Banshee0028

Well with all thse tips, that about wraps it up for now...........I am getting a pkg of jets...I m gonna start around 300 and depending on how that works, prob go up or down from there....I will reanalyze and make sure the problem is from 3/4 to WOT.....IF lower, I will start with the clip....I will keep everyone posted on the results later this week. THANKS

What would be the difference between going up one or two sizes of main jets, vs going one position higher for the needle? They both will allow more fuel and run richer, correct? The needle is easier so should that be the first position to test?

Hey Ben, is that a general test that I can do to determine if I am running too lean? The reason I am asking is I am at 260 mains right now with moderate mods...I was planning on trying up to 300 mains....So if I pull the choke out just to the 1st position and it runs better it needs more fuel...And if if its worse? Too lean?

Well i have mild MX porting, FMF sst's, cool head, 18cc domes, getting ready to put in Delta VF 2's, and eventually some more stuff...Right now its Great for buttom/midrange...Just trying to get more top end pull.....I think I need to go higher on the mains, but was just asking about the carbs.....I am still at 260...Would I be safe if I had to go up to 300 with stock carbs with this setup?

Ok, with biger mains, you get more fuel in the engine......up to some limit of course.......And with bigger carbs, you get the same... So my question is, when would you need/or benefit from bigger carbs rather than going higher on the mains

Glad the HQ is back.....The site is a bit faster too ... Nothing replaces the HQ Just getting used to the new avitar and forum layout...

sredish, the spring was a small 1 inch that went in one of the needle valves....There is not too many of these springs on the carb. Question: the main air screw has a spring in it right? I think this is where it came from.

Well 99% good news: ITS RUNNING AGAIN It seems to be running pretty good now. Cranks on 1-2 kicks again..... The 1% is because while sweeping the garage floor, I found a small crome spring which I hope is just for the air screw valve so I can easily reinstall it. Is this what it is for? I dont remember removing it prolly becuase I blsated it with the carb cleaner and did not see it pop out.

04le, sorry man that is not the case with mine, as I dont have that installed any more. Was not instlalled when I bought it. Thanks for the hope though Also, now that I am looking at the carb diagram, I cleaned the mains and the air adj screw, but forgot to remove and clean out the PILOT JETS!!!!!!! Would the pilot jet be responsible for this, or the main jets? ANyone

Update: I took off the carbs and cleaned them out fully with carb cleaner. Took out the mains and cleaned them and the air screw and put it back the same # of turns. Also took apart the float assembly. Put it all back together and now it still dont start. I think this time its not starting since there is no gas in there and there is left over carb cleaner. I am going to mix up some new gas in the am and put some starting fluid in the cylinders...We will see how it goes

the spark is pretty good too

Plugs are great...Light tan 100%....I am trying to take apart the carbs now, not sure if I need to disasemble all of it and if I need to change the settings when I am done

Ok, just finished up putting in a new swingarm and axle. She was apart for about 2 weeks. Now its all back together and I go out to crank it. It takes MUCH longer to crank then it ever did before! It FINALLY cranked. full choke-half choke-no choke....Seemed running good. Then once it started getting warmed up, it wanted to bog when going to 1/4-1/2 throttle!! Then it stopped. I roll out to the street slowly in 1st and at 1/4 gas, it shut off!! Kicked it and NOTHING....Would not crank back up. Took back to the garage. CHoked it and it cranked again, ran for a second then stopped. I Really Dont think this is a jetting issue since it was running perfectly over a year with this setup. I Never took apart the carbs to clean them which I am thinking it might be something there. My main concern with doing this is that I dont want to mess up the jetting or needles while doing this. I also dont know how to take them apart and where all the needles and screws are Does this sound Like I need to clean the carbs out? If so do I need to take them all apart or just some of them...Can someone give some direction on this? Thanks

Update: I found the little bolt-like aluminum spacer that fits on the braket to the swing arm. It's now working fine I used washers for the brake caliper and its working ok. The problem now is that the braket itself is not real secure!!!! I mean it does not rotate, but it moves a little from side to side since it does not sit in a really tight grove Is this normal? Its 90% together, almost there.

ALso regarding the alum spacers, I can use simple washers for this right? I already did and it looks like it will work. Its not all back together yet though

You have a pic of that, or know where to get that at? Is this something I can rig-up from Home Depot?

I am installing a new lsr swinger, with new round carrier. I have a few things that don't seem to be right: What is happening here is 2 things: 1) the flat plate that sits on the side of the carrier to hold the brake asembly is kinda loose! It goes over the frist lip on the ls carrier, then sits pretty loose in the grove. It lines up with the nipple that comes out the side of the swing, but just dont seem right being loose. 2) the bolts for the brake calaper line up but the spacing is different as I would now need to use 2-3 washers on each side of the brake mounting to space them evenly so the axle will spin. Kinda hard to explain, so I hope you understand what I am talking about. I can try to take pics if needed. I am trying to get it back together today! Any help is appreciated

OK...I am reading both sides of the story here......I have 2 questions to clear this whole thing up: 1) Would there be a simply way to make a device to check the balance after the lightening is complete? 2) If so, we can continue to drill holes (or whatever else) to make it perfectly balanced again after its in the lathe. SO, if there's a way to Check and Re-Balance, how much more difficult would it be to implement? NOt saying Boon's are not blanaced once he is done with them, but why not go one step further and test them once or twice to prove to people that they are bal'd? Or maybe test a few he has already done. That would put an end to all these arguments and assumptions and make for a better "documented" product. (Proving that they are in bal after being lightened). I am also planning on sending mine to Boon in near future. Sound Good ??

Oh, and one more thing....When does 130MPH have anything to do with a dollar amount??? I guess after spending sooo much $$$$ on it, everything he lists he thinks of money!! "Goes up to $130MPH!!!!!!!"

I just seen the $99 price tag Yep a little pricy...BUt can anyone else say if these are worth the extra money? I t would seem like the aluminim might not last as long, but I have not used them so can't really say.....

ANyone use the Rad brand with dual alen screws in it? They run around $40?

I am getting a new RPM axle and looking for a one pc nut to go with it. I see some alloy\aluminum ones for $30 and the LSR for around $75! Is there a difference between them?

Wow, hope you feel better soon man...Get well

Hey Tat, going on that same principle, cant I get a -1 and adjust the chian tighter to make it close to a -2?

sredish, thanks, I was looking at this one earlier and might just buy that one!!! It seems like a custom made one but many people seem to like it....Anyone here use that one? tats, I am looking at the RAD carrier now....THanks