camatv

welp the truth is you run a squish like an oem cylinder can handle and a cub and super cub will warp the head and eat the o-rings and probably blow the motor up. this problem has been kinda fixed with really loose squish band (48 tho and up) and a really reinforced head for the super cub.. the cheetas never had a o-ring issue. some did have similar dome learning curve problems that resulted in dome issue's my 2 cheetas have had the same comp o-rings in them for the last 5 years.. the problem is not as likey to happen IF you are carefull with the build using a proper head on super cubs, strong studs on both, and proper dome setups is really the key to them survivng. its just for the $$$ you should really consider all yoru options it is hard to chose a cylinder these days.. at least with all the CP industies stuff available. and others like twister, la/sleeve/ESR, t-rex, and vito's out there.. BUT even with those issues i'd still consider a cub, or cheeta, or wompus cylinder to be at the top of the list.

i think it woudl be easier to install the banshee motor in a yfz chassis then modify the yfz to accept the dirt bike seat.. it would also pprobably look better also. the seat, tank intersection is just not ever going to look right maybe ona naked drag bike witha custom tank that has a slope to match the seat.. DB seats are more comfy for drag racing and moving around on.

tell the insurance company to suck a cock and switch.

well with it apart it would be best to modify the stock trans.. you WONT regret it.. the stock mod i do is removing some dogs off the actual gears, modifying the stock shift shaft, and modding the shift star. i am sure this is similar to what kevin does and a few others. these are the things i have done to my "trail, dune, MX, drag bikes the other stuff you see the spring and the lever and the majic ezpull and whatever else you read about just flat out dosent work. as much work as it is to split cases and remove intstall the motor its best to do it now.. with the power of the serval and where it comes in at its going ot false neutral all the time. escpecially from 3-4th shift and probably from 2-3rd shift.. the dogs actually bang into eachother and it kinda stays out of gear and is poped in a neutral between the 2 gears on the drum. the stock trans will handle the HP no problem.. its just what i recomend when i personally build a motor. thats all.

welp try fixing the leak? the floats are to high or you got crap in the needle and seat if your not sure what that is there is a HUGE sticky up there that explains what it all is and the inner workings of a carb

DO YOU HAVE STOCK HEAD PIPES AND SOME WACKO SILENCERS OR WHAT are the slides opening all the way try 300 mains.

this is a very quick bike

oh boy... better start saving for a engine rebuild..

welp untill someone brings a ferrari out on the strip i'm not going to be scred of a 450.. plus i cannot even fathom being able to afford one of those high rev v-12's.. i'd much rather have a corvette anyday i thought something felt differnt after i installed that throttle!!!

cheeta was the first cylinder for the banshee from cp industries. cheeta is optinal with power valves, a modern head with modern stud spacing for mucho better head seal, 250r reeds , and much simpler o-ring design, they are also very wide at the base and most all of them require top case filling for any kind of port matching. used to be they were available in 65mm all the way to 75mm bore and stock stroke to 16mm stroke. they are not as popular because of the cost of them. in my OPINION they are the best cylinder overall for the banshee available. they can produce low end like a serval with top end like a cub. they dont have as much issue with head sealing as a cub or super cub

ouch ' i thought all he had was the seat..

depends on the racers.. should there be a $$$ limit to what the race bikes cost? to get a 500cc yfz to run witha 500cc super cub or cheeta 7 mill is going to take some cash.. and i am sure the 500cc yfz with shit the crank out the cases long before the twin banshee motor would have a problem.

dude go look around your neighborhood there is probably some punk kid with them hanging off his bike making motorcycle noises or they are sticking out the back of some stupid fart can honda going beeeeee beeeeee zzzzzz.. it was some dork ass kiddo's

yea you deff dont want a cheeta cub a straight cub is much betta.. 4 strokes have to rev that high to make any power. my old 350cc rev'd to like 11,500-12k and made just under 100hp. most 450cc bikes i ahve seen rev to about 10,500 and make average of about 60ish. yippie.. what does RPM have to do with it anyways? the ds and rappy 700's are making a shit ton more HP/tq than the 450's are with less rpm/.. most of them are done around 8000 to 8500

wish i could post pics.

been done to all the ones i have been around..

4 strokes are quick and i give them respect when they deserve it. BUT that et was set buy a shop owner in a drag chassis on perfect conditions with a few YEARS of tuning.. with a shizz ton of $$$$ thrown at it. in development and in motor. for the average weekend warrior hmnm what gets me is at least around here i cannot even get the 4 strokes to race me on my dunners.. go get that cash back!! take a vid this time i love that busco beach area!

i might have to look around for 115 bucks

HEYYY thats my sister x2

why did you change the setup that you knew worked? if i was going to race a dude that called me out and said he'd got his shit together i surely wouldnt show up with a lesser set-up on my end.. you lost that 250 your self from being lazy. dang dude.! pin it to win it!!

now thats some funny shit right there i dont care who you are..

if it actually ran i doubt it.. a lil bit off is normal the stock oem base gasket is really thick.

is SS still making cylinders? that larger cc motor was one of the first out there so they had to break everythign first.. they were also sooo fast because they were the biggest thing out there. didnt see to many cheetas at that time it was the beginning of the aftermarket cylinders and the large cc banshee motors and the what i would call start of modern banshee sand racing.. i have only seen and rode one and it was a big motor 10 mill 77? or 75mm bore? it ran really good and it shoudl have it was a larger cc

as per the instructions you need to grind down the side of the carb where you drilled and tapped it needs to be shorter there for the idle screws to work corectly. dont EVER use the cable to set your idle you will get into problems

this is why they have a resy tank on them.. if you dont have a tank the expanded coolant has nowhere to go so you have to drop your level in the rad to compensate..