camatv

most 4 strokes when going to a bigger bore need cylinders due to the already thin walls inside a modern 4 stroke motor. kinda like a cub there is only so far you can go before there is just nothing left/. the lower the bore on stock cylinders with OEM sleeves the less chance of a sleeve crack. i have seen cracks start at around 65.5mm boer and mostly up around 66mm there is just not enough support in there.. reliability of any atv is nearly always due to good maintenance.

and some of you may wonder why in the hell i would do this.. all i have to say is i really enjoy stockish looking bikes that are wayy to fast.. and anyone can go out and throw money at a bike and make it quick anybody with a check book and some phone numbers can order pretty much anything you want there is nothing wrong with that just this lil project is going to take some thinking and some fabrication and ingenuity. i dont think i will see another one ever.. i have the one end of the scale large cc all out dune drag bikes. and yea they are a blast but sometimes its a LOT of fun to freak people out with a stock framed bike that looks really slow..

i'm not going to go indepth in my plans for the bike ( right now) i will say this totally stock aperance is what i am shooting for. thanks to josh i have the plastics for it . its code named barney. AHha!! ( 1996 purple and yellow full fenders ye ha!!) 4 mill is a lil to small for what i am going for. and your still not pushing it on the internals of the motor.. a lot of neato parts have come out int he last few years that will be totally unoticeable unless you really know what your looking for. i will say i am planing on running stock swing arm and worn out v paddles .. ( wheelie control) i am not planing on changing the stock pipe length i am going to change a lot with the silencers and the head pipe to main curve area. i will be attempting to make a low end/ mid motor as i dont think these pipes after mods will be able to handle much over 9k rpm wise if even that i do plan to test them on a 350cc motor i do plan on making my own steel silencers with the oem rear plates and my own stinger tubes with the OEM heat shields and OEM rubber grommets. some of my friends know of what i am planning.. i have been thinking of this build for about 3 years now. i have decided after getting these plastics that i am going to hold off on my yfz/shee project's and concentrate on this one..

actually the oil in the engine all pools up at the bottom of the motor and when you start it it has a lot of oil pooled and will burn out usually clears after a few mins of run time i personally dont like 927 and smokeless is ONLY for indoor stadiums where it is required,. i would steer clear of that crap like the plague. as you have noticed it will smoke like nuts 927 if the bike is rich at all will also cake up and carbon shit very fast pipes and exhaust ports. you need to keep a lean tune and high pipe temps to keep that crud burned off and even then it still acumulates very hevily 927 in alky is ok if i run out of klotz.

pressure test before teardown? i would say that motor will need a crank seems crak failure is causing som problems proper part replacement and proper rebuild techniques should result in good running well sealed motor..

pickup coil gap? all testing is not just ohm testing the stator.. check your grounds also and see if one of your kill switches is grounded ( white black wire at cdi)

make sure you go back with a STD style piston. the pistons and any porting long wiht the fmf gold series would have produced a very very narrow powerband. INCREASE the front sproket size can help mellow it all out. if you have a 13 on it now go to a 14 you may be very suprised .. going with a smaller front sproket makes it seem faster because your shifting all the dang time and the bike revs really quick but in all reality its slower and your having to work 2 times as hard to ride it. if you happen across some fmf fattys or SST's for a cheap price you might consider picking them up. those pipes compared to the gold series have a much broader powerband . the sst's have a great overrev compared to the std fatty. also pro circuits work well for general riding.

depends on what you would already have the bottom ends are built the same at least how i do it.. the only real differnce is the cost of the sleeve's and installing them and the cylinder porting.. so really the cost is nearly the same the power delivery is very similar from the serval ( with proper pipes and dome selection) to a well built 421 stocker. is guess sleeve's and install would probably be around 350-400 bucks. then a good port after the sleeve i'd guess around 300-450 ish so about 850 and thats not much diff in price from a serval.. BUT if your a machine shop then all it is is time and the cost of the sleeve

i'm going to be doing a lot to these. not sure how it will work out but i want them to appear completely stock

might add to the case saver that its a good idear to replace the plastic neutral light trigger with a billet one from matton. makes the mounting of the case saver much stronger. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANSHEE-DRAG-RACING-BILLET-NEUTRAL-SWITCH-COVER-/220791150233?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33682d9699

on the domes call NOSS if the clutch is slipping fix the clutch dont shoot for LESS powa!!

cut some stockers apart for a project coming up kinda supprised what i found no wonder they are so heavy there is perforated steel form fitted and then insulation about 1/4 inch thick between the pipe and the perf. all the enlarged sections have this in them.. kinda crazy. bet once its all gone they will weigh a lot less and probably have a lil pingy to them.. http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/camatv/internals%20of%20banshee%20pipes/?action=view&current=100_0344.jpg#!oZZ2QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs204.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fbb180%2Fcamatv%2Finternals%2520of%2520banshee%2520pipes%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3D100_0343.jpg http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/camatv/internals%20of%20banshee%20pipes/?action=view&current=100_0344.jpg#!oZZ3QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs204.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fbb180%2Fcamatv%2Finternals%2520of%2520banshee%2520pipes%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3D100_0342.jpg http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/camatv/internals%20of%20banshee%20pipes/?action=view&current=100_0341.jpg

this is a neat idea. and it should work very well. i have noticed on gas lectrons this problem either i feel the idle is a lil to lean or a lil to rich BUT the mid and off idle is excellent. usually this would take needles to fix but then you can have other problems in other area's..

there ya go!!

welder grinder torch and some brains anything can fit anything.. weather it works or not hhhhhmmmm 660 a-arms are diff i believe the later years 700's use yfz a-arms. didnt make sense for yamaha to make differnt setups for each atv. they love to combine parts from other atv's onto other models.

there is one dude on here i think his name is MATT!!

i know of at least 2 sets that were sold on ebay.. and one set that i have rode BUT it had dirt tires on it and still needs some tuning. but the pipes felt fine. no real race vs yet tho. at least for me. i'd love to have a set to play with on one motor

the TSS guys say that the blade is their own design. but i dont know that it wount fit a std cheeta. i dont feel like paying the thousands it would take to get that pv set up over here to try it. it is an amazing thing for the cheeta thats for sure!!

if you already have all the RZ stuff why not a pv'd rz motor? maybe just go to a 4 mill with a cut head. OR 350 with exstensive porting and case matched and more ignition work. larger carbs will help also. then you can atleast get all the motor mounted and set up and kinda see what you like the rx head is taller so a taller motor might still fit after you ahve modded everything else.. or even a 421cc stock cylinder or ported serval. the pipes i think are going to be a major hold back on the serval, cub etc to get that kind of power takes a certain pipe and that large chamber desin is going to be a bear to fit in the chassis.. i also agree a large bore street bike has huge broad power for the street nothing like a cub..

mikuni carb's rely hevily on the needle, and main jet to do the jetting. in my experience i have been able to get them to run ok with stock needles and 25 or 27.5 pilots and from 280-340 mains. the toomey needles are excellent if your going to keep the stock carbs for a while i wouldnt hesitate to buy the jet kit they offer. the needles are custom cut ( or at least the ID numbers are taken off) so unless some one has measure'd the tapers and tried to match them up to a mikuni guide. not sure if you could find them seperate. the kit is pretty resonable anyways. the mains that kit comes with you will probably use.

big bore cpi's if you want a lil more pull out of the hole shears if you really need MPH and overrev.. dont care who ported it if its a high rev port those pipes will work great., might even consider r-2's or snipers. i dont really get the whole dune/drag port set up myself. in all actuallity i'm tired of hearing its just a "dune" port. ( dune dune/drag, drag, dune'r supreme, fast trails, agressicve trail, agressive dune, stage 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 !! what the hell!!) i have stocker clean up, low end, midrange, high rev, drag ( more time) and welded drag, mx

pro circuits will out pull a lrd on the bottom. the lrd will have a lil more pipey hit to it they come on stronger and more abrupt in the upper rpm range. that makes mx jumping a lil more difficult yuo have to time the pipe hit exactiully with the jump or risk some issues on the jump.. if you want to clear your boots the best your real only choice is a set of paul turner high rev stay away from the low end or midrange pipes.

here is simple chart.. -1 +0 +2 +4 +6 +8 +10 +12 +14 +16 +18 TT MX trail------------dune--drag-----drag------------------> more traction-------------------less traction------------------>

after this weekend kickstart will have some new pics to post up.. updated frame stuff!

do any site sponsors carry wossner pistons at all?? or know of an amercan distributor?