bigboybanshee

I got to thinking after reading some of the other posts in here and there's a great point being made, I'm making my references from running the reeds on ported engines, one with a full out drag port and the other with a mild port job, and that IS going to make a difference in how much changing the reeds will make. The majority of my testing was done on the drag bike. I didn't think about it earlier, but it definitely makes sense. In the future I need to make sure I add that info or make note of it.

Where the heck are you buying your reeds from? New VF3's are $189

Porting is the way to go for a significant power increase. It sounds like the best place to go for portwork is Kevin Herr, real quick to turn them around and everyone seems really pleased with his pricing and work. Definitely worth the money spent to get porting. If I were you, I'd PM dlnoss on here and ask him which size dome he'd recommend you run in your head to keep your bike on pump gas. He is the man when it comes to that stuff, he knows exactly what you'll need. Extremely nice guy, great prices, and great service :beer: Also, porting DOES affect your compression. If your cylinders are hogged out, it'll drop the compression some from where it would be on a stock port. When getting a recommendation for dome size, be sure to tell whether or not it's ported, or going to be ported. On that same note, if you do end up getting portwork done, the person who ports the engine should recommend the dome/base gasket, etc. that would work best with their portwork/setup, and 9 times out of 10, they sell the domes too, and it'll save you some headache....

You will NOT see the same performance gains w/ stock ported cages over the VF2's or 3's. I've run all three, and the ported stockers were noticeably slower in throttle response, and power compared to the v-forces. Yes, the stock ported cages w/ new reeds (depending on what kind) WILL be an improvement over stock, but they are definitely no v-force setup. You get what you pay for w/ the stock ported cages. I personally didn't notice much difference between the v-force 2's and 3's, other than the 3's are much easier to change the reeds out, and they seem to have a slightly larger inlet. The 2's and 3's petals are NOT interchangeable.

lol, it was a legit question, you wouldn't have known if you didn't ask :thumbsup:

I agree w/ the above statement, and will add that the surface you ride on will also affect how your bike pulls. If one day you're riding on hard packed dirt, it'll probably hook pretty hard and feel faster, but if you run through some loose dirt, the tires will probably start spinning and bike doesn't pull as hard, hence, where you feel it's not making the same power.....just something else to consider...same would apply to wet or dry sand

Engine ice, all the way. You'll see at least a 10 degree difference in engine temps, I did in mine. I don't think the billet impellar is necessary as long as you don't let your bike get overheated. The advantage of the billet is it won't melt when your bike does get extremely hot. I've been running a stock impellar in my drag bike and trail bikes for several years now and haven't had any issues, but the drag bike only gets run for a minute at a time, and the trail bike has a temp gauge on it so I'll know when it's getting hot, and I can shut it off and let it cool down for a minute.... :shrug:

You don't have to have the engine ported to run an aftermarket head. The purpose of the head is to cool the engine better and you have the ability to change domes, which will increase/decrease your compression. Anything over 155psi you'll want to start running a higher octane fuel. You will notice a gain in power from just switching heads, but it won't be anything significant. You'll get more torque and cooler engine temps. Porting is what really wakes the engine up, you'll definitely notice that, lol

Thanks, yeah, I was looking for a sub amp. One thing I always liked about the old US Amps was that they were 1/4 ohm stable, you could crank out a lot of power from a little amp. Anyways, I appreciate you getting back to me, I'll do some thinking about the crank and will let you know

Hell of a guy, always comes through with quality parts and a good price. Thanks John :beer:

I know this is an old post, but do you still have this stuff? I've got a cool head, 4mil crank, and stock cylinders w/ plenty of life in them, all they need is a fresh bore and pistons. I'm only interested in the amp and crossover, what kind of power does the amp put out? I tried searching on google but didn't see anything for an Xterminator 50 Thanks

Since it's going to be a drag bike, I wouldn't go any less than +6 for the sand. +4 would be more duning friendly, but you said you wanted a drag bike, so the +4 would be wasting your time, you won't be able to keep the front end down, lol

K&T performance, it's a shop, located in Utah. http://www.ktperformance.com/index.php

K&T is a great place to call, very nice folks, they treat you like you're their only customer, even though they have thousands...and will get you your stuff back before it's out-dated, lol

I like the carbon fiber reeds, they give real crisp throttle response :thumbsup:

If you give a "general" idea of what you want tips on, you're more likely to get some detailed responses. There are thousands of "tips" that can be given on setting up a drag bike. What do you want to know, specifically?

Not sure, that's a good question for whomever cuts the domes for you :thumbsup:

If your problem is at WOT then I wouldn't change the needle settings at all, only the main jets. I would definitely leave the spark arrestors in there too, 2 strokes don't run like 4 strokes do, 2 strokes need the backpressure to run right, and the stockers may have been designed to work best "as-is" with those spark arrestors installed.

That's what I'm voting on!!!

Stock compression will vary depending on elevation. Stock for me at 400 feet above sea level is 120psi. When I ran 21cc domes in my NOSS head it bumped the compression to 150psi...21cc domes IMO are better categorized as safe for pump gas rather than saying it'll give you stock compression readings. 22cc domes should be closer to stock :thumbsup:

You probably won't notice much difference if any at all...I'm talking at absolute best maybe 1/2 to 1 hp max gain... You'll notice more gain from switching reed petals than you will porting the cages...just my .02

I'd run them, I had DG's on my first trail setup, they sounded good, performed well, and IMO an excellent woods pipe. If I were in the market to buy a set of pipes, they wouldn't be my first choice, but like mentioned before, if the price is right and you're replacing stock pipes, I'd go for it.

AMEN! I'll be damned if I'm gonna sink all this time, money, and tuning into a ride to hand over the tether, lol! I agree a bigger rider won't be AS fast, but there are ways for us to pick up lost time, we just have to set our bikes up different than the featherweights, and try harder. :thumbsup: I surprised a lot of people when i ran this on my 4mil earlier this year, several folks said because of my weight I probably wouldn't get out of the 20's, I'm #111, left lane. 4.134 ET, 1.54 60'

Is that for both cylinders or just one? At sea level, stock should be around 120psi

Stick with the stock carbs on your stock cylinders. If you go to a cub later, I wouldn't recommend anything smaller than 35's, which would be too much for an un-ported stock cylinder engine. Just my opinion