camatv

put it together and ride the hell out of it!

a 75x58mm motor is pretty big just the cc difference would make way more tq than a 421. maybe some day i might get the chance to play with one of these. they look bad ass all polished up!!

i have an extra set of slides sitting around nto sure if they could plate them with the screw setting in there? i'd might just have to send a set in to millenium and find out..! hmm also have a local plater here that MIGHT be able to do a set. i'd be curious about the clearance. i bet you could corner the market on that if you set them up to plate easily. the 4 strokes have a big problem with them sticking also they pull harder ont eh slide and stick them often.. onder if the plating would help that also..

why can i not find ANY decent side pictures of rocket pipes i'd like to compare some to a set i found i need some decent side pics of the original rocket pipes please not from 100 ft away or black and white and hard to see just a good ole pic of the pipe. i tried the search but got pages and pages of other posts about "pipes" thanks!

i think i might have to try this on my next experiment bike its going to have either 36's or 32's alky on it. i think you would have to still set up the slides to be at the same height ( of course) and possibly need 2 screw's to match it up well. plus you would only be able to lean the idle and not richen it up unless you are adding fuel from the bowl. its a neat idear there ak.. i usually just install the idle screw on the other side of the right carb so its really easy to get to BUT the type of carb set up you have would be a lil different from the throttle cable set up.

ak's look like the ones that were set up for an RZ street bike. they have a single throttle cable on them and are connected at the top for the throttle set up. i think i know what you did you added a idle air mixture ( fuel added?) OR like injection you added a base idle air screw. ( air only) the slide stays put and the air is bypassed through your needle assembly with filter'd air, to the front of the carb its just kinda hard to see what you did with the picture and the description you have. am i right at all? interesting idear to fine tune the idle mixture you would have to change needle's and that is kinda sucky if the rest of the rpm range is right on. you could also change the cut out on the slide but that would be tricky also i would LOVE to see a set of slide released for these that are chrome or nickle plated. the oe's wear out way to fast.

hmm this gets me thinking has ANYONE ever dyno'd a set up like that against just good ole stock carbs? the 2-1's just make carb synch a thing of the past probably why the throttle response is so good BUT i'd think of it like comparing a 4 barrel carb to a 2 barrel carb on a 350 you it will run but just not quite the same huh.. and putting the 2 intakes together? wow talk about the ultimate BOOST bottle! in all reality you want to carb's slide as close to the cylinder as possible. thats why you dont really want any extra bullshit in the intake track besides reed's. no spacers, no etra boost bottle or spacer at all. i also try to match the intakes to the reeds as best as you can. even reed stuffer's if possible..

the power valve cylinder's make WAYY more bottom end and throttle response and TQ than any non powervalve small cc motor. if you want a 2 stroke that makes 50's+ in tq ( 4 stroke tq) AND high HP you need to have a power valved motor.

wow i just noticed the sub exhaust ports need a lot of work they wren't even similar in shape size from the pics i can see not sure if its the way the pics were taken? whoo.

looks to be about a 75-78% width exhaust but shape plays important on piston wear. the larger bore these are at should be able to handle 78% .. i run 75% 350's all the time BUT usually you can keep a lower % exhaust with the extra exhaust ports. keep them alive longer if needed .. if they are peeling that makes a great chance to send them in for welding and replate/ for report through millenium! who's plating them now? wish i could get a handle on a set of the 10's i could degree them out for you. cylinders could use some more work from those pics but you might be limited on what you can do. how were the old 10's stock cylinder motors set up from 10 years ago or so? i believe'd they had a spacer on top and droped the piston down farter like that. but i've never seen a set in my hand or had the chance to play with an old 10 mill stocker.

i've blown stock baskets up with around 65ish hp stock cylinder 350's.. turbo, banshee, and budget just dosent go together, and thats usually how it all starts. the variable vane self lubed turbo is the correct start for one, and then injection i feel is the next step.

lots of options and lots of opinions.. 70 tho squish!!! does he run it flat out down a hill in 6th with pump gas 87 octaine witha stiff wind behind him!!.. HA drop that cylinder down and get some of that tune back for him.! you get that motor to run right and even with just the fmf's it'll probably make him have to go change his whity tighty's.. i have a friend around here like that but he loves 3 wheelers well he had a trx with a 330esr in it really bad tune but wanted 3 wheels i told him thats a lil much for a trike on stock arm welp, cr ignition and some tuning work and there it was,, he fliped right off the back of it the first time it grabed in sand with dirt tires ripped the rear fenders right off i laughed so hard. that trike was a lot of fun later he said yea maybe its a lil bit too much!! you got to learn to walk before you launch to the moon!!

have one of your friends swap you out for the day and try the cpi's vs your trinity's i can say this now that i have a set of the most recent trinity's they are my now favorite all around pipe. i know trinity sucks but you just can't say 80's~ HP and 55's in tq on a 421 stock cylinder gas motor is weak. its a beast down low and rev's very very hard. i have some cpi's i might throw them on. but the trin's fit very nice, have bad ass silencers ( billet mounts oh yea) and stingers are double o-ring flange ( no ugly pipe sealing crappola's) as well as main pipe to cylinder flange. other than that screw trinity tho

re ringing and "light honing" will change the piston to wall clearance. the piston clearance is very important. probably more important than most think.. you cannot just keep rining a motor over and over again the rings need the fresh PROPER hone to seat the rings.. engine break in has always been a different opinion subject but after seeing how the different methods result in engine wear and piston life i personally will only do the hard break in method anymore. it also makes more sense.

a pv cheeta should be in the 90's+ on gas with a 4 mill and would be a very broad powerband. i have never ran seen the twister.. but as always i'd love to try one!

wow seems like anyone that wants these "deals" all live oversea's or canada or mexico.. (

i think CFM made one like that for easybay

the sidewinder sprokets are the best ever. the chains are absolute junk. i dont know how they even sell a chain. what i feel happens is that the strength is SO high they are brittle and you hit them hard and high HP and hook them hard they snap right off. the best chain i have had recently is the RK mkz-3 or RK mkx-4. only chain my 535 will not break and the sidewinder aprokets are the only ones that will last longer than one day at the dunes.

paint skulls all over it and then put the devil on one side and a big ass fuck you on the other then you will have a "mean bike" HA

my alky bike is over 100hp. even that listed graph with the shear's is a pretty flat tq curve. and those are top end pipes. the pv's help bring up the lower end hp on those pipes. that motor dosent peak to make the hp its a gradualy climb that just pulls and pulls. something is wrong with your motor for sure. i also agree the pipes are keeping it low but i would think the correct set up would make in the 80's also. most pv 4 mill cheeta's are easily 80-95+hp on gas. and very broad power at that with most any pipe combo. drag pipes will get them in the 100's/

all around bike? dont use a cub!

any pics of these cut up pipes yet?

put the 13tooth sproket back on..

sell it all and build a bigger cheeta if dm is not feasable. 16mil 75mm bore cheeta is a very very fast motor. i personally dont like the supers because of their head issue's. they do make nice power similar to a cheeta but with the posibilty of head failures you just dont see in cheeta's and dm's.

i must be really lost what the hell are "finger ports"? they already have boost ports in the intakes..