bigboybanshee

When you're checking your breather tube in the back, be sure to also check the little white plastic piece that attaches to the case, that the hose connects to. I would pull the whole thing off and ensure it's clear on both ends. I've never seen it leak around the actuator arm before, but it does sound like your cases are being pressurized.

Just so I'm on the same page here... You have a 4mil stock cylinder that hasn't been ported for a 4mil, and you're running a spacer plate on TOP of the cylinders, correct? If so, it sounds like you need to move the spacer plate to the bottom of your cylinders. That way it moves your cylinders up to put the port timings where they should be. Then try checking your compression again. 21cc domes at or around sea level should put you around 150 psi compression, stock porting. You could run 93 pump gas and advance your timing 4 degrees and be safe with that compression and squish. I would not mess with the thicker base gasket to adjust your squish. It'll change your port timings. Honestly, I think your squish is fine. I try to shoot for close to .040

It really depends on what kind of riding you do. If you're a trail rider, having the equalizer tube may give you a little better throttle response, but there is no performance gain/loss for the tube/boost bottle. If most of your riding is wide open throttle then the equalizer tube has no benefit to your setup

If the clip was on the bottom slot of the needle (farthest from the blunt end), then yes, that's as rich as the needle will allow. Going up on the clip position leaned out your mid throttle, which sounds like the right direction to me. 27.5 pilot sounds fine, but I'm confused about your idle screws. Are they three turns out or are you just looking down and seeing three threads? To accurately adjust your idle screws, screw them all the way in until they stop. Back them out one full rotation at a time. To me, it sounds like you need more air off idle to balance the fuel mixture, which would require you to open up that idle screw a little more. Definitely screw them all the way in to make sure they are both equal, then I would start with two full turns out. If it still seems rich, go another full turn out. If it starts clearing up and sounding better, I would drop your pilot to a 25 and put the idle/air screws at 1.5 turns out and fine tune from there. Rule of thumb is to have your idle screws 1-3 turns out. If your air screws are 1 turn out, you're a little lean on the pilot. If your air screws are 3 turns out, you're a little rich on the pilot. 2 turns out or close is where you want to be.

Get 3 bolts that are longer than the ones provided with the lockup. That way, you can easily thread those 3 bolts and snug the lockup down without having to fight the tension of the springs. Once those 3 bolts are screwed in enough to allow the shorter bolts to easily screw in without applying pressure to the lockup, put the 3 shorter bolts provided in the other slots, unscrew the longer bolts and replace them with the shorter length bolts.

The best thing to do, is call your builder and tell them what you have, and what you want to achieve, along with how much money you have to spend. They will fill in the gaps and let you know if your goal is reachable with the money you have to allocate towards the project.

Your terminology is wrong, that's where the confusion is. You're calling the front of the carb, the back. Maybe the person who did it was thinking they could get more air through the carb by doing that, I don't know. Never seen it done before, but a pic of what you're looking at would be nice

I always mounted mine on the side of the helmet using the velcro. To set my camera angle up, I would set my helmet on my seat facing the handlebars, and move the camera around until I got the bars in the middle of focus and straight across...then stuck the velcro in the best spot.

lol, that's not true, I never had any problems shifting a stock transmission while running a lockup. Maybe you have some worn forks or a bent shift shaft. Anything over 75-80 hp, you'll want a lockup I use R1 fibers and raptor steels in my clutch

I got a strong feeling Dave would have accepted the issues with the carbs had the engine been as advertised. Dave is not the complaining type. But once he found out the engine was NOT as described, the carbs were like icing on a shit flavored cake. If someone tells me I'm buying a "strong running engine and you will not be disappointed", I'll run it as-is before I go messing with anything, especially if it's what I'm looking for...There was no need to tear it down based off messer's ad. Hilarious trusted him, and got burned. The least messer could do is offer something other than "rounded up parts" for this BS. At least TRY, SOMETHING...the whole "you waited 2 months to tell me" is so shady and pathetic it makes me sick to my stomach. Did you ever think that maybe he couldn't physically do anything with the engine for a couple months? Have you never bought anything in preparation for a project? This messer guy is a real piece of work

Here is what was advertised, and a link to the ad. Dave bought just the engine. If this guy just recently went through the engine, he had to have known it wasn't a 4mil, how can you not? http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/995997 01 Yamaha Banshee Clean Title 4mil Crank 70.45mm Big Bore Cylinders Shaved Head .40thousands Polished Clutch Cover Chrome FMF SST headers and Power Core II Silencers New Pistons, Rings, Clutches, and Crank Seals installed bout two months ago 34mm Kehin PJ's Carbs Super Strong running bike you will not be dissapointed

If you aren't drag racing, I'd go with the keihins. I think they'd be a better fit for a trail/duning machine. I love my lectrons on my drag bike though, I've had zero problems out of them. They came from packard and are gravity fed. I've heard and seen some of people's horror stories, but they have been an excellent carb for me on my setup, extremely quick and easy to tune. But, like mentioned before, everyone has their own preferences.

I do the same as koolguyson. I used to only put it around the crank seal until I had my first leak through the keyway. Oil CAN get past it and it'll blow smoke like a freight train

Where and how? I've never seen it cost less than 40 bucks to ship drag pipes from UPS or Fedex with proper packaging. No offense man, but I've received packages from you before, the box had several parts just tossed in with no packing material or anything, stuff just banging around in the box. Maybe that's how you ship things for $15?? lol, stick em on ebay razor13, people will try to lowball you to the point it makes you sick. It's one thing if someone only has "x" dollars to spend, but some folks just want to get something for nothing

Tyler, I think Jared was saying his un-cut tires don't hook worth a damn, and was wanting info on how you cut yours so maybe he could cut his and get some traction

Put me in line too, lol, if it's available, let me know, send a pic or two to: [email protected] Thanks

I didn't have to modify anything, the pipes lined up great, no problems. Just had to cut two 2" long pieces of pipe to connect the female ends on both sets of pipes. You said they didn't line up at all, and that wasn't true. They actually line up pretty good. Just didn't want people to think that you couldn't put PT's with FMF silencers together, some folks take one person's opinion as fact without looking any further

Yes they do, you just have to think outside the box, make a little male connector for the two pipes since the head pipe and silencer both have female ends, slap a clamp around it, and you're done. I've been running them this way for years, works great, sounds good, performance is where it should be

Forget all the stock stroke or 4mil junk, call Doc Brown @ 911-88-1955 and he will hook you up. Ask for the fusion kit for the banshee. You'll be faster than any 4mil out there for less. It's the shiznit

Pick up a kit, it's cheapest that way. If you piece it together, you'll spend more on individual parts, assuming you're buying new. I highly recommend getting a fuel safety switch to go with your kit, a purge kit is also a good investment IMO Before spraying your bike, I highly recommend talking to someone who is familiar with nitrous and what to expect...it can be a blast in a good way or bad, really quick, LOL

If I remember correctly, it's a 4 jet spread for gas, 8 jet spread for methanol. On timing, 20 shot (total) or less, leave the timing the same as you would an all engine pass. Every 10 more hp you go up after 20, retard the timing 1 degree. (i.e. 30 shot - retard 1 degree, 40 shot - 2 degrees, and so on...) This was how I ran mine and it worked great. The recommendations I received came straight from nitrous express.

Yeah, and truth be told, a majority of the folks that have problems are the people that jump in head over heels and buy something they don't have a clue about...rather than start with the fundamentals and work their way up. Not trying to be an ass, just being honest

Yep, 3.89 @80mph is my best, several 3.90, 3.91's. I weigh in at a healthy 298lbs, LOL IMO, you should build a smaller bike, learn how to tune it and set it up for 300' drags, step up accordingly. Don't worry about a number right now, just focus on building a small drag bike and master tuning it. See how the bike reacts to certain changes, etc. There's a lot more to tuning than changing jets. Chassis setup, gearing, timing, tires, clutch spring pressure, lockup weight...it's endless. I've been strictly racing for 4, almost 5 years now and I'm still learning new things all the time. I just feel, that if you go into this with the mindset "I want a 3 second bike", then you're setting yourself up for disappointment, unless you know how to tune your bike to the track and have the HP and chassis to do it. If you DON'T know how to tune or maintain your bike, you'll be one of those that's tearing your bike apart after every couple races. (believe me, I know people that said I want to go "x" time, bought a bike that could run the number, but since they had no idea how to tune it, they blew it up almost every race). There are a lot of factors that have to be right for you to make a 3 second pass at your weight, unless you're running some gigantic engine, which will put you in the 10-15K range at least to get started (engine/chassis). Then you'll have a huge learning curve to pick up, really fast, or else you'll be replacing stuff as much as you ride it. I started with a 350 stock cylinder, then 4mil cub, then 10mil cub, and now 10mil DM. The knowledge I picked up from playing with the 350 carried over to the 4mil, and so on, and it made moving up in power easy because I knew what to expect, what to change, and how to get the results I was after... Some pics for your viewing pleasure, lol First bike - 350cc on gas Second build - 421 cub on gas Third build - 465 cub on alcohol Fourth build - 610 DM on alcohol

This is definitely a very interesting thread. Amongst the three paddle tracks I've run down here, it's the exact opposite of you guys' situation...I think this just goes to prove the fact that what may work for one, won't work for another...also proving every scenario is always a little different. Good info in here, and something to keep in mind when travelling to different places... Dave I. - I've had a tire slip on the rim, once, but never again...good thought though I just noticed in your sig, blanco, you're running a lightened flywheel...that could potentially be an issue as well. In some cases, the extra weight on the flywheel helps out of the hole

I agree, would be a great discussion!!! I too, leave in second, but I got a 10mil cub....it took several gearing and tire combos to find the one that worked for me, but that's part of the game!! Runs like a scalded dog now