camatv

redline is a great shop and person to deal with.. the trans i offer is similar to most others out there except i do a "package" unlike others i have heard of i wont do just a drum or just a shifter or just the gears. its a complete "package" its like baking a cake. you have to have all the ingredients just right or you end up with something that just isn't quite right. at the dunes i may act a lil goofy but hey thats my vacation! i take all the aspects of the trans mods that i do here very seriously. every one is installed in a case and tested to run through the gears like i want it to. if there is any issues i fix them right here. if anyone has problems with one of my trans i will do whatever it takes to take care of it. the ones i do dont have issues because if there is a problem i stop and we take care of it. if i wouldnt install it in my wife's bike and let her go ride i wont send it to you either. just the way i look at it.. duneables are interesting in the way they work BUT they will always have shift fork issues. overrides are the only thing to use if your running a real serious drag bike. the riding conditions vs trans U need redline listed above are spot on. oh and i have blocked all of matt'socal posts so i dont even read them anymore. not sure what his deal is truthfully.

the only reason the banshee has it is because of a factory yamaha racer demanded it on a dirt back way back in the 80's the "boost bottle" was his thing. the 3 wheeler had it and the banshee and a bunch of dirt bikes. a few years after that the factory ditched it on the dirt bikes and that was the end of that. welll because they didnt want to retool for the good ole money making bitch that was banshee they just left it on there. no other 2 stroke has a "crossover tube " that i know of. to make it simple more crankcase volume hurts performance, but can lessen the pipe "hit" now back in the 80's pipe hit was super violent making it hard to control some dirt bikes. of course they came a very long ways in that regards and lessening crank volume didnt stick.. so before everyone goes runnign out to the garage to measure their crank volume modern 2 strokes have pretty minimal crank volume issues. most dirtbikes even end up with stuffed cases and crank stuffers to lessen it even more.. that helps keep the fuel/air moving and going into the transfers where it belongs.. just my view on it. the "intakes" that have the tube are just asking for air leaks. most DO leak eventually ( sometimes right out of the box WTF) and are total crap as far as i'm concerned

sounds interesting.. best i have used is master formula.

they have been discontinued for a very long time... i just happen to have a few sets left.. think i even have a "skull" in there.

do the domes come out of the head or are they cast in?

yea i know.. plus it handles big dudes like me !

post shows it was put up in 2012

you built a 421 4 mill and didnt need a "cool head? so i'm taking it that who ever built it custom cut the stock head? i really hope you have a billet basket in there. and some transmission mods or it will never shift and the first clutch drop you do ( if its making any power) will blow the basket to shreds if your just riding around 36/38 lectrons would work great. or 35 or 36mm pwk's. ( i have a set for sale) drag racing id ditch the t-5's and look for some other pipe, then do 39-41mm carbs with alky.

that thing with a banshee motor in it would be unrideable let alone dangerous. with a pipe sticking out the side whats going to happen when you drop it? those bw's are very small bikes. thats a 200cc 4 stroke in there. like a 200x would have. its already jammed in there.. a moto 4 with a banshee motor is much more "doable" its at least 4 wheels so not as much likely to drop on its side.. and like that video. it kinda looks ok even with big phhhiiiaaaaps sticking out the side

been kinda looking for a track chassis..

sweet! spend every upgrade buck on suspension. dont mess with the motor. seems right now its tame enough to actually ride.

buy 38 40 45 50 52 and install each one till it feels better.

yes but why not get some that make a lot more hp?

ride it the way it is first and consider what you really want to do. i'd lean towards 400ex engine banshee motor would look retarded in that chassis.

better tire it down with that short of an arm on that big of a motor..

the pic up there all by itself is right. 87 has the big balloney rear tires those only lasted that one year i believe. then they went to the big ass rear hub and 10" rear tire. the larger pics of all the color combo's i believe a few of them are mixed up or same pic in differnt years. the 87 looks just like a few others. gold wheels and all.. i'd like an 06 yellow and black limited edition bone stock ( looking). that would be nice to have..

big motor big tranmission means you can never let off the throttle... chop it once stutter the motor once and bonk! there goes the shift fork. those look like forks i have taken out of a lot of "duneables"

clutch slip. not shifting under load either its not an override, or there are issues with the gears dragging, drum is junky, the ramps are jacked up, the shafts are bent, the forks are jacked up. gett eh clutch to grab right and then make sure the shift shaft parts are all correct. if the trans only came with the racks and the drum and you reused your old shifting parts they maybe very worn and not pulling hard enough on the star.. most overrides are very easy to shift when everything is working right. if the clutch bushing is "froze" to the shaft the clutch wont disengage very well due to the increased load from the clutch basket. instead of both pieces being able to slip only the bushing on the basket is able to turn thats hard on them and creates more heat on t he shaft. prelubing that point on assembly with a good assembly lube mix is very crutical i see this happen all the time. also breakdown of oil from too much clutch material can make this happen as well as crappy lube ( atf)

one piece will fit much better. if its case matched most 2 piece gaskets wont seal.

i sent ya a reply.. pull the flywheel off and see if there is rubber bits in that seal area. or if there is a lot of oil residue.

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NEVER run any flywheel other than OEM used stators are just that used. if you have bought ones that had issues later welp thats probably why they got sold.. the only stators i sell that are used i know for a fact ran or i ran on one of my bikes.. electrical issues can just "happen" also stuff breaks.. wiring issues are very easy to find IF you know what to look for. loosing cont on the red/green after its warm indicates a broken wire in the stator windings. stator heats up wire looses contact. stator cools down wire gets contact again.. make sure your chassis ground is solid. the OEM one at the back by the cdi breaks often OR gets a lil loose and will still make the bike run but has issues. i personally like to ground the coil neg right there at the mounting points. also clean to bare steel on the coil mount and also use dielectric grease on all your ground connections. make sure your stator ground is solid on the stator plate. that it isnt rusty or jacked up. also check the stator plate just incase its some cheap ass painted cast ones. ( only seen that a few times) the motor ground is very important and that lil bitty stator ground wire is all it has.

depends on the dome shape.. shelf 18cc yea not going to happen. hope your crank is welded at least also.

why not do a set and dyno it yourself. then you have full control over the rest of the motor. and really from my experience you can build a motor hand it to someone and it never run right, due to bad parts or bad installation. doing cyls for free your asking for trouble.. just my opinion.

post pics of the gears where the dogs are. does the drum have a bearing. post a pic of the shifter.. looks like really shitty packing. while back i got a bunch of milling cutters, welp i got a empty paper envelope! i couldnt believe they shipped 20lbs of steel in a paper envelope.