Banshee0028

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Have a good condition Red O'Neal chest protector that I am not using. Someone give me $25 plus shipping, and its yours. Leave email or pm for Pics ...... ** Should have posted pics....It looks like a large since its bigger than the Medium I have now......**

My #1 source for most parts: http://www.rockymountainatv.com/.

I FINALLY GOT THE BITTCCHHH OFFF!!!! Here is what it took: I sprayed it, let it sit for a while, tried the impact, no luck... I used a standard propane torch and let it sit there for 10-20 seconds, then quickly hit it with the impact, no luck... I had a friend bring over a 500lb torque air impact, with a portable tank filled to 120psi....Hooked up the impact to the bolt, and it sat there again, bogged down, did not move. Then the air of course dropped down to 80ps in the tank...So then I bring it to his house: Hooked it up to the main compressor, AND THE BIITCH CAME FLYING OFFF Lesson Learned: Have the right tools!!!!!! I think the impact I bought is still pretty decent, just this bolt probably did not have any anti-sieze on it, and was prob put on with an impact when the previous owner put in the hot rod crank.... Once off, I put on the flywheel remover tool, and it was tight getting off. So I quickly hit that with my electric impact, and it came flying off as well.....This is when I decided to keep the impact after all. I am sure I can use it on almost anything else with the shee.

I tried a deep well impact socket (17mm) but it would not even fit into the opening...It was a Matco socket...I also tried the regular socket again just now completely holding the flywheel still with the rubber grip tool, hammering it a bit before starting, and trying to quickly tighten it then trying to remove it...ALL with no luck. I am taking it to a freind down the street who has a good air impact tomorrow...Hope this works!

Thats what I'm hoping I did not f-up already...I put it facing a tree, had my g/f sit on it with the brakes on while I turned the socket with a pretty long extension....I did feel something give a little, almost like it was turning over, but not sure if thats what it was ....Daammm, I hope it was nothing serious!!! I am using a 17mm socket, so that should be the right size, however its a standard socket, not a impact socket. I just borrowed a 17mm impact, so I will try it now and see if I can get it off....

That sounds good, but ......................... Mine is an electric $50 special However, I did try quickly tightening it, then reversing it, but no luck. However you are probably right, this impact is prob rated at max, and I am not getting near 240lbs out of it. I am also using a normal Craftsman deep 6pt socket since the shorter one did not fit due to the bolt comming through. Will a true impact socket make a difference?

Yep, did all that, it only has one setting, and forward\reverse, and I tried some WD, on t here...No luck....Thinking of a better impact, but daamn, 240lbs should work

dont you remove the bolt first then use the puller? its bolted on right?

Ok, have a pretty clean '01 I am trying to remove the flywheel...No rust anywhere in the flywheel area, all clean....bought a 240 ft\lb impact from Harbor and when I try to remove it (reverse), it just sits there,.....It gets real hot, but does not move at all!! I then tried to remove the 32mm bolt for the front sproket, and it zipped off without a blink.... I tried to hold the front\rear brakes with someone sitting on it, and manually remove it, but I heard something sound like a slipping noise inside, so I was worried I might damage something inside the tranny if I put any more pressure on it that way.... I also tried the rubber strap tool, but it started to slip before I could put put 100% pressure on it..... Any ideas? The impact is rated at 240lbs...Should this be enough???

Amsoil Dominator ~38:1.....Runs great....

I looked at the ports and they are really cleaned up but not "cut open" too much at all...So yea looks like a mild port....I would not say they spin that much in 4-6 in sand....in fact in heavy sand, I have to be pinned in 5th to get strong pull in 6th...But then again, I need a top end rebuild soon so thats prob part of the reason...And the reason for the top-end rebuild and new Gorr port next summer...

It actually runs pretty good with this gearing, and does not bog in any gear...But prob cause the TT's spin soo, soo friggin much I dont get good traction This is one reason why I want to change tires......but yea if I go with 20's I will try either a 15 or 16\40 to see which one works better....Prob a 15 for now and a 16 with the new Gorr port and top end next season

Ok, already searched and found a few suggestions, but still not sure what to get... I hear most recommend 18" tires for MX, which is what I am running now...18" Tamers, on ITP beadlocks. I am also geard 17/40 with the 18's.... However, for trail riding I was thinking of using either 20" Knarly's or Klaw's....and drop the gearing to a 16\40...Possibly a 15\40...OR 18" Kenda's with either 17\40 or 16\40 gearing.......I have a mild MX port (unitl I get a gor port this summer), and most other basic mods.... I have used the gearing calc alot, but have not seen too many posts on the weight\unsprung weight of the wheels (18 vs 20)...I guess it does not make much of a difference on the shee?? I ride mostly trails, some sand (have paddles for that if needed), and now some MX also....( I can also keep my TT if I need to for MX)...I have a nice Skid for the swingarm, so even with the 18's, I dont hit it too much on the trails..... Would an 18" or 20" be the best tire setup if clearance is not an issue, and I gear accordingly.....

Pretty much same issues here..I got lucky and got them in about 3-4 weeks...Was told about 2, but thats fine. Also, I temporarily lost one of the small rods, and gary was going to ship it out next day to me. Never received it. Luckily 2 weeks later I finally found it. But no reply or part ever came through. But the quality is GREAT......So far no issues with them, and install was pretty straight forward. There is LOTS of adjustability, and he includes basic directions that make it pretty simple. I also called him while setting them up and he gladly answered a few install questions!! Would I buy from him again? As long as the parts would be shipped out in time, DEFINATELY!!!.

The fronts are dual, but the rear is a single since its a stock spring. I just called Todd today and he suggests we change the rear spring and maybe re-valve it for now and see how it works without doing the fronts also. Hopefully just a stiffer spring will do the trick, but going to a full ZERO PRELOAD setup seems nice but another major UPGRADE$$$$...

These sound interesting...Anyone else try them?

Ok, posted in the MX section HERE but SO FAR NO LOVE...At least not yet.... Basically I have TCS shocks in the front setup for mostly trails, and a stock re-worked shock in rear also setup by TCS for trails and light jumps. Took the shee to the MX track for the first time, and it is bottoming pretty hard on almost every jump!!! Would I be able to simply change the rear shock to a stiffer spring or would I have to re-valve them also??? Here is the orig link: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=50263. I am hoping a simple srping swap at this point will work, as they are valved exactly for my weight and only 6 months old....

I am looking for a good deal on a nice 2 into 1 setup. Must be in great working order as I dont want to have any problems with the single carb setup. If anyone has one that they want to sell, please let me know....

First off, I went to a local MX track for the first time with the shee yesterday...IT WAS ASWESOME This particular track has some of the highest jumps around the state, but is VERY well maintained and setup real nice...was more of a black dirt and some tree shaving (wood chips) around the burms. Anyway, to the main problem here: I was only jumping pretty slow and not too high, but almost EVERY time I got more than about 2-3 feet of air the suspension would completely bottm out and hit hard! At first I thought it was just "normal", and MX was alot harder than trail riding....Well I am sure it is, but its not supposed to hit this hard...LOL Later we found out that there was lots of dirt pilled up around the shifter....Meaning that I was bottoming out each time and hitting the track. I have about 6 month old TCS shocks all the way around: Dual rate in the front setup for 150lb rider + gear, "trail riding with some mx" is what I told Todd to set them up for. And in the rear its a stock shock\spring reworked by TCS for the above settings. After the frist lap or two, we adjusted the rear compression all the way hard, and it might have helped a bit, but still bottoms out. We also found out that the rear shock rebound was WAY too fast....I think its at the default setting 12? I was told this will also greatly help once I lower it. I am HOPING its just the rear shock that is causing the shee to bottom out, as there is no evdence that the front is also bottoming out?? Would I need to revalve the rear shock again, and\or can I simply get a heavier spring for the rear, and install it myself? If I can get this fixed by simply replacing the rear spring only, that would not be too bad...I just dont want to have to have the front TCS shocks changed again, if I dont have to ...............

hmmm...weird, thats 3 votes to reduce the mains!! I would think since WOT is fine and only the midrange is bogging, I would need to ruduce the needle position? I have not pulled the plugs since the last ride, but previously they looked right on. I have not done a "true" plug chop recently, but prob need to. I do have a set of 270's here I can put in, but thought the needle would be much easier... If the mains are causing the prob, I can try the 270's this weekend

Ok, last time I went riding it was about 20' cooler than it was this time. Now its about 80-90' where I ride at here in FL. Last time out everything was about right on, possibly a bit lean on the main, but ran great!!! Now for the first time, I noticed a pretty good bog\hesitation\ and sputterng a little in the midrange. If I let it get to about 75% or so, it will open up great WOT!!! Off idle is ok, and starts ok. It does take a while to start when cold, but thats been like that for a while, prob due for a rebuild one day. So, I am thinking I need to lean out the needle for the hotter weather, right? I think its at the 4th position from top, 27.5 pilot and a 280 main. I tried to go higher on the main previously and got nothing but boggs and non-starts. It has most bolt ons, vforfce 2's and a mild home-MX porting job. Do I need to go richer instead?