camatv

bet something else broke the pump gear... check the back of the basket and look for missing screws very carefully. that gear breaks but its built to break most all the motors i have checked with a broken gear have had some other type of failure that broke the gear. and YES the motor can fill up with trans fluid from a ripped seal. happens all the time from basket explosions and or bad rebuilds with loose bolts in the crankcase area. bike will smoke like nuts on that side. oh and use OEM seals when you replace them..

sell the entire bike and buy a chromo chassis. you'll loose a LOT of weight real fast/. i hate racing you lil skinny kids!!! i weigh 270lbs and then old farts keep putting these lil kid's on their drag bikes!! dangit! you can also let out a really good poop before you go race and i also let a HUGE fart off the line kinda like a rocket effect.

dang that was easy.. anymore i pretty much just trust cranworks with my crank needs... IF you are having "local" shops true/ weld ask them if they use filler on the weld.. the welds need to be done with a TIG and NO filler rod. then the cranks need rechecked AFTER they are welded..

i will have my rv AND my trailer and possibly will have jenn coming on friday and possibly a few others as well. not sure exactilly what i am going to do BUT i am planning on getting there early enough to find a good spot on the state side. i guess i can check into a spot on don's just not sure of the cost..?

that spot is also the size of the state of maine!! i'll be going sandfest for a day trip planning on the bigg week in october.

paypal is burnin a hole in my pocket?

yfz roller?

i have 3 10 ft blades off of a box blade. i have been keeping them around to weld to some pipe and make about a 20 ft wide drag it will be heavy tho i used to pull a 8 ft double, sideways behind my 300 kawai and it pulled ok this one will be much much bigger. i will have it ready for this trip for sure. i think a SXS should be able to drag it OR a truck if you really want./ a BUNCH of pallets straped together works really well also. hey are a lil lighter and can make it baby smooth out there. and they are easier to pull just take longer to work right. that what i have been using around here on the sand barrs. looks like i will try and make it down on tuesday. i think i will try to be on the park side tho.

dang i hope that weld isn't a braze.

i just tap it back in. and go about my day.

wow. let me google that for you. thats a good one..

you get any pics of that other stuff i asked you about?!?

hey where's my buttershots!!

i tell people whats in my bikes when they ask. no need to hide it. what i am tired of is hearing that my 350's are really huge 4 mills on stock cylinders. when they are actually 65mm bore stock stroke short rod 350's... guess guys with crappy set up cubs dont like getting beat that bad by a a 350cc stocker..

move the CDI up under the tank plug the stator directley to the CDI, cut the old cdi plugg off the harness orange wire goes to coil POS and black with white stripe goes to your kill switch, ground everythign else. should be a red and black wire thats the key switch ground it. coil - goes to frame ground. and same ground should supply the cdi. if you have a newer bike i think the other one is purple/ black if i rember and that one you just leave it unhooked its the park brake override. done.

powder is easy and fun to play with BUT the PREP is a bitch you have to treat the parts like if you were going to paint them that is strip clean clean clean and rember that part is going to be heated to over 400 degree's so no rubber old solvent oil's in the alluminum etc etc. i have used a few of the cheapo guns there is a nice cheaper gun available now that sprays like a expensive gun i think powder by the pound sells it? icannot rember those smaller guns struggle to do more than 2 coats. powder is actually plastic and its hard to remove and that is its hard to remove from threads, bearing surfaces, places you DONT want it are very importanat to not have it in. an ELECTRIC oven works well you acn even build a small rack to hang the parts from and then just slip it into the oven powder is fun to play with but like anything its takes a bit to really get it figured out.

those pics you posted look like the o-ring is blowing apart i cannot tell but are all those black flecks rubber material? it seems the rings are also black in color thats why i said something about the viton's i get my replacement ones from a local hydralic repair and parts company. they usually have them in stock even for any size PD o-ring also. oh also what size carbs are you running?

those pv motors are really stought mofo's it just sucks that it seems NOONE wants to run them or even advertise that they have them available. EXCEPT trinity. might be one reason that trinity's still seems to sell them? not sure how.. the o-rings you put back in MUST be viton they should be brown or orange in color ( havent seen the orange ones in a LONG time) IF they are BLACK in color they are low temp std nitrile(? SPELL) o-rings and will burn out very quickly. also with that much junk in there already you may want to pull the pv's out and clean them to make sure they dont hang up. i have also noticed ( and i'll probably get shit for this) that the head dosent just fall right on i was informed many years ago they want a tight fit for better sealing well bullshit. i drilled the head out just a teeny tiny bit the heads on both my motors just fall right down after that and the better o-rings i havent had a burnt o-ring for a very long time the seals in the bigger motor are the same from 5 years ago and i have had the head off a few times. the dont even show signs or burning or even that heat is even getting to them..

shaker's pretty cool. this motor/bike was one of the first all out drag bikes i seen in person. man that thing was impressive used yfz plastics. ( hibdon) i would love to shoe horn this hot rod into my DMR chassis. might give me an excuse to put the 18 over arm back on..

they sure run hard but the jigg that matt used must have been from a very very bent up beat up frame.

most CT's were mostlya hand coned pipe and have a round silencer a lil bigger but shorter than a pro circuit silencers some also had small turn downs on the ends of them.

might be LSr sport arms. welds look nice and clean. might also be ricky arms.

loco a 14 over arm is about as SHORT as i would go. you dont wnat to have to fight the frame to ride it. i know its fun to ride a bucking bronco but the literal acceleration of the bike will be enough to tire you out after a few back to back runs. LS sand is crazy if it rains you will have to sit on the tank to run 10 haulers, if its windy and the sand is like flour you will need 16 rippers and can sit on the grab bar and it will spin the entire run and those changes can happen over night. you can cut ruts and launch in them 3-5 times in a row and the bike will act different every time. i agree that the DM that big will want to jump out of the frame and frame support is important. 14 staggrd ext or ripp in 74-78 will be nice. worst case with your 14s is you might need to lean back a lil bit more. a motor that big and you can just blow them off in the first 2 gears 1-2nd? and then hold on when it finally grabs.. frame set up will be important also. and you seem to know how to use your weight to get traction. its MUCH easier to move back to promote traction that have to stand on the bumper to keep the front down. i didnt read all the bickering and bullshit i just tried to answer your q the best i could as i'm from the area.

thats too bad. seems your poll answers that question. any further improvements that require a dome change with a cool head are easy and cheap.