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  1. .

    pipes

    LRD.....you'll love them over the fatty's. If you dont believe me, I've got some fatty's I'll sell you
  2. try going to like a 290 or so on your main and throw the 27.5 back in. You might be rich on your main.
  3. I like my LRD needles that came with my pipes, real smooth on the bottom end. My buddy has the same mods as you but runs a coolhead and doesnt have the flywheel and he was bogging bad down low and needed to go up on his pilot. I ordered LRD needles and a 30 pilot for him and the quad woke up big time. I believe he is running a 290 or 300 main in the summer at like 900 feet. Pilot is easy to swap out and might as well try it out to see if it wakes your shee up before it hits powerband some.
  4. where you live? What you want for it?
  5. If your gonna stand it up, take your air filter off first unless its at the end of your riding day. When you stand it up the gas leaks out of the carbs straight down the bottom of the filter and takes oil off it.
  6. If you ride in dirt or mud or water or anything besides sand, I'd get the foam setup. It's at most a 1/2 hp difference and offers much better protection.
  7. you can get a piston kit including pistons, rings, wrist pin, wrist pin bearings, circlips, and gasket kit for $150 american shipped to your door probably (your in canada, might cost a buck or two more). Check dirtwheels, theres a bunch of companies that offer it.
  8. try the 13T, see how you like it. I havent run one yet when running my 22" tires, but my buddy needed a front sprocket and I had a 13T, he's got 22"s and he says he loves it. He's got Ported stock cages, air filter, and T5's. Try it and see how you like it.
  9. if your gonna run lower pressure, make sure you get a dual beadlock design, not just one with a reinforcing ring on the inside.
  10. run a stroker setup with a woods type port (should get you plenty of power for the yfz), get some cpi's or other top end type pipe, and then switch out with a set of LRD's or comparable pipe for when you ride mx.
  11. The question is did you jerk off to them?
  12. you have a pm
  13. tear it apart on a weekend, send it to the powdercoater, should hopefully have it back by the next weekend, and taking your time with it you should be able to put it back together in a weekend. Get yourself a can of PB blaster, it works wonders on saving bolts and breaking bolts loose. Things you'll want to get are swingarm bearings definitely. A-arm bearings (holyman), or a bushing kit for the a-arms Just go through now, and pull your wheels side to side, to see how the bearings are, pull up and down on the a-arms to see if there is play, etc etc. Look into getting chain sliders if needed, etc etc.
  14. Start with the swingarm, axle, a-arms, shocks, steering stem, tie rods, all that fun stuff to get it to a rolling chassis. Then run the electrical, plop the engine in there and just start adding parts. Half a case of beer and half a day and you could have it together.
  15. call and ask? I'm gonna guess its for a laegar chassis
  16. There's actually a lot of guys that ride GNCC that way as well. It tears clutches up, but if it works for them to be faster
  17. PT mids? Have you ridden a bike with them? How is the powerband hit with them? Long and smooth? Always wanted to try a set to compare to my LRD's. Only thing in that type of pipe that is supposed to compare to them. If you've got any good ol rusted sets or anything you'd want to get rid of cheap, let me know. Just dont want to spend a lot for them, kinda more to just try them out to see what I think.
  18. you do know a machinist should bore the cylinders to the actual piston size correct? I piston will come 64.40 or something like that as a list, but it may actually be 64.49 or 64. 396 or anywhere around there. When a cylinder is bored, it can be bored to the thousandths, and creates a much tighter seal.
  19. depending what size domes your running will depend what compression you'll need to rebuild standard is at like 100-105 or difference of 10 psi between cylinders. do a search on here, these questions have been asked a million times, there should be something. If you cant find it, report back and we'll go into it further
  20. I'm dedicating this next beer to you man, 26 has been alright for me so far.....starting to get a little close to thirty though Happy bday man
  21. wtf was that dude eating
  22. if you dont have sparkplugs in it's a lot easier as well, make sure the pegs are off, etc etc.
  23. from the research I've done, its about 80-100 days of hair growth after you stop smoking pot that it'll still show up in your hair. 15 days or so for urine. And cocaine and heroin will be out of your urine in 3 to 5 days. your screwed for the hair thing for a little while
  24. I seriously wouldnt spend more than 1500 for it in this area. My 2nd shee that I bought, a 2001, I paid 1300 for it It has fatty's, front bumper, axle, reeds, air filter, tires, rims, and some powdercoating done. Probably more, but I cant think of it right now. It had a crack in the lower case. Got new cases and threw it in that one and it was up and running in 2 days. I have 1500 into it at most and its clean as a whistle. I suggest cleaning it up really well, and throwing it on ebay set the reserve at the least you'd sell it for and see how it goes.....and find out a way to ship it....because someone will give you 2500 for it in california....and pay the 300-500 to ship it to them.
  25. at a minimum....get some boyeson dual stage reeds (stick with the epoxy, carbon fiber is overrated) v-force will give you a little more throttle response, and would suit you better when you look into getting bigger carbs wayyyyy down the line. Difference is 50 and 200 dollars, noticable difference....not that much that your gonna feel right now.....150 could go to better stuff Definitely get the dual stage reeds.....you'll have a new quad when you do....the throttle response difference is amazing, and your quad will do what you want it to do, when you want it to....plain and simple....the stock reeds suck. get a timing plate from ricky stator....35 bucks....you'll need a flywheel puller which is about 10. If your running a K&N with the lid off, do you have a outerwears for it? Do you hit a lot of mud, dust, etc etc? If you do you might want to think of eventually switching to a foam. Lot better protection and minimal hp loss (1/2 hp at most)
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