camatv

never thought about that trick thats a good one!! then it will look like most of the bikes i have come in here to work on!> sometimes its not about how much HP you have.. and i wouldnt be racing full out drag bikes it will be a dune piss'rr~off'r bike.

can they make them out of the same material as the cometic's? that afm? stuff its like alluminum with thin material on both sides. they are basically blow out proff even when very thin. i dont like paper basegaskets at all anymore. they had to many issue's blowing out ont he bottom escpecially on the bigger singles ( 250's and cr500's) now intake and clutch no problem. if he can make the cheeta and cub one piece for less $$ and make them in the same material i;d sure like that. also like to find a stock cylinder base one piece gasket..

oh man thats where they go!! now i know and knowin is half the battle

it is ok but they like to gum the pv's. if its an alky motor the klotz and redline meth oil is cleaner burning. if its gas anything but yamahalube and caster oils would be better dont run them on the rich side if you keep the exhaust temps higher they wont cake and carbon as fast.

i know where to get them.. but i have a burning paper in my butt.

maybe there should be a write up with pinn'n on all the OKO's mods needed to run them in a higher fuel demand motor. rember you need more air flow OUT of the bowl to feed the bowl as well as fuel. as the fuel is sucked out ( actually the outside pressure forces the fuel in) it needs as much outside air available as possible. drilling the vent tube's out probably did as much or more than making the float needle supply more. i've never messed with these carbs but i bet thats whats going on. if after a run it fall on its face OR runs on and wont idle down its lean from fuel starvation. alky carbs will do the same thing. , well some will. if it pops or falls on its face right after you hit the throttle its lean for wrong jetting.

great now you have to spend 25 bucks on a gasket set DANGIT!!

wow i'm really trying to decide something here. so someone actually sold this idear on EBAY a while back? and then did someone actually buy this thinggy.. i am just amazed it never fails.. if water wont stay in the cover it cannot turn to rust.. if you dont swamp your bike you shouldnt have an issue with water in there. i also just slap the cover on.. no gasket i dont need the gasket.. i wash my bikes a lot and the pressure can get water in there also.

mine are not trinity but are cheeta's 485 cheeta my custom porting ( for pv's) 250r custom reeds ( 4 stage) one piece custom cut head old cast style moddified stud holes ( larger so o-rings seal better) .52 squish thin band, flat dome style 1-5 override, polished and smoothed lockup with billet basket with hardened rear plate and big bolts fully welded 4 mill long rod HOTRODS crank with tz drive bearing trenched and filled cases for larger base of cylinder port matched pv's and pv plugs ( i run both at times) UPP intakes 41.3/44mm packard alky carbs accel coil stock CDI +12 timing shear pipes will wheelie a lsr frame with my 270lbs ass on a +14 arm. love this motor also have a 535..

i have a blue oversized and white front fender cut for it.. it was on a desert bike i dont need it..

umm i didnt read the whole post just the beginning BUT i'll just say you should buy a degree wheel and actually measure the ports at some time.. i will also say YOU CANNOT get a good port timing out of stock cylinders with a 4 mill long rod with a spacer plate. i just dont see it happening last one i did worked best with the thinnest ( cometic) base gasket i had the stock basegaskets even raised the port timing up to around 133-134 d on the transfer's.. they work the best with properly ported cylinders among other things and domes fitted corectelly. the 2mm thick copper gasket should work good i can see why the spacer plated motors are so slow.,. i do believe that a properly ported 350cc short rod motor can outrun a cobbled together 4 mill with ease. if you think you can do transfer work with a dremel and some bits your very lost.. it takes a 90 d tool and even then it took me a LOT of broken bits with different cuts and materials to find the ones that work well with lil to no chatter. it also takes a very strong hand to hold it if your cutting a lot at a time it takes experience.. hands down

cool let us know!

You can hear deto in a banshee with quiet pipes over 150ish they will probably deto you might be able to get the comp high but combat deto with special dome's.. anychance of getting alky? you can mix that with fuel to raise the octaine also but you will need to treat it like a full alky bike and jett for it.

OKO'S ARE CHINESE JUNK THEY ARE SET UP TO RUN A 200CC CHINESE 4 STROKE PIECE OF CRAP. my 30mm pwk's have NO problem running my 421cc stock cylinder 5th gear pinned in the sand... check your jetting, check your spark,, if you change jetting and its still the same check your cap's and plugs. you may be loosing spark at the higher rpm. to check for no fuel in bowl run the bike till it sputter's turn off the fuel and kill the bike dump the carbs and measure the fuel in the bowl. should be a full bowl. OR remove the bowls and hook them up turn on your fuel you should have a LOT of fuel flow through the needle.

if the bike has mudd all over it like in your pic its probably overheating..

cpi's are designed for ported cylinders... why not post a link to that other thread in comparing pipes i'd like to se a dyno graph of the same bike/ motor within the same hour and jetted to the pipe

post some pics of them

how about just a sip of pepsi? and one rib?

i'm going to the lake too dang HOT

the sling shot is available in an undercover style. i'm not sure if i can say who sells it because i dont want to get banned..

34mm remote choke means snomobile carbs from the 80's. they are also probably set up for a pump might need to check the float needles. 34 pj's would work better than those also. the round slide type carb is a bad design.

i used to play with a sling shot was also called a wrist rocket.. didnt know it could hold my clutch together. must be those long rubba bands. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0bfCOhERLM

that cylinder definatelly needs some work i can see why the one i "tried" to jet didnt have much bottom. there is enough alluminum in that cylinder's transfers i think it could be fixed. i just dont think there is enough balance between the flow, volume and the velocity, box stock on those transfers. i KNOW they have a very strong top end, and yes radar thats mostly what i would do except for the square roof thing on the exhaust i dont do that ever it eats pistons too much. i havent had a chance to play with one of these cylinders yet. hopefully soon. but if you wanted to alluminum sleeve, nicko plate, triple port stockers and bore to 68mm you would have way more than 500 bucks in them.

HEY!!!!!!!! who had the depfried chicken wings!!!! dangit i always miss the good stuff!! dangit!!

ha ha sweet you should put some "sights" in them!!