Banshee0028

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Stock Yamaha rear rims. Chrome valve stems and caps. Good shape. $35 plus shipping Stock lights 2001. $25 Shipped Grooved Turf Tamers 18x9.5x9. Over 50% tread. $10 plus shipping Stock rear sprocket 41t. $2 plus shipping Rear brake hub. Splines are perfect! $15 plus shipping Front brake lever with mast\cyl. Stripped threads $15 Shipped Crank primary gear $25 shipped Also have stock shocks white, decent shape $30 shipped. Coolant overflow bottle. FREE plus shipping Stock stroke Hot Rods crank. Good shape. Bearings are all smooth, but I would replace side load bearing. $100 Shipped Cool\NOSS Head domes 18cc Good Shape $35 Shipped PICS: Rims Lights-1 Lights-2 Tires Sprocket \ Hub Brake Lever Primary Gear 1 Primary Gear 2 Hot Rods Crank 1 Hot Rods Crank 2 Hot Rods Crank 3 Domes 1 Domes 2 Domes 3

Pic one (HEX) IS your main jet. Pic 2 is the pilot. Depending on how quickly it starts up, a 50 pilot might work good and a 185 for the main should be close (180-190).

Well its good to check for more than one reason, but if you dont have one, I would say running straight 110 would be fine for now. You might end up only needing 50/50? I would say over 160 is really a need for race gas. You can get cheaper testers for around $35-40 in an auto store although they may not be as accurate? If it were me and I just rebuilt my engine I would wait until I could check it properly :cool:

Sounds good. Let us know how the porting works out. Also check your compression! It sounds pretty close to needing race fuel.

I think you would be very happy with either Gorr or Fast! They both do great work. I have Fast porting now, but would use Gorr as well if he was available. Never heard about Juggs? You also need to decide how long you want to wait until you get them back.

The adv timing key should have some kind of "notch' in it like this: http://www.wppracing.com/images/vitokey2600.jpgI would just get a stock one and use the timing plate to adjust timing exactly how you want it. For shure! :yelrotflmao:

Not sure if its been covered but do yourself a favor and ditch that timing key and USE your adj timing plate!! :thumbsup:

Unless you are running on some really short or tight trails and MX, I would not run them. They were ok but never gave me enough of a pull through the gears? I was geared 17/40 and it ran ok, but would hit stumps and bottom out alot since it was much lower to the ground. I put on 20's and love them. When I get back to a MX track, I may put the 18's back on..... But for all around riding, 20's work best for me. :cool:

I am pretty sure they can take a MX port and upgrade it to a Dune port for more mid-top. Might loose a little on the bottom but gain a good amount on top (5-10?)

I have a -1 and 15/40 gearing. I used a 100 link and it was perfect. So if you are stock at 14/41, a 100 might still be good. **EDIT I would probably try a 102 first just in case.

Ahh, thats a good point! It is the lowest on the list too. I will do that ... Thanks :thumbsup:

Ok, here is what the Clymers says about the stator: Lighting coil resistence Yellow-to-Black 0.26-0.38 ohms Pickup coil resistence White/Red-to- White/Green 94-140 ohms Charging coil resistence Green-to-Red 13.7-20.5 ohms The last 2 check out fine and within range. The first one Lighting Coil, ohms out to 0.00. Does this just mean its grounded wrong somewhere or is it bad? I have the motor out right now on my workbench being built. Everything seems in tact and installed right. Flywheel is not on yet. This first set of wires is also the 2 that are separate from the plug. Also, my coil also checks out at 0 ohms. Is something wrong? It was running before I took it apart.

I also have a woods port and noticed a good amount of increase in bottom, MID, and top-end with a 35mm single vs stocks. For trail and woods riding, I would highly recommend a single 35, with the added benefit of super easy jetting. :cool: Other than that a Nology or Dyna will help a little .........

hehe, thanks Dave and everyone else...I probably would do the upgrade but since I already have these studs in there I don't like the idea of trying to swap them out!! After all, I have enough work to do putting the engine back together.... So for now I guess I will stay with the Coolhead. But definitely if I ever change the Cyl's, Noss it is :cool:

I am running a cool head now and thinking of upgrading to a Noss since I am doing a rebuild. I know there is not much of a difference, but thought it might be nice to put on a Noss. However with the cool head I have the longer studs and the noss head uses the stock size studs. I would think this would work fine, but the studs would just be longer and might look funny? Otherwise, I dont think there is much else of a difference performance or cooling wise?

Well, cases are now sealed and bolted back together. Thanks for the tips. Now its time for the clutch and flywheel install. Up next will be the cyl's and topend... :biggrin:

Thanks Jeff, will check everything above...You might not remember but I actually bought the 3 bond from you a while back :cool:

Thanks I will make sure to get a tip!! That brings up a good point since I have heard about sealing it both ways before (just the bottom vs both sides). I guess if you do one side good enough you shouldn't need to do the top as well ?

Not sure the +/- adj for above sea level, but around sea level you should be good at 180-190. I had a woods port with a 205 and it was about perfect.

Dude, dont even mention that. :: WAYY too long...But its coming back to life real soon!! :beer:

Cool, thanks for the reply's....I will be installing everything this weekend :biggrin:

Hmm, basically this seal just goes in a groove between the cases I guess....Dont remember right now. Whats the best way to make sure its installed right?

I am putting my engine back together after a complete rebuild. I have 3-bond to use to seal the cases. Just wanted to get some tips when putting it back together. I am going to seal it really good all around and make sure the 3-bond is on all parts that will be mounted together. I have the tranny lined up and crank installed as well. It seems like the crank just drops right and has the "c" type of clips that go 50% on each side (top and bottom). The tranny seems lined up and can manage to shift through the gears also. I will pressure test this once its all back together, I just dont want to miss anything with the cases as I dont want to have to re-do any of this! Thanks :biggrin:

Welcome :cool: I have a 2-1 carb and its perfect for trails and woods riding, and even some light racing. I also use Klotz Supertechniplate 40:1! IMO FMF makes decent pipes for all around riding.....