Banshee0028

I am thinking about going -2 on the swing arm and looked at the prices for new ones...Seen most of them around $500 or more! I also hear how some people prefer to use the stock ones and have them cut down -2 inches and it performs just as good. Would the quality of the "cut-down" stock one be just as good after shortening it, without lossing any strength? Also, I am looking into a new carrier too while I am at it..... Do mostly trail and open riding, with some MX in the future...

I am also thinking about the zerk fitting too...However by doing this, the grease is not getting to the bearings, it will be sitting between the carrier and the bearing spacer,,,NO grease getting the bearings?? Is this right or does it get there some other way......

Ok, I managed to get one side out..I got both rubber seals off, but the second bearing wont budge!!! I am going to H/D tomorrow and getting a punch or small diameter pipe to hammer and push it out....Its chipping away at my craftsman screwdriver Its almost there... Also, I was thinking that while I got the carrier out maybe I should sandblast it then paint it! Would this be a good idea? I never thought about doing anything to it until now..Since I was not planning on changing them today

Nevermind...I got it..After putting in a "U" bicycle type of lock inbetween the hub to hold the axle still, in addition to the brakes, it completely bent That thing is like 1/2 inch thick!! Time to put the good 'ole Craftsman open end wrench to the test in between the hub and frame: IT WORKED!! Heard a "crack", it was LOOSE Now I am trying to get the bearings out of the rear carrier...Tried hammering them trhough the opposte end and they are not moving....Thats how they are supposed to be removed right?

I first tightened the axle nuts due to play in the axle....After heating up and breaking the outer nut loose, I went to tighten up the inside one. It turned one good time around!!! Then using the pipe wrench facing the rear of the shee and the wrench close to the floor, I kicked and jumped on it as hard as I could!!! Once it was tight and stopped turning, I sat on the Shee and moved it from L/R. DAMMNN,......Still has play in it So, since i have a new set of bearings here, I try to remove the nuts and axle. The outside nut comes all the way off. I then heat up the inside one and jump on the pipe wrench with EVERYTHING I got, and NOTHING...It dont move. I tried for 30 MINS!!!! The problem here is that when I tightneded it, I had great leverage from the rear of the she...Now, trying to remove it, I have to stand/jump on it right next to the shifter.....THERE IS NO ROOM TO GET A GOOD POSITION HERE So, what are some other tricks to get this thing off, I am trying to ride tomorrow and want to get this done TODAY ....... Sugestions.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=46105 Nice "Mower"

Great .... any other opinions on these? Anyone else use upp? They seem to be a bit cheaper than TM too

Ok, looking for next mod on the shee and was thinking about some chain sliders and/or rollers? I guess there is a lower and upper in the front and a chain guide in the rear? Should I replace all of the factory ones or would the fronts be more beneficial? Do these things make much of a diff? I know its proably not much but they seem to keep tension on chain better and running smoothly

I dont hear much talk about balanced cranks, like with cars...Are trued cranks close or the same thing?

I tend to agree with you on this now....Learing alot being on the HQ....The suspension and chassis mods are critical esp around a MX track!! I might still do the timing and/or Reeds soon, but my next MAJOR modification/upgrade will definately be some SHOCKS then possibly some +2 a-arms later

Well, the MX setup is ITP offset beadlock wheels, front and rear, no a-arms.....The pipes, porting, etc are for mx/low end...Not many chassis mods..he had mostly engine with the ITP wheel offsets...NOthing drastic....I was thinking of doing the axle/a-arms in the future...I just bought it like this so will have to make my own adjustkments

How beneficial would a Balanaced crank be? More reliable since less engine vibrations, or what?

Could be either...Mine seemed like the shocks...I would first try to take the rear shock spring and move it around a bit if you can...If no luck, you can take the shock off and clean the washers/bearings in the mounts....Something in there is rubbing causing the squeak.

Great...Thanks for all the responses

Matt, which specific gear oil do you use for the tranny?

Leadfoot, what would happen if I did have 18cc domes and advanced the timing 2-4 deg, and ran 93 oct?? Would the performance just not be as good as it would with reace gas or would it be negativily affected since the oct would be too low, and/or cause damage? Also, I will run a comp check this weekend and see where I am at....If I am around 150 then maybe pump gas will be ok with this setup until I rebuild???

That clears most of it up...Thanks...Ill start to look around and see how much I can get a set of Deltas for.....Ill decide then...Not that porting is bad at all though. Just another way of doing it.....THanks

Anyone

I am also running Amsoil 2000 at 32:1, but was thinking of going a bit higher...Maybe 40:1? Want to move up slowly.....The added oil should help engine wear a bit

Fixit, I am not really stuck on the Delta's at ALL...Just heard those are pretty good.....So yea if ported cages are just as good and alot less $$ then that will work for me So ported cages and the hyper tension reeds are a good set-up? What carb adjustments will I have to do with these new reeds? Jetting? Thanks for the info

Thanks....I will prolly do the timing first... However, once I Finally do get the Delta's, exactly what type of increase/response can I expect from them? Btter throttle response, better low end, top end, etc...

Damm bro, doesn't sound too good, but it could possibly be something with the oil you are using..What type are you running in the crankcase? Other than that maybe someone can recommend something directly with the clutch ...is this the first time this has happened? What type and how old is the clutch?

I know he told me that it was setup to run on pump OR race gas..It was the domes that were "OK" for either....BUt I am pretty sure hey said 18cc..Or maybe he forgot and thought they were 18cc and are really 20cc. I think I will do a compression check soon anyways just to see where I am at About how much power increase did you get with the reeds? Maybe 2-4hp?

Have an '01 SHee with Cool Head 18 or 20cc domes (Not sure bought used) FMF Fatties, PCII's, K&N, 18" Holeshots, Etc setup for MX.....93 octane pump gas.... Which would be the best upgrade? (Timing advance or Reeds) I hear pretty much that a 4 degree advance will help out maybe 2-4hp, but have not heard much about the reeds helping out too much...Some say they do good and othes say they dont do much...It Probably depends on other things, but this is what i have..... Do the Reeds take a lot more configuration? New jets and carb adjustments? Any Suggestions

I was actually thinking the exact same thing...Im from FL too and Would love to go to GLamis ...One Day... As soon as we can figure out a good way of getting there, I might be down to go