a few "blems" to play with ha ha.. this is a brand new company and like so many it seems these days the concept is there it just takes time. and if they have little to no investment income to support the entire development process it can take a very long time. to me at least when you are pretty picky about quality of an outside built product things can go wacko really quickly. lectron carbs are pretty weather friendly in all reality. much more than any other carb i have personally used. SO since these are based off that design AND are an upgrade to a basically 30+ year carburetor design they SHOULD work excellent. it jsut sucks that the company ( like so many others) has promised something and because of things mostly outside their control they are having issues..

welllll i might have to beak it out OR if i get a wild hair up my ass might just go ahead and rebuild it hmm

motor bolts right in. stock banshee pipes dont line right up they need modified that's easy. mounting all the electronics and making sure they all work that's different unless you have a complete wrecked RZ 350 street bike its a LOT of money. for the power you get and the overall cost you can build a very nice 400-421 cheetah PV motor, that will destroy powerwise the rz engine. please DONT strip a rebuildable rz350 street bike just to try and get it into a banshee, thinking that your going to have a 100 hp motor with just a bolt in.

i know in my yfz conversion i left the forks in the same place. after i took them out of the dishwasher i put them right into the silverware drawer. seemed to work the best there.