scotts96fast

I always had some filter oil in the carb boots.Like the other guy said just a little fim.I can't see the oil sitting there just can feel it with my fingers.If ya see little puddles you might be putting to much oil on the filter.l

Did anyone notice that lonestar and ATV four play Caster adjustments are totally oppsite?One say have the Arm more forward than the lower is postive and the other say it's negitive.That's where I'm confused, who is correct?Lonestar would be my bet.

Just when I thought I had this figured out...I read some info from lonestar. Caster is the amount of angle that the spindle has in relation to the vertical centerline of the wheel. If the upper ball joint is farther forward than the lower ball joint, it is said to have negative caster. If the upper ball joint is farther to the back than the lower ball joint, it is said to have positive caster. The greater the amount of positive caster, the more stable the ATV will be at speed. The less positive caster it has, the easier it will steer and the quicker it will turn. As the spindle is laid back, the tire has to lay over more when the front tires are turned. This adds stability. If there is not much angle, the wheel will turn more, making it quicker and easier to turn. This is from Lonestar...... Caster Caster is the amount of angle the upper and lower A arm/spindle is rotated. If the Upper A arm/spindle is rotated more forward than the lower, it is considered positive caster. Too much positive caster will make the atv too responsive. Which means when riding, the atv would be "darting" all over (to reactive). However, to much negative caster makes the atv not responsive enough....This is from Atv four-play. The postive and negative do not match up....Now I'm getting very confused!lonestar does say this is for their A-arms only,but you would think caster is caster with any A-arms.Can anyone explain this??? My friend has a stock shee and his compared to mine is.......I have the top of the tire tilted a 1/8 more in.And have the spindle a hair more forward.

I also have a -2 swing arm....

Thanks man that helped alot..Does anyone have some suggestions on what degree to set the camber and caster?I trail ride with alot of woods small amount of whoops. While back someone posted tips on what to set the camber and caster from another web site.So far I cant find it.....

I just got my new A-arms and don't totally understand how to adjust that.Is the caster adjusted by the upper ball joint and camber adjusted with the lower ball joint?I have no idea, all I know is to use a framing square.I will be trail riding mostly woods and some whoops.What sould I set the camber and caster at? I have quicksand arms....

you may have to wait a little while to get them though. I second that!I'm going on 13 weeks.....ready to call and get a refund....He's 8 weeks late.

I just went from T-5's to fatties.I would never ride the T-5's for the trails again.Way to much clutching with the T-5's and alot of tire spin.

I'm still waiting also.....Sucks having brand new Elka shocks sitting in a box!

However I did see a post about someone who had a chain clearance problem with a 38 rear. I think it said the chain was hitting on the sprocket hub or the bolts or something. That was me....I ran a 15/41 for years and want to try 14/38 with the new pipes. If it pulled good enough for the trails I was going to go up to 16 and see what happens.I really have no idea what all you guys do to run a 38 or less in the rear with out having ware problems ...I ground the hub a bit,but after that I notice the lock tabs and nuts were worse off.Right now I have 15/41 and the front end stands up in 2nd and a hair in 3rd.I'm hoping the +2+1 arms I'm waiting on will help that. The only problem I have with the shee is a hesatation off idle and going through the gears.If I hold it 2000 RPM's and crack it.It goes like hell.If I don't speed shift it will hesitate.I tried bigger pilots and no luck.Some out here say the needle is lean????Also bump the timing +2 and/+4.the timing I think I will try just a bit shun running 150 lbs with porting on 93 fuel.

I clean the air filter every ride dirty or not.No,I have not advanced the timing,But I do have an adjustable timimg plate.I have it at 0 because I'm not sure if it will handle +4 with pump fuel.I ride trails and carry fuel,but sometimes need to stop and get pump gas which is 92 or 93.I'm at 150 lbs with porting.Kinda on the edge. The porting was done a few years ago from PSI in Wisconsin.It's a mx/trail porting.They call it stage 5 which is at the max.... I'm going up to the trailer this weekend and most likely try and richen up the needle and see what happens.I'm a little shun about trying to advance the timing right now.Other than this any other ideas????

Don't get a boost bottle...Keep the stock cross over tube you will be better off!!I'm sure others will back me up on this.It's been proven over and over it does no good just harm...

....You guys say it could be the needle.If the problem is right off idle shouldn't that be the pilot jet???Or am I missing something.....

I'm still having the hesitation problem.I had 50's in and went to 52's.I rev'ed it and it had a slight bog.I didn't even ride it.I put 48's in and didn't see much of a difference.The idle did not change.I have a tach,so if I hold it at 2000 crack it.It goes like hell. I didn't notice this with the T-5's.There's no power down low,but with the fatty's it's very noticeable.Could this just be the nature of the porting?I tied adjusting the air screws,but no matter what when you rev it in nutrual off idle it will hesitat.if ya hold it about 2000 RPM's it's just fine!

Gets you back to camp in one piece from the bar..

where the case half meet is your timing mark...

I just installed a 38 rear sprocket on a '96.The chain is rubbing on the hub and the washer plates and nuts that holds the sprocket on.The chain will not sit all the way on the sprocket.I have a new atv x-ring chain which is worse than my old DID 520 0-ring chain.How do you guys run such a small gear and not have problems???People run a 37 and that's going to be worse!! I did grind the hub,but the chain still hits that...Once I notice the problem with the washer plates and nuts I stopped.Any ideas

I don't know what's wrong,but 2 quarts is to much oil.1.5 quarts is needed.

41 tooth which is the stock size...

I ordered my A-arms in the middle of March...I'm still waiting...

but I'll be out of town Saturday night. Don't forget Matt still owe you a beer or two for my swing arm mod!! We're staying at the attica Inn saturday night.we'll be in town around 9ish Saturday morning.if anyone that want's to hook up were driving a red Z-71.My buddy has a blue shee mosty stock(just piped) and i have a red and white shee..

I agree with the above,but spend a few bucks and make a pressure tester and rule that out 100%.It a good tool to have on 2 strokes!!

Like everyone said beat the hell out of it.Took me about 2 hours,but i got it out.just need to play with it a bit....While I was hammering my buddy had the impact going at the same time and she came out....( short burst with the impact)

or just stay off the crack pipe...

Hmmmm that's a good idea.Do you think it will last or go back to it's old shape soon?