scotts96fast

-2 swingarm...Get the power to the ground.

Well I took the shee apart and the star adjustment was right there.The only thing that I saw worn that could give some problems was the shift star it's self.It looks like a worn sprocket.With a modded star and being worn,can that really make it slip into neutral from like 2nd or 3rd gear?Just odd it would find neutral from 3rd.I can see it from 2nd to neutral.

What is Gary's email address and or phone number?I'm interested in arms and shocks and have the winter months to wait for them..... Does his setups offer extended travel?i

don't waste your money they do no good and alot of people had probles with air leaks.Stay with the stock tube!

The more I look into different pipes I'm not really sure what I want just yet.i won't be riding until spring,So i have the pies for sale. PM for me for info.....

sounds like your running lean and getting HOT......

banchetta, you've done alot of dyno testing in the past.Did you ever dyno pipes? PT mids are a low-mid pipe which would be better than the t-5 i have for woods/trail start and stop riding correct?i rode a stock shee with PC and it was just easy to ride in the woods.(don't need to keep the R'sss up)do the pt mids fall off about the same as fattys and pc?

The shift star should be in good shape.booman modded it a while back,perhaps it just out of adjustment.......thanks for the tips with a modded shift star should the adjustment be any different than what the manual states?

my shee will find neutral when I don't want it!!!like from 3rd or 4th gear...if I down shift from 4th it will find neurtal,also I think I just tap the shifter while riding and it goes into neurtal.this does not happen that often,maybe 5-10 times a ride.What is wrong?Could it be a easy adjustment or worn parts?I'm going to refresh the top end this winter so If I have to crack the case that's not big deal. Thanks

I have a set of crome t-5's and sileners for sale or trade.Pipes are clean with no rust,cracks and dents.very little coloring at the exhaust ports.I really would like to trade for fatty's, pro circuits or maybe pt'mids.I'm still looking to see what best fits my needs. pm me with your email addy and I will send some pictures. Thanks

I have a set of crome t-5's and sileners for sale or trade.Pipes are clean with no rust,cracks and dents.very little coloring at the exhaust ports.I really would like to trade for fatty's, pro circuits or maybe pt'mids.I'm still looking to see what best fits my needs. pm me with your email addy and I will send some pictures. Thanks

I'm looking for new pipes.I have t-5's which are a good pipe,but lookig for trail/woods pipe.Fatty's are at the top of my list..Than pro circuit and pt mids. From what I've been reading here Fatty's work well with modded motors.What about the pro circuits?Do they get better the more mods you do? Also can you even compare fatty's to pro circuits on a modded motor?From what I know their about the same.... I have a post to trade or sell my t-5's, if anyone is interested....

do you know what your squish is?

yup and it's a 99"

My buddy just put his shee together,nothing major just to make it look pretty and new rings.he has no spark at all.We put my coil,on/off swith and the key switch on and still no spark.machine ran like a champ before doing anything.I'm thinkiong we have a wire problem perhaps.He removed the tors system.My question is........we have the two white ends that are not hooked up from the tors.is there anything else we must do with the tors wiring?we could not put my cdi box on it has different ends... Thanks for any info.......

Thanks guys....

That really doesn't tell you anything about how the main jet's performing. You need to run it from 1st to 5th or 6th wide-open-throttle and then kill it with the throttle still pegged to get an accurate main jet reading. If your still breaking it in and can't wot like that, then go up on the main another size and then run your wot run after it's broken in. You might consider trying your needles one clip richer also. What srdeish said....

My buddy tore down his stock shee...We need help with the carb lines... it's been a long time even looking at a stock shee....How many over flows are there?I know about the choke cross over tube.There should be two lines from carb to carb right?if some one has a picture of the carbs hooked up that would be great.

Here is what Barnett said when I emailed them.... While we do not have any known problems with this clutch kit, we would be happy to inspect and replace the clutch as needed. Just send the clutch plates and springs to us and be sure to include your name, address, and note explaining what has happened. With it only lasting two hours, it sounds like it could have been caused by a stack height that was to thin- possibly even due in part from a worn pressure plate and/or clutch boss (inner hub). If your clutch boss or pressure plate is worn, it can cause a new clutch to burn up fast. The clutch plates burning up shouldn't cause any unusual wear on the clutch basket. Chris Taylor Barnett Tool & Eng. 2238 Palma Dr. Ventura, CA 93003

yep with both friction and steels plates....I also let the clutch soak in the same oil I am running,which is yamahalube...10w30...I ran the same oil in the stock clutch for 8 years....

My clutch went out over the weekend.I may have more than one problem that is kinda strange.My ? is what are the signs when a clutch is starting to go?It lacked power and sounded funny unless you were wot.The plugs were a different colors....

My new dirt digger clutch last 2 hours.I pulled the stock one out with heavy duty springs that was 8 years old.(I'll be going back to the stock one I think)

Hmmmmm does moving the airbox back change anything?It would be like a longer tunnel.Would the air flow pick up speed or anything?

Hmmm I'm a bit confused....I had a problem with the lenth was to long and I had to cut it shorter.

I need to replace the stock ones.What aftermarket ones do you guys like?