camatv

even with a lockup you still have to have clutch cable freeplay!!! about an 1/8th -1/4 inch at teh handle AND you should be able to push the lever back a lil you need to make sure the clutch arm is in alignment, the boss and pressure plate surface is flat the springs are correct for the bike AND your using motorcycle specific transmission oil... the street bike clutch will STILL burn up if all that is out of wack.

wow didnt even know they did that around here. where the heck is troy kansas?

i feel the best lowend pipe out now is the t-6. banshee cylinder really really benifit from at least a clean up port at least one that involves matching the trasnfers as well as the rest of the ports of course its not much more to do a lil more work in there also. BUT if you really want low end TQ and grunt you should seriously think about a raptor 700 hate to say it but they are a blast in the trails.. and have a lot in them for hp capacity and reliablity....

i would love to try a set on my 535 as of now with the pv's it explodes out of the hole .. ( and i was told they would just slow it down..) i am also interested in the r-2 out frame pipes!!! i'll be watching both!!.

well it seems to me the 10% that DO at least know the difference between in frame pipes and pipe clamps are the ones that will be interested in this thread.. including myself.. i have a junky 485 cheeta and a old ass 535 powervalve motor i could offer up for testing if wanted.. both currently have shear pipes on them. also have a 421cc stock cylinder thats set up in a MX chassis to use if wanted.. i started a thread to "discuss" these pipes over there ( atvdragracers)..

most port work i have seen is very very similar.. mostly i have seen differences in where a different builder/ porter feels the durations should be for certain rpm, HP output. i havent seen M+M'S ( that i know of) and only seen the multi port design of jim's in stockers.. not any CUB's or CHEETA's/.. i do know that my certain powervalve port is kinda weird in some builders minds... but it works great for me.. if there is going to be a meth and gas version i think thats a first!!???? i ALWAYS thought that a pipe shouldnt run the same for gas to alky and not sure why the porting, dome, carb, reeds can all be specific for alky but the pipe was the same? i REALLLY hope that this thread dosent get deleted i see it as an introduction to a new product and not necessairly a selling point for them.. i posted a new thread over at atvdrag for these pipes that wasnt started by JIM hopefully it can be a discussion and not noted as an advertisement?

run down the road and grab a set and post the results. i think that would be very very sweet!!

on a trail/ woods/ wheelie bike i would keep the t-6's.. they are a sweet bottom end pipe and react well to real low end porting ( higher transfer number and velocity.._) i LOVED them on my trail bike. best throttle response EVER!@

i just hope my buckets survive sand fest to make it for this get together!! i'd LOVE to see a 4 mill/ 350cc stocker cylinder duneathon!!. i know there are a few sneaky lil 10's ( oh its a 350 right?) floating around also.. how about a nerf bar shoot out;? HA HA i'll be down for some tree shots and crusin i'm going to try and get the "spare parts" 350cc going for this trip./.

it will probably runa lot better!

jet the bike like you normally would..

reply'n to CAL AKA kickstartmyfart well you know what i say only way to know for sure what pipe you like the best is to slap them on the bike and give'r a whirl. i would say these would feel similar to cpi's with more overrev.? its a 4 mill motor stock cylinder with 198* exhaust and 130* transfers its got t-5's and vforce 30mm pwk's as of now. not sure how those specs compare to what these pipes like?

oh and yea also when you are ready to trash them i'd like a shot at them also.. now that i think about it i have an OLD set of ste's? or cpi's silenced opp sides they are solid mount and they have never been re welded?

if you solid mount them they will break. any pipe will do that. cpi's break, GRR's ( i dont know about the rdz's?) the same sides i had DID have a plate on them where they mounted to eachother and the lower mount to the peg was reinforced also. they did crack after a few years. it sucks they are made out of a very thin metal.. i do rubber mount OR just loose mount the other outframe pipes i have and dont have nearly the breakage issues.

never had an issue with cooling i've used the water wetter. the engine ice is just distilled water ( what your sapposed to use) and blue coolant.. i just buy a gallon of 50/50 mix anymore. easy to use and not nearly as insane in price.

its a VW webber sync tool you may be able to find it at any vw performance/ buggy shop for about 35-40 bucks. OR even order one from EMPI. its called a squirrel cage synch tool there are other types out there but that one is the easiest to use on our types of atv's ( banshee's) it measures the intake velocity/ flow and enables you to set the carbs to the same set the idle then you can set the synch of the cable.. very neato.

i didnt know LRD was defunkt.. that place was around for a long time...

i have seen polished ports have as much if not more carbon build up at times. smooth exhaust pipes will have a lof of build up internally i still polish them at times for customers but its mostly just for the ( WOW ) effect.. a large amount of build up is from wayy to much oil crappy oil or bean oils. also happens from just to rich jetting, or a low rpm motor if the exhaust gets hot enough it wont have much carbon buildup. i have had better luck with trail motors with non polished exhaust's. just about as rough as the intake, and transfer area's/ of course i am expecting to hear "oh that dosent work at all. all my cylinders are polished".. Its just what i have seen on my own motors over about 5-6 years and a couple of rebuilds.

is this your auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320536707869&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

pics of the silencers?

even an fmf fatty would have better power than the gold series..

anyone who has dg pipes realizes later what a stupid decesion they made. i cannot believe that DG ever even sold any of them they are about the worst pipe available they are a LIL better than stock.. infact i'd rather have stock pipes because at least then you have a viable excuse as to why its so slow. unless someone GIVES you a set you should pay anything for them...

i pretty much call it to hot to ride when i down 5 powerade's after riding for 15 minutes and my shirt is stuck to me and i smell like a wendy's bathroom after sandfest.. also when the heat off the sand melts your shoe's and your nuts are so greassy you cannot even stay on the seat. thats a lil on the hot side of things...

fmf FATTY"S that are not dented or damaged with PACKED silencers will respond great to mods. sst's are even better ( more overrev in my mind) i dont like the gold series the original's or the "signature series they ALL have a flat top end brick wall effect similar to the t-5's BUT the t-5's are a great overall pipe also. the t-5's also have a more aggressive sound than the fmf's the fmf's will be quieter.. i've never ran a set of rocket's OR r-2's i also have not run any pipes on stock motor's.. most pipes with porting will be in the 60-65hp range. plenty of power for that dinosaur to spank some fart cann butt..

how could you look at that picture and think its the same size as a t-4?? what do the silencers look like. any idear on pricing? what port numbers are they liking?? i'm looking for a different pipe to try on my next revvv 350 stock cylidner tryout. ?